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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings! I’m probably going to have to junk my 2002 ZX3 with a little over 200K if I can’t figure out how to fix this car. In Illinois you have to have your car inspected every two years, and mine is due 8/31. Otherwise you can’t renew your license plates. I have lots of new parts on it including the catalytic converter, and exhaust system. I’m very close to my ”how much do I want to put into this car money wise”? Now I have an emissions problem. Codes 1506, 1451, and 0442. From these codes, does it sound like individual parts that need changing? I consider myself fairly mechanical other than main engine repair...
I’m really wishing someone would just come to my house and fix it for me, but that’s probably not going to happen...
So the alternative is going to be watching You tube video’s and soliciting the advice from fellow owners who might have the same car and could give me a step by step to check? The P0442 I hear cloud be “the gas cap...and don’t buy aftermarket.” I looked at a video on the IAC R&R. Going to be fun...Would you (the reader) consider that’s my P1506 problem?
Also the P1451 I’ve been told by my neighbors mechanic son, is under the tank in the back.
Thanks to all and any advice..
Kevin
 

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Go after the 1451 code. It may or may not fix the 0442 and for sure will probably fix the 1506. The IAC has messed up and gotten way out of it's nomal range trying to lower the idle from the leak. Leave it alone.
 

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Back from a 3 week work trip... is the evap canister vent control on the charcoal canister on the rear axle or the firewall in the engine? The replacement part I look at on-line doesn’t look like anything I can get at on the canister. I tried turning one of the pieces with a hose attached and it moves but I’m hesitant to force anything and it’s no co
I go out... thanks much for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I'm happy to report that I have success with my 2002 ZX3 with over 200K and my emissions problem! AMC49 I am very grateful for your help. You were EXACTLY right about going after the 1451 code. With that fixed, the other codes have also disappeared.
After lifting the back of the car, I could see better as to what was connected where. Wish I had a picture to post. On this side of the repair, it was very easy. I was too intimidated by the evap system and the check engine light. I replaced the vent solenoid that is located under the rear axle with one I got at the junk yard. I was able to test the junkyard solenoid with my multimeter to make sure it was "good". At least it had the right resistance. After getting home I applied 12 volts to the solenoid and I couldn't blow through the bottom section. After installing it, erasing the error codes, I'm now driving with no check engine light. I need to put about 100 miles on it before taking it to the test station on Monday, but I'm pretty confident I'll pass. And the part was so rusty looking, the check out guy told me I could have it.. At least I now know where to look for the 1451.
AMC49 thanks again!
R&R
 

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Before you get too happy keep in mind that the EVAP monitor (onboard test) takes several drive cycles to run. Depending on your driving it could take up to a week. If you have a scan tool you can check if the EVAP monitor is 'complete'. If the EVAP monitor is 'incomplete' the test has not run. In some states you cannot pass emissions with an incomplete monitor.

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Unfortunately my check engine light has returned. I have twice gotten about 30 miles before it “pops” on again. I reset the error with my OCBII . The first time I took the solenoid out and tested it with my multimeter (60 ohms) and with 12 volts, can’t blow thru it energized. The fact that it doesn’t reset the check engine light right away makes me think I have two problems..even though the solenoid came out of the junkyard...
You are correct about incomplete test in Illinois Paul. I was shooting for 100 miles on the odometer and several start/stops before going in...didn’t happen. Driving with expired plates starting tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No I only have the 1506 code. Engine idle is out of satisfactory specification. I also messed with the idle screw a while ago because the idle was SOOOOOO slow, I was aftraid it was going to die at lights. I took the "carb" off and cleaned the throttle body to zero difference.
Thanks for asking...
 

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No EVAP codes - and the EVAP monitor is complete?
Does unplugging the IAC change the idle speed?

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure what you mean by the EVAP monitor being complete, but will look it up.
Unplugging the IAC did NOT seem to make any difference in my idle. It's close to 1K unplugged, and I'm pretty sure it's the same plugged in...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Evap monitor complete.. You mean I've done enough start and stops, and enough miles correct? I don't know that it's complete because when the CEL comes on I assumed it was an evap problem...will check.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for that. How do I get it back to factory? As far as the IAC, I got it out, put 12 volts to it, and got no movement. I believe it's frozen..
 

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plugged in my OBDII and it says that my evap sys mon.OK
If the EVAP monitor is complete and you have no current EVAP DTCs then the EVAP system is working. Your current CEL is from the IAC code.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #19
can either of you confirm that 12 volts to the IAC will cause movement in the piston that I can see in one of the two holes? By the way for anyone reading this post, the way to remove the IAC is from UNDER the car. I saw a video on line of a guy saying it took 10 minutes and he wasn't kidding. The top hole is a little harder to get to, but definitely the way to go if you can get your car high enough. I have the front on 3 x12's, and the back is sitting on ramps. FWIW
 

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can either of you confirm that 12 volts to the IAC will cause movement in the piston that I can see in one of the two holes?
Yes but be sure you have the correct polarity at the IAC connector terminals. On your 2003 Zetec the battery positive is the GRN/YEL and the PCM (ground) is BLK/YEL.

Interestingly the older units from the late 80s and 90s (Im dating myself) could be opened up and cleaned - these later ones cannot.

Good luck
Paul
 
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