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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some may have seen my post about the engine taking a dump on my 2.0 2000 spi focus. I decided I want to try and rebuild the engine myself. I might as well since its apart and out. I found the pistons online for under $200 and the head rebuilt with a 2 year warranty on ebay for about $300. I need to know a few things before proceeding.

1. How do you press the rods off and new pistons on ?
2. How much torque do I use when attaching the rod and bearing back on the crank? (Is there anything else I should know here as well)[scratch]
3. Do I need new bearings?
4. If the cylinders look in good shape do I have to hone them?
5. Is it even wise to attempt a rebuild without experience?

Engine had less than 80,000 miles on it before valve seat fell and killed everything.

Thats about it. I have worked on cars doing various things over the years. But have never attempted a rebuild.

[target]
 

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hmm sounds like a good deal though where did you find pistons for our engines? and the head rebuilt for $300? im assuming that it uses oem parts? as for your questions you might want to wait till jeffescort comes in herehe might know...
 

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as for your questions you might want to wait till jeffescort comes in herehe might know...
[wave]

Well for a total of $500, you should beable to find a running complete long block with a 30 day warranty from a salvage yard, just drop in and go.

[hah] Now delete your extra double post.
 

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[wave]

Well for a total of $500, you should beable to find a running complete long block with a 30 day warranty from a salvage yard, just drop in and go.

[hah] Now delete your extra double post.
I don't think you have priced spi motors lately. They are $900-$1700 dollars used from a junk yard.

To the original poster: I recently put a crate motor from Pep Boys in my car for $1950. It came with a 3yr 100,000 mile warranty. It was made by ATK which also supplies ford with crate motors. Pep Boys was $400 dollars cheaper than everybody else.

By the time you get all the machine work, buy gaskets, buy a rebuild kit $1950 is actually a pretty good deal. Also if you rebuild it yourself you will have no warranty and on SPI motors that are known for dropping valve seats a warranty is a good thing.

Also make sure you clean out your intake manifold before you reinstall the new motor or you will end up sucking valve seats into your new motor!!!

Here is a link to some useful info and some cool pics of my blown motor:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171133&highlight=spi+shortblock

Here is a link to the valve seat problem:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb90336.htm
 

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zetec swap!!!! lol.
 

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I did find a Zetec for $315 with 95k on it at jerry's auto salvage:
http://www.jerrysautosalvage.com/jerrys-auto-parts-search.htm

And Rick's Auto Parts have them starting at $450 up to $650.
http://search2525.used-auto-parts.biz/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Could'nt find any SPI's. But my last Escort SPI was under $350 for 60k miles.
I don't see what your point is. For a FOCUS SPI motor from a junkyard it is $900-1700 based on mileage. Zetec and escort motors are a dime a dozen. There is a shortage of focus spi long blocks because of the valve seat problem and escort owners upgrading to the 2.0. Most of the time when the motor drops a valve seat the block and head both become unusable. So far Pep boys has not caught on to the shortage and their price is still reasonable.[burnout]
 

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so hows this, ill trade my running spi for a rebuilt svt... haha
still thinking about rebuilding my spi according to the last post i did in the 99 escort thread i think
 

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Only problem with a zetec swap is that you need more than just a motor. I looked at doing a zetec swap but it would have been very expensive to purchase basicly the whole front end of a zetec focus. And you still have a used motor with no warranty. Not to mention the keys, computer etc. ATK and Pep boys have both said that the new valve seats they use no longer have the problem of OE Ford SPI motors. Changing the motor out was a big enough job without all the hassles of aquiring and changing to a zetec. My new Pep Boys(ATK) is running like a charm and has about 2500 miles on it. I got 34 miles to the gallon on a trip to Nashville last month.[:)]
 

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There is a shortage of focus spi long blocks because of the valve seat problem
The older CVH's, 1.9's also have the same problem, but it did'nt start showing up as much untill later year's like 96, just so happen when EGR became the norm. But it does seem worse in the Foci for some reason.

and escort owners upgrading to the 2.0.
When the Escort owners swap out there 1.9 for the 2.0, they use the Escort SPI and not the Focus SPI. The Escort SPI is a drop in and go, while the Focus SPI has some differences making it a harder swap. So we cant be blamed for the shortage :p

I guess my point is I'm spoiled, I've bought 2 2.0 SPI's for around $300, a Zetec with low miles for $275 and a SPI head from a U-Pull for $30.

And it might be possible to run a Zetec off the SPI ECU and harness. After all, I made a Zetec run off a 1992 1.9 ECU and harness. Ran pretty damn good to.
 

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When the Escort owners swap out there 1.9 for the 2.0, they use the Escort SPI and not the Focus SPI. The Escort SPI is a drop in and go, while the Focus SPI has some differences making it a harder swap. So we cant be blamed for the shortage.
Agreed.. however some escort owners use the focus shortblock which is a direct bolt in as far as I know.

I've bought 2 2.0 SPI's for around $300.
I'm assuming these were escort spi's. I called about 20 junkyards and they immediately knew about the shortage and said they get calls everyday for the focus spi motor. They would not lower there prices because they know they can get what they are asking.

And it might be possible to run a Zetec off the SPI ECU and harness. After all, I made a Zetec run off a 1992 1.9 ECU and harness. Ran pretty damn good to.
I'm sure this is possible but it would not be easy and would probably set off all kinds of CEL's. Hats off to you for making it work with your 1.9 ecu.
 

