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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is post 1 million for my issues I know sorry. Well I had a ford certified mechanic I trust look at the car he says he believes the factory wire from the alternator to the starter is grounding out as it felt "gummy" and i felt it as well and now my fingers smell of burnt something. and the wire was hot as [:)][:)][:)][:)]. ( sorry foul language I know ) so what should i do to fix this. My plan is this.



1) new starter
2) new wire from battery to starter
3) new wire from alternator to starter

Please someone re-assure me that this is all that could cause this and if not tell me for the love of god what else it could be im loosing it already I love my focus and i dont want any problems with it ( i have had a certified ford tech tell me it has wiring issues period its not just me ) I want my car back i miss it [bawling]

thank you for any help also he said the new wiring i did would not help me whatsoever due to the bad wiring still being there.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE I BEG OF U ALL HELP ME!!!!!!! Thank You.


P.S. He also said my main motor mount? the one up top is beat.
 

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I don't know about your problem BUT

DEMAND that all old parts be returned to you. I realize that there may be a core charge for the starter but try to figure out what the retail price is for a starter and if they retain the starter then you should get a small discount off the starter.

This way you keep them more honest

But copper is going for $2.00 to $4.00 per pound expect some resistance

It is possible that you have a bad crimp and the wire melted by the crimp
Then the battery clamp has issues too as corrosion seems to occur there often.

But you being in a state where salt is used on the roads sure doesn't do anything good
 

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Bad wiring sounds legit. You've gone through everything else, so if one of the wires smells like a flaming train set, run with it.

Your voltage wasn't terribly far off, and a shoddy wire would explain the off and on nature of your problem. Runs fine when cool, but loses voltage at temp.

I hope to hell that is the end of it for you.
Posted via FF Mobile
 

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The Red or positive wire that goes from the battery to the starter and on to the alt is a one piece. I bought the Motorcraft one from Rock auto. Been on there over a year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
iroc do you have the part #?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
and trust me that wire is not right if the wire itself is the problem or not i do not knwo but my fingers still hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
bump ^^ still need the part # please iroc i tried looking on rockauto could not find it also could anyone give me the bart number for both battery cables the one that is attached to the terminal and the one that screws onto the terminal please thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
kk ty ill call my dealership 2morrow and see how much they want and if its too much ill oreder from rockauto
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
? the last 5 inches or so b4 my alternator was 10 gauge wire is that factory? i have not ordered a new one yet but i just took mine off and the last 5 inches or so b4 the alternator are 10g wire is that normal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i am by far no expert in electrical but as far as i recall 10 gauge only goes up to 100 amps so if i have a focus with a 110 amp (factory amperage) alternator would the 10 gauge wire be a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok got the new wire it says 10gauge fuseable link on it and further more i installed it and then also installed a new set of wires for the big 3 as somehow they walked outta my yard along with the old battery cables this time i ran it all in black stranded 4gauge with aluminum clips and soldered them its all home depot had and did not wanna wait another week. well needless to say same problem so anywho some ppl said they have alternators full tested and with perfectly working voltage regulators? please pm me with the price and location or price with the cost of shipping to philadelphia pa. or if anyone has any ideas? the car runs the battery would not die unless u idle for awile sometimes faster than others but it also starts running real slugish when the load is on and it starts loosing voltage.
 

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Someone just replaced the factory fuse on a Duratec, and it was a 175 amp fuse built into the cable at the terminal end.

10 ga is not good for 110 amps, this site says it's good for 55 amps for chassis wiring, and less for power supply. The National Electric Code rates #10 wire as being good for only 30 amps- but that is for AC, and I would expect DC to have higher current capability with the same insulation. Bigger is always better when it comes to wiring- if it fits, and you can afford it. For over current protection, use a fuse, not downsized wire that will lower voltage due to increased resistance.

Current (amps) is translated into heat in the world. That's what blows fuses and trips circuit breakers. The smaller the wire is, the less heat and current it can take. Now it really gets screwy when you add ambient heat to the equation- like under the hood of a car, or in an industrial wiring scenario. Heat creates resistance, which lowers voltage, and lowers the power delivered to X device. Current remains the same, but the breaker or fuse sees higher current because of a higher ambient temperature. Does that make sense? That's why Ford would put a 175 amp fuse on an alternator that is only supposed to output 110 amps.

I'm sorry you're still having problems.

For the front engine motor mount, we have found that the Motorcraft mount is the only one you should install there. It costs more, but many FF's have had issues with the Anchor aftermarket mounts failing very soon after installing- and repeatedly. As far as the other mounts go, you can order the Anchor part for those to save some money- nobody has had problems with those that I know of. Check out Rock Auto's prices- but they don't carry the Motorcraft front engine mount. The other two are located on their site like this- lower dog bone= Engine: torque strut mount and Transmission: transmission mount. If you feel like rolling the dice with the deck stacked against you- all 3 Anchor mounts together from Rock Auto are less than the front mount from a local parts store.
 
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