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Discussion Starter #1
I need some suggestions. This problem started about 2 weeks ago and has only happend about 4 times, 2 of which happened today on my commute. The car will turn the engine off when I press the brake but I will still have full electronic power, my radio will still play the insturment pannel will still glow etc. Im gonna check my battery connections and the battery voltage when I get home but I want to get some input incase those are not the problem. Its an 03 zx3 completley stock with a 5 speed tranny and 80k miles. The only way I can tell it cuts off is the dome light will come on and I lose power steering....the cel is not on nor are any other unusual lights. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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does it just shut off when you dont give it revs in general or is only when breaking? Because i had the same type of problem, i would have to give revs while breaking so it wouldn't stall, the problem turned out to be a faulty iac valve(idle air control) so try and check that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It has only done it while im braking. I did notice that my rpm,s do drop a little more than normal....the only reason I didn't or don't think its that is because my cel is not on and my idle is not sporatic, but ill check it out. Normally when I've had an iac go out the idle will hang on start up and fluctuate at normal operating temp while idleing.....do u knw how many volts it should read on the power wire to the iac
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Will the computer store error codes even if the cel is not on? I checked my battery alt and connections. Im guessing its the iac but would like to knw if the computer has any info that might say otherwise. Its starting to die on me more regularly now....the rpms drop real fast down to 800 or less if I put it in nutral when coming to a stop...they drop pretty fast in between shifts too
 

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i was about to post this same similar question. I have a 01 zx3 automatic...starts,runs fine with no CEL's on. When i de-accelerate off like a exit ramp or something then hit the brakes it just dies but also dies by just hitting the brakes .Sometimes it will stumble like u bump start a stick shift & restart but most times it just dies.It idels perfect & gas milage & drivability are normal just dies sometimes when braking very hard. I notice it dies the same way i lose power stearing lol.. i just bump it in neutral & hit the key & it starts right back up & drives away fine its weird.

If i am iteling in park & rev it up real fast above 5k rpms & let off it will die but always starts right back up. i have no throtle hang up issues & the car is totally stock with around 83k on it.

I was told its probably the TPS sensor but would like to know before i spend $130 on a new throtle body & sensor (have to replace both on a stock TB with an auto i hear).
 

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Any chance either of you two have a very heavy keychain? We've had a few of these in the shop, can't duplicate at all (because the customer always leaves just the car key) when they return with their heavy keychain it's a "bingo" moment. The momentum of the keychain can shut off your engine!
 

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The only way I can tell it cuts off is the dome light will come on
I think your problem is most likely an ignition switch. Not where the key goes, but definitely the ignition switch mounted to the steering column itself. The clue is the dome light. It comes on when the key is turned to off- but you're not turning the key off.

i was about to post this same similar question.
Please do post your own thread. You might be on the right track with the TPS- however, I'm leery of that assumption before more information is found. TPS issues typically cause other problems during acceleration that you didn't mention. It is true, your problem, if your interior light is set to DOOR, and it comes on, might be the same thing, but you'll get better information in your own thread. Thanks for posting!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It was my IAC valve. When I looked in that thing boy was it gunked up!

The only reason I didnt think it was the ignition switch is that my rpms were droping really fast in between shifts or if I would shift to neutral before stopping instead of down shifting they would drop real fast to 1k then slowly creep down to 800 then 600 then kick back up to 1k.

I doubt your tps is causing your problem if your not having a problem at idle when you first start the car up. If yours is doing like mine I would check your IAC as well. You can take it off and clean the hell out of it with some carb cleaner and re-install and c if that fixes your problem. A new one is like 70.00 something so they are not much cheaper than a TPS. You can check your tps with a volt meter to see if its working properly.


Thanks for all the help and input everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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hey fastback....where do i find the IAC valve? ill give it a try for sure.any pics of what it looks like & where its located? Nope no heavy key chains for me lol only the ing & house key & the lock remote.

whynot....doesnt make much sence to have multiple threads for something that sounds like its the same issue & easier for others to reply to just one thread while helping mutiple people with opinions & thoughts.....just my opinion not being an ass or anything.
 

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I'm glad you figured it out. Cleaning IACs should be listed in routine maintenance after 100k miles or 5 years, but it's not. Why? LOL

Yes Dave it makes sense in most cases. When I wrote that I misunderstood which car the OP had, but I still stand by it. Sometimes the resulting problem is the same, but the cause is different. The clues will be different as well. Also, when an OP finally finds the solution to the problem, most people ignore everything after that so you don't get your best advice. I've been on here a while- I see it a lot. You might very well have the exact same cause for your problem- we'll see after you clean that IAC located under the intake manifold. Remove the battery, reach back under there until you find it, and you should be able to remove it- although you can't see it from above the engine.

This doesn't have anything to do with what you're experiencing, but do both of you have the improved lock cylinder design?
 

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This doesn't have anything to do with what you're experiencing, but do both of you have the improved lock cylinder design?
yeah not the exact same symptoms but pretty similar thats why i posted on this tread. i do understand what your saying as well & hope i didnt sound like a ass haha

What is this improved lock cylinder your talking about? yeah ill try & clean the IAC as im sure it couldnt hurt but yeah mine idles fine. Ill start a new thread & hopefully someone will have some other ideas to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No, I have the original lock cylinder still.


this is what it looks like, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=364411_0_0_


I dont think you will find a good picture of it attached to the manifold on the car because it is in a tight spot that your not going to be able to get a camera in. It is located on the underside of your upper air intake manifold below your throttle body. The easiest way to get to it from underneath the car!!!! If you do it that way you dont have move anything to get to it. I would recomend you buying an 8mm ratcheting wrench for the job it will make it much easier to do.

see if you can find it by the way it looks in the link, if you cant I will take some pictures for you but I wont be able to take them until saturday.
 

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00-04 Foci factory lock cylinders were faulty. This lock cylinder can lock up at any time preventing the key from turning. Once this happens, the lock cylinder will have to be drilled out to be replaced. Before it happens, it's simply a matter of taking the plastic covers off of the column, turning the key to ACC, and pressing a pin in to release the lock cylinder.

The difference is where the key hole is in the cylinder. If your key goes in off center towards the bottom of the metal disc then you have the faulty lock cylinder. If it goes in centered on the metal disc- then you're ok, it has already been changed.

Do some searches for "key won't turn" and you'll find multiple threads on the subject. There is also a How-To for the unlucky individuals who had to drill out their lock cylinders. Sometimes it will get sticky before it locks up, and sometimes it will just lock up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hey, send me your email address and I will email you a pic I found that shows where it is. I dont know how to upload pictures on this site
 

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hey, send me your email address and I will email you a pic I found that shows where it is. I dont know how to upload pictures on this site
Get a free account on www.photobucket.com, and once you put photos up there, then use the IMG tags to post it in the thread. PB has little selections that pop up below the screen for sharing on different profiles.
 
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