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Discussion Starter #1
2007 Focus SES, 2.0L Duratech, approaching 90,000 miles.

It has developed a droning vibration which from everything I've read points to engine mounts. So I'm going to replace all three mounts (left upper, right upper & the dog bone). I've ordered Motorcraft replacement parts so they should fit without an issue:
- 5S4Z6038CB BRACKET - INSULATOR MOUNTING
- 5S4Z6068AA HOUSING
- 8S4Z7M121A HOUSING - TRANSMISSION EXTENSI

I have a Haynes, & the official Ford Workshop Manual. I've read all the various how to guides on the forum and I've watched the various Utube videos so I think I'm ready. It seems pretty simple barring rusted bolts, etc. I'll see next Sunday when the repair is scheduled.

So far my only comments are:
- Why can't Ford call them engine mounts? I bought the parts from Andy at Village Ford, just gave him the VIN and said I wanted all 3 mounts. Andy had no problem identifying the parts. But I went to a local dealer and it took their parts counter man 25 minutes to locate the parts! Twenty-five minutes of me saying "No that's not it". Engineers should not be allowed to name parts.
- The Haynes is pretty good about the showing the procedures for each mount but the official Workshop Manual is not. Look up engine mounts and you find the procedure for the right upper only. I poured through engine removal procedure and found the procedure for the left upper. But I have yet to find the procedure for the dog bone. I think I've found the torque specs for the dog bone and it appears to be referred to as a "roll restrictor". I did not expect the manual to be as "friendly" as Haynes but I did hope for a decent index.

Oh well, we'll see how it goes. I'll update after the repairs.
 

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When you replace the dog bone roll restrictor, it's best to remove the bracket from the engine. Your Ford part might come with a new bracket. You might consider some blue thread lock (never use red) on those bolts when re-installing.

I would replace one at a time leaving the dog bone for last, and leave the nuts loose on the other 2 while replacing the dog bone. Then use a jack/block of wood to lift the engine/trans slightly so that stress is off the bolts holding the other 2 mounts. Line the engine up, lower the jack, and tighten. It's very important that you be sure that you are not pulling the engine up with the mount bolts. For example, on the transmission mount, I would put it in place, put the nuts on a few threads, then lift the mount so that it floats about 1/8" above the bracket. Now tighten the center bolt, lower the trans, and then tighten the 4 nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Torque Specs 2007 Focus Motor Mounts

Torque Specs 2007 Focus Motor Mounts__
FT/
LBS__DESCRIPTION__________________

35......Roll Restrictor Bolts
66......Upper Right Motor Mount Nuts
35......Upper Right Motor Mount Bracket Bolts
66......Upper Left Center Motor Mount Nut
35......Upper Left Motor Mount Bracket Bolts

Source: 2007 Ford Focus Workshop Manual
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
How To Replace Engine Mounts On A 2007 Ford Focus

Just an update:
- I replaced all 3 motor mounts
- Took about 2 hours
- Everything went smooth, no issues, it's actually a simple procedure
- It restored the "like new" factory ride
- Thanks to FocusFanatics, it's many articles/posts enabled me to diagnose the issue.
- Below is a link to a "How To" I created detailing the procedure I used.
- I used Ford parts and the part numbers are in the "How To".

How To Replace Engine Mounts On A 2007 Ford Focus
 

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Just an update:
- I replaced all 3 motor mounts
- Took about 2 hours
- Everything went smooth, no issues, it's actually a simple procedure
- It restored the "like new" factory ride
- Thanks to FocusFanatics, it's many articles/posts enabled me to diagnose the issue.
- Below is a link to a "How To" I created detailing the procedure I used.
- I used Ford parts and the part numbers are in the "How To".

How To Replace Engine Mounts On A 2007 Ford Focus

This is awesome. I will be doing the Right Upper Mount this weekend and Im excited. I will use your thread as a reference.

Thank you
 

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Why can't Ford call them engine mounts?
You have 1 engine mount, 1 transmission mount and 1 roll restrictor. Why would they call all 3 engine mounts when only 1 actually is?
 

