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Discussion Starter #1
Been searching around for a few days, time to post. A few days ago i replaced the left side hydraulic motor mount on my 01 focus and since the engine has been running horribly. At first it seemed like just a low idle, but the motor has no power when driving, has died on several occasions and is still running horrible. After driving it for an hour the CEL came on so i scanned it, came up with p0135 and p0141 o2 sensor heater circuit. The only thing i can think of is that we may have disconnected a ground that may have been under the motor mount. What im looking for is where any important ground wires are on that side of the motor and what else may have gone wrong. At the time the throttle was sticking in WOT position so i used some MAF cleaner on the spring on the side of the TB and two small sprays on the butterfly to clean the edges of it. My brother told me that an o2 sensor problem shouldnt make it run rough and die but it would probably be a vacuum leak. Any help is much appreciated, BTW i like what you guys have done with the forum; looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
149k on the chassis, motor replaced 3 years ago, now it has 120K on that, and trans replaced a year ago now that has 105k. all work done by me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it takes like 30 seconds to get to 45mph, it ran fine before i did the motor mount. the motor mount shook the car so bad we parked it for about 2 months before buying the mount and swapping it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
just went outside and pulled battery lugs for 30 mins and started it and drove it after i replaced them on the terminals and it has a REALLY loud squeak coming from the passenger side of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ran it again with new gas in it, added half a bottle of sea foam to 7 gallons of gas and drove it for 20 minutes. it hit red on the cluster temp guage. still has no power under accelleration. checked o2 sensor wires and they are all attached and still plugged in and what not. would an engine component from the belt side like a coolant pump or powersteering pump be robbing all of the power? it seems to idle fine but dies if you let it sit in D with foot on the brake.
 

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this thought just came to my m,ind that when i lifted the motor 3-4" to remove the motor mount i may have inadvertantly pulled the CV joint out of the transmission enough to make it run rough under power in gear. the slow throttle response and the rough idle when it is in gear with my foot on the brake is what led me to beleive that. Now how would i check to see if it is in all the way?
 

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ran it again with new gas in it, added half a bottle of sea foam to 7 gallons of gas and drove it for 20 minutes. it hit red on the cluster temp guage. still has no power under accelleration. checked o2 sensor wires and they are all attached and still plugged in and what not. would an engine component from the belt side like a coolant pump or powersteering pump be robbing all of the power? it seems to idle fine but dies if you let it sit in D with foot on the brake.
Well , from your description I would say a water pump, since it almost overheated. After it cools off, remove the serpentine belt and start the car. See if the squealing goes away. That way you can narrow down the sound. Only run it for a few minutes. It will over heat, not turning the wp. Turn all the bearings by hand, wp, pwr steering pump belt idler and tensioner. See if any are rough. Running like crap, clean the MAF. Double check for vacuum leaks.
Pull the spark plugs and look at them, any of them wet, not firing ? When was the last tune up ? , FF , AF, plugs and wires ?
And if you pulled the axle out it wouldnt drive. And most of the tranny fluid will run out the hole. check your PCV system, on the Zetecs this is a common problem, Hoses get soft and will collapse at idle vacuum. Just a few ideas, you`ll get some more, I will check back tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, that gives me something to do tomorrow during the day. can i just spray carb cleaner on the vacuum hoses like i would any other vacuum problem? i have not tried that yet since i usually just spray water, but figured that may mess up components. i will pull the MAF and spray that down good and let it dry before i put it back in. and i havent pulled any spark plugs or considered any kind of cylinder problem since im not getting a code for that and i tried unplugging individual injectors to find out if one cyl wasnt running right but made the normal changes in operation when i did so. i didnt have any trans fluid in the driveway after the mount swap. I changed plugs, filters and main engine components when i swapped motors 3 years ago.. it is not the zetec, but the 2.0 sohc SPI, but will double check the PCV hose and maybe just go grab a new one since they are like 10 bucks. once again, thanks; i've been waiting for a response as patiently as possible. but it is like waiting for paint to dry since i cant figure it out.
 

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I changed plugs, filters and main engine components when i swapped motors 3 years ago.

How many miles since the swap. I usually change my FF every 7500 - 8000 miles. I have a K&N AF which I clean very often. And I run copper plugs so they get changed around 10 -12k. I also run Auto Zone wires, with the life time warranty, I take them back every year for new ones. If you have platinum plugs you should be good. Also I have tried spraying carb cleaner , looking for vac leaks, but not with much success. Just got to get in there and really look em over.
 

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The water pump is driven by the timing belt on the SPI.
Remove the serpentine belt and start it and see if the sqealing goes away. That could narrow that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Somehow the rear o2 sensor plug must have contacted the exhaust. The connector was melted together. How will I know if that plug is faulty? Is there some kind of test I can run on the o2 sensor? Unplug it and run it should it run normal with a different cel?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don't even know if I think the o2 sensor problem is what is causing the loss of power, kinda placing my bets on that being a vacuum leak.
 

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A "whiff" of starting fluid is great for finding vacuum leaks, but it's a LOT more hazardous to use than your carb cleaner trick...

wear glasses in case a stray spark sets some off, and don't use too much at a time...

Three years is a LONG time to go without replacing any of the "tune-up" items, but with the sudden onset of the issue that's probably not the cause - HOWEVER, the "plug check" is a std. first step, along with the hints mentioned for checking out your noise issue.

Checking the grounds & their connections, checking the wiring to that O2 sensor, with moving the engine for the mount job something not in the immediate area may have been "disturbed" or damaged...

Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
im going to do what noone who had this problem before did.
Here is what it was...:

Ignition coil needed to be replaced.
I threw a set of wires in while i was at it after we knew it was fixed. The noise on the side of the motor is the pulley on the tensioner. It over heated because it was missing about 4 cups of coolant.

Now when someone searches P0135 and P0141 they will have something to check.


i used a timing light on the spark plug wires to figure that out.
 
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