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Discussion Starter #1
So I decided to tell my girlfriend that I can get her zx5 back to decent shape (that was a mistake), and now I'm running into some issues. I finally got it to pass inspection (miraculously), but I need to figure everything else out.
The main issue has been an evap leak. It's been shooting a code forever now. Changing fuel caps didn't work, but I heard that only the Motorcraft does the trick, so I got her that, and changed her fuel filter. So far the code hasn't come back...but it's only been 30 miles or so. I do think that there is a leak in one of the lines by the fuel filter. It was patched with electrical tape that was coming off. Naturally I put new tape on and left it for another day [rofl] My main question on this issue is what is this line and where does it lead to?

It's the big coiled one that I'm asking about, and I think it's the one leaking.
The next issue is the car rattles more than an off road race car. Naturally I thought motor mounts. Dog bone looks okay. Drivers side seems alright, passenger side looks dry. Too dry. I mean I didn't expect there to be a lot of leaking, but it looks almost as if all the fluid has been gone for years.

Does this look normal to everyone? Or should I change it? If change, then what brand? I don't want poly's, just need something cheap, but I also need it to be smoother.
Last thing is the fuel injector. When I pulled the line, all of them seemed okay except for cylinder 3. It had..oil?

So did the connection:

Everything else was dry. The car does feel like it's majorly lacking power and even the new fuel filter made a difference. Could this be a sign of bad injection? If so, what should I do to fix it?
Thank yall!
 

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I'm guessing you replaced the air filter and checked the spark plugs as well. When we got our ZX4 it was weak, and I found the plugs were under-gapped. These cars also have issues with the coil pack cracking and seeping moisture, if you're getting misfires. Motor mount should be Motorcraft. That's one of the few absolute truths that this forum has established.

Toby
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I replaced the air filter not too long ago. It did have missing bolts on the air box, so I put those on, which helped a bit. The car doesn't seem to be misfiring...so I never messed with the spark plugs, but I can check them. The coil pack didn't seem to be bad though.
 

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I gotta say it, with a fix like that you deserve all the evap leak codes you can get...........not trying to be mean but less than awe inspiring there. Well, no, more like retarded. O-rings cost what? Fifty cents? Other things will work there too, I could see a fix lasting till the year 2500 with maybe $5 spent.

Change the mount, they do not have to have ruptured to be bad, often the plate inside breaks and rattle city. If you don't buy Ford OEM there you deserve the new rattling mount too, but I don't have high hopes based on the hose fix.

Clean the injector plug-in, the oil will conduct to short. You most likely at some time in the past held an oil can over engine and at some point it dripped to hit that connection. Rocket science...........sorry about the ribbing but you DO have it coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think there is a misunderstanding here. This is the second time I've gotten a hold of her car, and the first time all I did was change the oil and the air filter. So to clear confusion, it is not an o-ring. The problem is in the hose itself. It has what seems to be a small crack. Which is why somebody else patched it with tape. I had nothing else, no other car to drive to an auto part store and it was about to pour, so that's why I just redid the tape for the time being (to get home). My problem is, I don't know where that hose leads. I also don't know the exact part name, so I can't buy it. Which was my original question, where does that hose lead? If it's far above the fuel tank, I obviously have to drop it, but if at all possible I'd like to avoid that for obvious reasons.

I plan on buying a Ford OEM, just wanted to get opinions on whether people think it looks bad or not. It just seemed unusual to me. No need to be rude about that one. That is also why I asked the forums for which brand to use.

I cleaned the oil off, just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue. It seemed odd, and I wanted to know if there are possible causes for it that I'm unaware of. I have not spilled oil on it myself, but with the massive amount of oil leaks that car has, I imagine that spilled oil could very well be a possibility.

Also, it seems like you're really having a terrible day, I'm sorry buddy. Hope it picks up for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, I apologize if I seem like an idiot to you. I did try to infuse the original post with a bit of humor. I guess I'm just not as hilarious as I think I am.
 

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If for sure not one of the fuel filter lines then it goes up over tank to the carbon canister in back of tank. It snaps in place on tank top and no way to do that providing it can even be pulled over tank top. Tank squeezes against car so may not be possible. The fitting cracks because made of plastic and the rubber o-ring inside constantly trying to split it. Any temp change and the steel line wobbling in it does the same.

Depends on how long it's cracked, if only part of that first one inch after connection but before the corrugation starts then cutting plastic clean and two hose clamps and a piece of fuel line will cover the crack, only like 5 psi max there pressure. If extends to the corrugation even that can be fixed with two o-rings of correct size to fill the corrugation first two grooves and then the steel pipe slid up inside and hose clamp carefully centered over the two rings and also NOT OVERTIGHTENED, the corrugated will give and cut another leak. Only tight enough to secure not sliding off. I'd be looking to fix the end rather than yank new hose over that tank, you can easily damage like several other things hidden on top to make for a whole lot more grief.
 
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