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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My 2000 Focus has started playing up and i'm looking for any advice please.

First occurrence - after parking up outside a retail park I got back to my car and it wouldn't start - engine cranked normally, no sign of flat battery, just wouldn't kick into life. The AA man couldn't work out what was wrong - he checked petrol by removing a hose somewhere(!) and petrol came out, the removed a spark plug and saw sparks firing when I cranked it. He plugged in his computer to try and read any engine codes, but couldn't connect to it from his van via bluetooth (never happened before he said). Anyway, he towed me back home and when I got there, the car started fine.

Second occurrence - a week later. Driving round a roundabout the engine died and the lights on the dashboard came on. I pushed the car to the side of the road and exactly the same symptoms as above. After about 30 mins of waiting for the AA and trying the engine it sprang into life and I carried on my way and it was fine.

Slightly concerned that this could happen on a motorway so I wondered if anyone had any thoughts as to what could be wrong? Friends have suggested the immobiliser but after a bit of googling, I can't get a definitive answer as to whether that can be bypassed.

Has anyone experienced this, or got any pointers for me to investigate?

Thanks

Al
 

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DTC P0606
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3,364 Posts
Not likely to be your immobiliser if the car cranks after stalling. The immobiliser certainty won't cause the car to cut out. Once the car is running, the immobiliser is out of the picture if it works like the NA model.

Sounds like you're having an electrical failure/intermittent short of some sort. Sometimes when the ECU (PCM) lor other critical system loses power abruptly, you get some of the symptoms you describe. Do you get a full gauge sweep when the car starts up again?

A couple of preliminary checks: Clean battery terminals of any corrosion, check terminals for tightness, check engine grounds, check any wires emanating from the battery posts. Check the coil electrical connector (if it's like the NA model) for loose wires. Sorry, we don't get the 1.8 in NA - 2.0 only.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply, i'll take a look at the electrics this afternoon. I'm pretty sure I didn't get a full gauge sweep when it finally started.
 

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Thanks for your reply, i'll take a look at the electrics this afternoon. I'm pretty sure I didn't get a full gauge sweep when it finally started.
Start with the simplest stuff first- like the battery terminals. Most of the time we find our problems there. Pay very close attention to the smaller ground wires that terminate at the battery.

It could be a sign of a bad ignition switch as well, but it all depends on how it dies when it dies. Does the engine die, but the dash lights and interior electronics stay on? Does everything go out, then come on again?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Checked battery terminals, both were tight but managed to tighten the positive terminal fractionally. The smaller wires all looked fine. I could only see one ground and that looked fine also, no signs of rust.

The engine died but the dash lights, radio etc all stayed on. It's only happened once (on the move) and as I was on a busy roundabout I didn't pay as much attention as I should've, but i'm pretty sure the red battery light came on when it died (like it does when the car stalls).

Probably not related but today I noticed my coolant level was way below min. When I unscrewed the cap to look inside the coolant reservoir, the pressure released and the central locking activated. After a trip to buy more coolant and the car had cooled, I opened the reservoir again and the central locking activated exactly the same as the previous changed.
 
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