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Milton! Absolutely stellar job on the detailed and well photographed write up. Good Job Sir!!! I did this job about two years ago, went the cheap route and now will be re-doing it with proper Ford parts this summer. Shudda done it right the first frickin' time!

Cheers!

Mike
 

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Thanks for the tips gents... I replaced all three engine mounts with OEM parts. Vibration went away... However, the vibration came back when in idle. When shifter placed in neutral vibration goes away. Has anyone had this issue; if so, how was the vibration issue rectified?
 

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2006 ZXW SE, starting its new life as a sleeper
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Recheck that the engine side one isn't bound up. In installing the other mounts, can get pushed to one extreme of its range of motion and act like a firm rubber mount rather than a hydraulic. This happened to me when I did the same repair. Theoretically the trans mount could do it too.
I got some improvement by loosening the 3 bolts of the engine mount and recentering it. It didn't totally improve because I have an aftermarket torque mount. Mine gets going badly at about 650 rpm, so it's only creeping or if idling when the engine is really warm, which I can live with until I get a tune for a higher idle.
 

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I changed the passenger side engine mount with an OEM part from 1AAUTO. This time it was the mount and bracket not just replacing the mount like I did before. I rechecked the "dog bone" and tightend. Rechecked the driver side also... Will check driver side for a third time...
 

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I recently tried replacing my “dog-bone” mount on my 08 Focus and I encountered a huge issue.
When I try breaking loose both the vertical and horizontal bolts, the rubber actually begins to turn with the bolt, so any further turning gets me nowhere. This seems to happen more than halfway through getting the bolts out, which makes this all the more annoying since I’m so close to getting them out.
Anyone have any tips on my next move? I managed to get as far as I did without PB oil, so I wonder if I just dunk those bolts in oil and use some brute force, I can get the job done. FWIW, I’m a beginner mechanic, so I don’t have access to tools like a torch or saw.
 

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The bolts are in captive nuts that are independent of the rubber, so don't sweat the spinning. I do remember that the dogbone bolts take WAY more turns than you'd expect, especially if you're doing it by hand. I'd say give them easily 100 turns before you declare them stuck. If they're turning at all, you're in business.
The other piece is that once they're free of the captive bolt, they can bind a bit on the rubber, so a little WD and a bit of pulling while turning can really help (provides you don't mind if the WD eats the old bushing.)
 

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Good to know that I wasn’t going crazy with the number of turns!
I’ll try WD and the pulling maneuver while turning to help with the bound rubber, I think that’s what’s stopping me from getting the mount off once and for all.
I’ll report back with pictures if I get the job done.
 

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So quick update: I tried blasting those bolts with PB and really getting into my turns with a breaker bar, but at a certain point, the rubber bushing around the cylinders begins to turn with the bolt, effectively stopping me from turning them any further. You can actually hear the rubber squish when I try to keep turning.
So, any ideas on what my next move should be? Again, I’m a beginner mechanic, so having a torch or saw that can cut through the metal aren’t in my tool belt.
If anyone knows any other simple measures that I can take, I’m all ears. Otherwise, I may just have to admit defeat or buy more advanced tools.
 

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If you have aspirations of being a DIY’er mechanic, buying the tools needed to complete your job is always a worthwhile investment - assuming it can be fit into your budget.
 

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So quick update: I tried blasting those bolts with PB and really getting into my turns with a breaker bar, but at a certain point, the rubber bushing around the cylinders begins to turn with the bolt, effectively stopping me from turning them any further. You can actually hear the rubber squish when I try to keep turning.
So, any ideas on what my next move should be? Again, I’m a beginner mechanic, so having a torch or saw that can cut through the metal aren’t in my tool belt.
If anyone knows any other simple measures that I can take, I’m all ears. Otherwise, I may just have to admit defeat or buy more advanced tools.
Disconnect the mount from the transmission. Drop the front subframe out from the car. Use a sawzall at the top and the bottom of the mount inside the bracket.
 
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