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Discussion Starter #1
new to ford here-got a 2000 focus se 2.0 sohc- dropped a valve on drivers end of engine- replaced cylinder head and piston and rod(damaged journal by not using rubber hose to protect threads and the threads scratched the journal and after a hundred miles or so it started knocking) ... so i replaced crankshaft with rod and main bearings it came with using new torque wrench. rods were28ft and i forget was mains were... while engine was still in car, using all cleanliness and precautions such as using rubber hose to protect threads and oiled everything up during install. to prime oil pressure i took spark plugs out and cranked engine for 15 seconds a few times. when i started it, only one connecting rod knocked but after about 30seconds-a minute the other rods started knocking. whats going on?
i checked oil pressure and as soon as engine starts its jumps to 80psi.

ive read the oil goes from the block into the crank and then to the rods. are my main bearings too tight and not letting oil get into rods?
my email is linking to my cell so i will be impatiently waiting lol. why is my oil pressure so high? what is it supposed to be at idle?
 

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Did you measure the bearing clearance with plasti-gauge or a bore gauge?

Sounds like the mains mat have been too tight and you wiped them out.

From the description you gave it sounds like you got a used crank and used the bearings that were originally on the used crank. That does not mean the clearances are correct. The bearing journals in the block can vary in size and what was correct in one block won't necessarily be correct in an another block.
 

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I'll throw this out real quick. Did your mains have oil holes in both sides or just one side? I've seen mechs install the side without the hole against the block(oil gallery side) and the side with the hole agin the cap. Some sets have holes in both sides so it don't matter. Both will fit either way. You are right the rods get oil from cross drilled cranks from the same oil gallery. I've seen such hi oil pressure that twisted the oil pump shaft off. Anyway whatever if it aint getting oil the damage is probably done if it ran too long rattlin' real loud. If you don't remember ya gotta look now. Good luck. Just for interest the tabs on both mains and inserts go on the same side and have to match up with an oil feed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
checked the clearance and it was fine! both rod and main's were within spec i cant rem the exact number but both near each other and i think near .04 mm. :( so this is good but now im out of ideas. yes i do remember i installed the main bearings with the wholes matched up. the main caps dont have an oil whole.
Does anyone have anymore ideas? i only let it run for like 30 seconds, changed the oil with 5w-30 and oil pressure went to 76psi. the journals and bearings all looked brand new. only the rods knock-not loud, but its obvious. should i blow compressed air into the crank and see if it comes back out where the oil pump pumps in oil? i made sure i marked the rods and caps to put them on the same rod in the same direction. help!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
checked the clearance and it was fine! both rod and main's were within spec i cant rem the exact number but both near each other and i think near .04 mm. :( so this is good but now im out of ideas. yes i do remember i installed the main bearings with the wholes matched up. the main caps dont have an oil whole.
Does anyone have anymore ideas? i only let it run for like 30 seconds, changed the oil with 5w-30 and oil pressure went to 76psi. the journals and bearings all looked brand new. only the rods knock-not loud, but its obvious. should i blow compressed air into the crank and see if it comes back out where the oil pump pumps in oil? i made sure i marked the rods and caps to put them on the same rod in the same direction. help!
 

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Since it's quiet, are you sure it's not cam knock? This is assuming you used a junkyard head. That might be why it's baffling you that the low end is all good but you still have a knock. I'm sure you put the rod caps back on in the right direction too- that typically pinches the bearing and the engine won't turn easily.

We don't have many people who spend so much time on SPIs. It's not a good engine which is why so many people swap out to Zetecs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
it has a brand new rebuild cylinder head that worked fine before. the crankshaft came as a kit with .01 oversized bearings. the clearances were within spec. the upper main bearings have a hole and the middle of the bearing has a cavity groove for oil to get by. the lower bearing is a full flat piece. oil pressure 80psi. going to try to blow into connecting rod hole with compressed air and try to blow through the oil galleys to the pump, maybe i have a piece of gasket or something. anyone know where to get a cheap sohc engine?
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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They're pretty hard to find as well.

you sure you put the head gasket on correctly? I know on some engines you can get it around backwards and plug the galleys.

