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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, just typing this up so that I can let it off of my chest a bit and let everyone know the type of weekend I had. First I work 6 days a week so from Saturday afternoon (around 3pm) and Sunday is my free time. So, I figured this weekend would finally be the weekend that I take the time to put in my cams, cam gears, UDP, and tune. Also, since I live in an apartment and since I would like help during this I brought it over to a friends house, who has a garage, and worked on it there.
After taking off the old cams and cam gears, and also putting the new ones in, we squeezed the timing belt over the new cam gears. Everything up to here went pretty damn smooth, no big problems, nothing broke, it was going good. Well once the timing belt was off my friend, along with myself, was pumped and he said that he would tap the ignition a few time to tighten up the belt. Oh [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]* , the TDC tool wasn't removed. So......several upon several hours later....after removing the oil pan...and after bending the now bummerange shaped TDC tool into a smaller S or squiggly shaped TDC tool we are finally able to remove it from the block.
Now after about 1.5 hours of changing out the old cams and cam gears and about 6 hours trying to fix this big F-up we finally are back to where we should be. So now, tired and frustrated, we finish checking everything and toss on the UDP and put on the new sized serpentine belt. Again he, and myself, was exited about starting it up again to see how it starts up. So........click..click....thud......Oh [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]* all we did was toss on the UDP the FN bolt either wasn't tightened up or it wasn't on at all I don't really know all I know is that a $170 UDP is on the floor about 3 or 4 feet away from my car. So.....now around 1am in the morning (I have been up since around 6am the previous morning) I put on the original crank pulley and original serpentine belt back on the car, oh and the bolt also this time, and get ready to start the car again.
So now between 1:15 and 1:30 am we start the car for the third time. Well...it ran like crap. It wouldn't even start up without running the throttle a bit so we start messing with the timing and finally we get it to where we can start the car (still having to play with the throttle but not nearly as much (It sounded like an old hotrod gurgling through the exhaust at idle almost like it wanted to die until the throttle is played with). After this it is now around 2:30am and we have to call it a night.
So now it is about 11 am we have been awake for a couple hours ate breakfast and ready to get the SOB running properly or at the very least better than where it was. So after a lot of playing with the cam gear settings and several hours later it is running pretty normal. The car bogs a little bit at idle but nothing like the night before and with the tune in the car runs alright. I know that my timing is jumped due to how it runs at idle and how since it isn't running as strong as it should with my foot on the peddle. So some time this week or this weekend I will have it apart again to get the timing corrected so that it runs how it should.
If there is anything any of you would like to worn me about with timing, since I will be doing it again some time this week or if you have any idea where I can get a nice underdrive crank pulley for a decent price, since I am currently atleast $170 in the hole for the pulley alone, plus the oil pan gasket, plus the misc stuff I had to by due to the countless F-ups. Well thats about it. Let me know if you have any questions or if you just wanna laugh at me, that'll be cool to.
 

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Sounds like tons of fun look on the good side it's running again can't say that much about my POS

Take your time the next time .. in the long run it will save time im the same way i get all crazy and [:)][:)][:)] up more shit in heat of the action
 

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Be sure that the crank is at TDC on #1 when you go back in to get it dialed right. There are a couple was to do this. The best way--- Get a crank timing pin or make one. P.M. me and I`ll walk you over that. 2. Get a small(diam. but at least 12" long) wooden dowel and remove #1 spark plug insert the dowel and by hand rotate the motor until it is at TDC on the compression stroke-There is a little bit of play at the top of the stroke try to find the middle ground for it. You will have to have the valve cover off for this to look at the cams and have the cam tool ready for the back of them. But remember to turn your cam gears back to 0 degs. Then with the crank at TDC if the cams are way off remove the belt. Make sure you dont move the crank (that is why I like the pin) and with your gears on 0 degs. and the cams and crank in the right spot slide the belt back on. That should help ask for more
 

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Discussion Starter #5
We did that it, but I am not sure that in all the confusion and frustration if the timing got jumped at all. With the cam tool in (the metal bar) how should the cams line up in the back (since the line in the back of the cams is not in the direct middle, there is a short side and a longer side). Also, when you tighten up the slack in the timing belt after putting it back on it seems like one of the cams move some to make up for the slack that was taken up (it seems like it is the intake side that always turns).
 

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I believe what you are saying is the slot at the back of the cams is off center. They are and the bar should slide in freely with the slots and the same level as the head(were the cover goes on) I believe the short side as you call it will be on top. Also relax the adj. cam gears so they can move and not the cams Don`t remove the bolt just slight pressure. This should put you at TDC when you slide on the timing belt. Our cars kinda suck for timing since we have no keyway or pin on our cams for the cam gears.
 

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Dragon Warrior
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I have a UDP that I am not using and probably wont. It is a brandnew OBX I am not if it will work with your belt.

You can have it but there is one catch, I am in Germany and the UDP is in chicago. Now once I get back in 3 weeks (maybe longer depending on my german boss) I will drive it to you as an excuse to go visit a friend or 2. If you want it before then I might be able to get my roomate to ship it to you.

send me a PM
 

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FF's Night Security
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I think if you left the bar on like I think you said right? I'm pretty sure you will never get it running the best it could have. Would'nt the cams bend, break, or warp? or the lower timing gear in the block. The timing belt is probably streatched too. Good luck I think you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With the bar in the back of the cams, as long as the gears are loose, there won't be any pressure on the cams. I was wondering, in the directions that I have on it form ALLDATA.com it says to have the cam gear bolts loose when you tension up the timing belt the cam gears will shift and not the cams (like it did when I tensioned them). My question is the aftermarket cam gears have 2 holes in them, there is a piece of metal on each cam that sticks in one of those two holes to keep the cam gears from sliding out of time, if I have the cam gears loose enough to where those cam gear holes are empty when I tighten up the tension on the timing belt how will I get the cam gears back into place so that I can tighten them up? I know my question sounds a little confusing but if you have installed cams and gears before you will or should understand when I am talking about.
 

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FF's Night Security
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craze173 said:
lol, yeah he's alright as long as you keep sending smirnoffs his way he's pretty damn funny too.


I think you just answered your question to why everything went wrong[8] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking] [drinking]
 
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