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Agreed.. however some escort owners use the focus shortblock which is a direct bolt in as far as I know.
I dont know of any Escort owners that have used the Focus SPI Block, head yes, but block no. I dont think there is mounting pad on the back of the focus block since the foci uses the head for mounting.




I'm sure this is possible but it would not be easy and would probably set off all kinds of CEL's. Hats off to you for making it work with your 1.9 ecu.
yeah there would be a CEL since there is no IMRC, and the Cam sensor timing signal might be off, forcing the ECU to fire the injectors in batch mode, not the end of the world.
But if I could save about $1000 only to have a CEL on I would. Plus no worry of valve seat droppage. That if I dont have to pass emmition inspections.
 

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Ya I agree you could probably save a little money by buying a used zetec and jerryrigging the computer. I just figured if I was going to spend the time to put a motor in I would want a new motor and not alot of hassles. I weighed the time vs money thing and I felt my time was worth more than the money I would save. Everyone is different and what right for one persons car may not be right for anothers. I also feel it is important to keep a car as close to stock as possible for parts availability and resale value. Just my 2 cents.
 

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We had our wagon for 2 weeks and the motor let go on us, the total cost of replacing it was $2300. The cheapest motor aroound (and the only one) was 1600 bucks the rest was labour (other stuff was repaired aswell). I had 4 shops calling around for a motor and believe it or not they all got back to me with the same motor, which was located at the biggest scrapyard we have up here. I will say though I wish I had waited because not to long after that I was offered a complete Roush turboed Zetec for $3000, from wiring to trans to shifter and guages [?|]
 

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i remember my escort days... i beat the snot out of my CVH motors but both held up... (two escorts both rotted away) just a little smoke on start (bad valve seals) but after that what a champ!

I got rid of them 'cause my friends started passing me water bottles and gum through the wheel wells while i was doing the breaks...

I also miss the winter fun in them though... freezing your ass off cause of the little missing ball in the t-stat housing but oh well.. sliding into curbs and thinking... mehh whats out of my pocket 700 bux? thank you ad's in the paper. and a managed 35-40mpg on the highway back and forth from school at the time.

anyone need a complete 91 valve head with cam and gears? all its missing is the cover
 

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i remember my escort days... i beat the snot out of my CVH motors but both held up... (two escorts both rotted away) just a little smoke on start (bad valve seals) but after that what a champ!

I got rid of them 'cause my friends started passing me water bottles and gum through the wheel wells while i was doing the breaks...

I also miss the winter fun in them though... freezing your ass off cause of the little missing ball in the t-stat housing but oh well.. sliding into curbs and thinking... mehh whats out of my pocket 700 bux? thank you ad's in the paper. and a managed 35-40mpg on the highway back and forth from school at the time.

anyone need a complete 91 valve head with cam and gears? all its missing is the cover
Because it really seems like you take care of your stuff...
 

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Some may have seen my post about the engine taking a dump on my 2.0 2000 spi focus. I decided I want to try and rebuild the engine myself. I might as well since its apart and out. I found the pistons online for under $200 and the head rebuilt with a 2 year warranty on ebay for about $300. I need to know a few things before proceeding.

1. How do you press the rods off and new pistons on ?
2. How much torque do I use when attaching the rod and bearing back on the crank? (Is there anything else I should know here as well)[scratch]
3. Do I need new bearings?
4. If the cylinders look in good shape do I have to hone them?
5. Is it even wise to attempt a rebuild without experience?

Engine had less than 80,000 miles on it before valve seat fell and killed everything.

Thats about it. I have worked on cars doing various things over the years. But have never attempted a rebuild.

[target]
know what your getting into its a pain without the right tools
1 cam shafts , lifters and rocker armrs-removal and installation
removal
disconnect the negative cable from the battery
remove the air cleaner intake duct
remove the valve cover
remove the drive belt
remove the flange bolts and remove the fulcrums rocker arms, lifter guide retainer,lifter guides and lifters.Keep components in there originally installed
sequence by marking them with a piece of numbered tape or by using a
suitable sub divided box(such as an egg carton). If the lifters are not marked
with color codes, be sure to mark each lifter so you know which end faces the front of the engine, since you must reinstall the lifters so they rotate in
the same direction they originally did.
remove the ignition coil pack
remove the timeing belt
pass a rode or large screw driver through one of the holes in the cameshfaft
pulleyto lock it and unscrew the sprocket bolt. Remove the sprocket.
remove the two bolts and pull out the camshaft thrust plate.
remve the cup plug from the transaxle end of the cylinder head.
carefully withdraw the cam shaft from the transaxle end of the cylinder head
Installing the camshaft and rocker arms is the reverse as the removal
2 Torque specifications ft lbs
camshaft sprocket bolt 77

cam shaft position sensor 180 in lbs

cam shaft thrust plate to head bolts 89 in lbs

crank shaft damper bolt 88

rocker arm bolt 18

ALL INFORMATION FROM FORD FOCUS REPAIR MANUEL

GENERAL type in line four cylinder, SOHC
engine vin code P
displacement 2.0 l (121cubic inches)
bore 3.34 inches
stroke 3.46 inches
fireing order 1342

3 yes
4 always
5 rebuilding an engine is easy if you fallow the repair maneul instructions.
 

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thermite + crucible = only thing to do to an spi
 
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