Also, did you make sure to clean out the intake manifold? I'm sure you did, but I want to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
lol yeah i wish i could swap it but i read i would need practically everything. the thing is. i got this for 400 cuz it dropped a valve, so i put a new/rebuilt cyl head, connecting rod and piston. BUT i did not put hose on the rod threads like a jackass and it came in contact and put a little itty bitty nick in the crank(i found this out after i took it apart again...), it ran fine and i sold the car for 2000. but after two hours of highway driveing the lady calls me saying it has an engine knock and i said you bought it as it nothing i can do. so she has these two thugs come to my house threatening me they will call the cops because i jumped the title and that i need to give the 2000 back. i said go ahead call the cops, jumping a title in jersey is a slap on the wrist. but i went inside and my dad came out and gave him a check for 2000!! i could have killed him. the people didnt even have the car or title with them-they could have just ran away with the money! [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]g people. but anyways when i got the car back ::thank god:: i replaced the crank with a crank kit with main/rod .01 oversized bearings. i replaced it when the engine in the car suspended on one end with a brace. rather an easy job. torqued everything with a new torgue clicker wrench. cleaned oil pump gasket off(for the most part i think) replaced with a new one. primed it by taking spark plugs out and cranking the engine for 15 seconds 4 times. as soon as i started it, it sounded like just the 4th cyl was knocking then after about 30 seconds maybe? another one, then another and i think all four are knocking now. wtf! ahhhh! im a 25 year old student living with parents and cant just junk it cuz i need the money... im not going to downsize the bearings becuase when i checked it they were within spec. im thinking i got some debris in the oil system from when i scraped the gasket off. ugh i cant wait to find out. BUT how do i do this as the crankshaft has a hole that lines up with the block. do i align that hole and take off the connecting rod and blow air into the rod hole as the crank hole is lined up with the block hole?
 

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Well, a little scratch on the crank isn't going to cause those sorts of problems.

You did tighten the rods in 2-3 steps right? The same with the mains? About all you can do is pull the pan, pull the rod bearings and see what's up. If it's affecting all 4, then it should be fairly obvious. The hole should be lined up because it should be in a groove in the mains to allow oil to flow through. Unfortunately, air is going to escape through other paths- gap for example.
 

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I've nicked cranks before and always was able to take a small whetstone and work the nick off with no bad results. Pull the rods at least and mike the journals and check the back of the inserts to see if you got what you think you got. They are marked with the undersize whether in mm or in thousandths and compare with what the journals are. I've seen boxes with mixed up inserts and mains before. If the undersizes match the crank I guess it possible to have something plugged but if the mains were oiling the problem is between the mains and the rod bearings. Good luck[wrenchin]
 

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You've got oil pressure (you stated 80 psi) at the oil pressure port in the block main oil gallery. It would make more sense to simply remove the oil filter and supply oil/air to the oil filter threaded fitting and check for oil/air "leakage" at each of the main bearings, at each of the big end bearings and at each of the piston pins. Are you sure that you've got the big end bearings orientated correctly (unless I've missed it, you haven't mentioned them)?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if their was oil leakage wouldnt that cause low oil pressure instead of high pressure?

i did line up the main hole with the block and blow compressed air into it, and air did come out of the filter threaded pipe, but it did sound like air was comming from other places but it was hard to hear and couldnt feel the air or anything, maybe it was just noise of the air passing through the crank i dont know, dont know what to really make of the air test.

and tighten the caps in 2-3 steps? i just snugged them alternating and torquing lightly each time until the clicker wrench clicks..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
if their was oil leakage wouldnt that cause low oil pressure instead of high pressure?

i did line up the main hole with the block and blow compressed air into it, and air did come out of the filter threaded pipe, but it did sound like air was comming from other places but it was hard to hear and couldnt feel the air or anything, maybe it was just noise of the air passing through the crank i dont know, dont know what to really make of the air test.

and tighten the caps in 2-3 steps? i just snugged them alternating and torquing lightly each time until the clicker wrench clicks..
 

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All the plain bearings in the engine "leak" oil. The oil that leaks from all the bearings along with oil that is supplied to any oil jets (sprayed) and oil that is "splashed" or "dripped" onto various parts all drains by gravity back to the sump to be picked up by the pump again. For a given engine and assuming a steady state RPM, the amount of oil that leaks from the bearings will be dependant on the actual oil viscosity which is affected by the oil temp. Hot, less viscous oil will leak at a higher rate out of the bearing than cold, more viscous oil. Cold oil.......higher oil pressure (less flow), hotter oil.......oil pressure decreases (more flow). As you found out, with a direct reading pressure gauge you can see this. You still haven't talked about the big end bearings.......I saw a photo of a SPI con rod which showed, what looks like, an oil gallery in the rod, which means the crankshaft is supplying pressure oil to the rod for the piston pin.
 

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I'm just going to throw this out there.. Maybe your bolt's are lose in you torq convertor? OR something in your clutch is screwed up? I'm not sure what you have for a tranny but I have heard those same sounds come from a cracked fly wheel. It will also make a knocking sound if you forgot to tighten the bolts up on a torq convertor..
 
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