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Discussion Starter #1
I am also having alternator and battery issues. My headlights always dim in and out and now twice my gauges will all drop as if my car is off and when I shift gears my car will shut off and not let me restart it. When this happened two months ago we replaced my battery and alternator and it did it again today. I have read a lot of post and it seems like I need to get a new harness for my alternator and or check my ground wires. The battery cables are brand new and from ford. Does any one else have a manual with this issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated, this is my only car and I work and go to school full time so I need it to run again ASAP.
 

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Check the pigtails going to the alternator, particularly the 2 small wires - they can break internally at that point then have intermittent contacting. They supply alternator field current and if that gets interrupted the alternator stops putting out power.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Check the pigtails going to the alternator, particularly the 2 small wires - they can break internally at that point then have intermittent contacting. They supply alternator field current and if that gets interrupted the alternator stops putting out power.
Thank you, I ordered a pigtail and hopefully that fixes the problem, if not we are going to check all the ground wires and the wires for the hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry for the lack of updates, yesturday we put in a new pigtail and alternator. I thought it was fixed but on the way home today it completely died when I shifted at a stop sign and would not restart. I checked the fuse box and a 10 amp fuse was blown. This fuse is for the battery charging. This is now the 2nd fuse its blown in a week. The first one was the 30amp fuse. I have called around different shops and it looks like I am looking at atleast spending $200 just to figure out why it is doing this. Oh I also replaced a ground wire yesterday. It connected from the engine to the chase. Any suggestions would be awesome.
 

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Summit Racing has the pigtail for like $4.95
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Summit Racing has the pigtail for like $4.95
thank you but I already replaced that. I thought it would fix the problem and I drove it today since the battery light finally turned off but that was a bad idea. It broke down on me yet again. This time the wipers turned on again and then my car died and wont even try to start. Even with the key in and turned all the way the car acts like its off and no key in the ignition. I am at a lose.
 

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check your owners manual for the rating on that fuse that keeps blowing
I am wondering if someone had changed it to get it going and used the wrong amp rating
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Checked all the fuses and all are what they should be. We know a guy that use to be a mechanic at Ford and he came to our house and looked at the car sine the car will no longer start. He said he thinks its the GEM power source. Its the main power source for all of the car and lives I believe he said under/behind the dash. The problem is he can not say forsure without testing it and cant test it without the proper tools. The part ranges in price depending on where I get it from.
 

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Please no. That guy did you no favors. Your symptoms have repeatedly shown to be a problem within the charging and starting system. No-Start conditions are often fairly easy to diagnose. Please get your car into the hands of someone who can properly diag a no-start condition.

Please do not go shopping for a GEM.

Let me go back and read this thread. I might post back with something more helpful soon or later today. Busy at the moment, sorry.
 

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OK. I get it. Money is tight and car is stuck at the house.

First piece of advise is to take out the battery and take it to a car part store for load testing, -it's free! If bad, you will have to buy another battery. DO NOT put a new battery in that car without having the Alt also removed and tested. If Alt also fails testing, time for another new Alt. Car part stores will often warranty the Alt you bought last time, so you should be able to get another one for free. If you get a new Alt (again!) have them test it before you walk out.

So you have replaced the Alt twice already, from a local car part store? You would NOT be the first person who has bought and replaced multiple Alts and soon after had them fail. Crazy, but it DOES happen.

Next, perform an extensive visual inspection of all wiring throughout the engine bay. Have a second person do the same thing.

Also, go back to page one of this thread and read the stories/threads that Sailor has links to. You can learn through their experiences.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you for your input. We went ahead and forked up the money and had it towed to a shop that specializes in electrical issues. I am really hoping they find the answer and it is a cheap fix. I am beyond broke lol. Gotta love being a college student.
 

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Excellent decision.

I would ask the garage that IF the Alt is bad, that maybe you should get that bad alt in ur hands so you can take it back to the car part store for a refund or free replacement
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you everyone for your input and help. Since I knew in the long run the shop would cost less then throwing parts at it, it got towed there yesterday. rexazz2 was actually on the right track. The shop checked all of my fuses and found about 4 that were not the correct size fuse and replaced them all along with some that had blown because of everything that was going on. They can not find anything else wrong with it so they are going to put it on I believe they said a dyno and have it run for several hours to stimulate the car being driven and see if it acts up. Fingers crossed that the fuses fix it all. The total bill as of now is $216 which isnt bad considering what it would have cost if I threw parts at it.
 

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$216 is a reasonably cheap fix IMO
Likely spent a couple hours checking and diagnosing

Often guys rob fuses from another location if they burn one up and never return things to normal


JIK you do
DO NOT "BOOST" or "JUMP START" ANYONE
IMO most of these small cars do not handle the electrical load well
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It actually wasnt bad at all since most of that cost was labor. It is $100 an hr for labor here. I wont jump start anyone, I dont even know what a boost is lol.
 

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It actually wasnt bad at all since most of that cost was labor. It is $100 an hr for labor here. I wont jump start anyone, I dont even know what a boost is lol.
jump start or boost is the same thing , people sometimes use one or the other term
 
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