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[rant] ok I have a problem with the focus.
whenever I am driving the car the interior lights will flash and the radio will cut out at times and other times the whole dash will go dead like the car has been turned off but engine still running. I'm still able to hit the gas with a little hesitation but it still drives and then the car will turn back on. It's like I just inserted the key into the ignition. This will go on a couple of times while driving and it's worse at night.

I had the battery checked and it's working fine.
I had the alternator check and its putting out 14 volts.
The positive terminal was bad and loose and I thought that was the problem fixed it and the problem went away and came back. Checked the terminal and the wires were tightly in there. But the positive cables are hard and actually feel like I'm bending tubing when I move them.

I have looked at the alternator clip and it is fine so I have that part for no reason. So I have already tried that.

Ford wants to charge me $150 to just look at the car but I cant justify that being car max only wants to give me 2k for the car. I hate dealing with dealerships because they always wanna sell you stuff thats not even dealing with the problem. So that's why I turn to you guys and I am hoping someone has had this problem before.

All suggestions are welcome!
 

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C2H5OH
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Would sound like a loose fuse and a loose connection at the gauge cluster possibly.
Check the associated fuses and make sure they seem tight and are not blown or corroded, clean and replace as necessary.
Pull the gauge cluster out and pull and reinstall the electrical connection. From the sounds of it that is a cure for the gauge cluster flickering and problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would sound like a loose fuse and a loose connection at the gauge cluster possibly.
Check the associated fuses and make sure they seem tight and are not blown or corroded, clean and replace as necessary.
Pull the gauge cluster out and pull and reinstall the electrical connection. From the sounds of it that is a cure for the gauge cluster flickering and problems.
checked all the fuses already they are all fine. if the speedo could cause the WHOLE car to lose electrical then damn. but non the less the speedo is plugged in all the way. how hard would it be to run new lines from the positive terminal to the relays and to the starter so i know they are new and cant be my problem
 

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um I would check the connection to the headlight switch, ya lay upside down and look up at the connections there...push in on them...this is done with the fuse plate off...now if the problem happens again , reach up under the dash and wiggle the wires up by the light switch..if it has an effect you may be in buisness.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok.....i will try that but......that couldn't be the reason why the whole car is losing power i say the dash and the speedo and the headlights becausez those are obvious things you can see when the car is basically spazzing out and surging power through out the car i have a video of it but i took it with my pda and i don't know where to upload it being that its a .mp4 but the video you can see what i am trying to explain... it would be like someone removing the positive cable and putting it back on over and over again. thats what i am experiencing.

but chefster i will deff look under dash to see if that is the problem
 

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C2H5OH
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checked all the fuses already they are all fine. if the speedo could cause the WHOLE car to lose electrical then damn. but non the less the speedo is plugged in all the way. how hard would it be to run new lines from the positive terminal to the relays and to the starter so i know they are new and cant be my problem
Easiest way is to buy a new cable from the dealer, and yes it is dealer only.
You could build your own cable like I did to mine, but honestly it was a pain in the butt and I broke things to make it work.
You can't re use the factory battery clamp because the wire is pinched in there, you cut the wire out and it's now too short. The starter has sort of a T junction lug on it that I couldn't pry apart (I try to reuse things if they are good), but the alternator end is the worst. The first 8" is actually a fusible link then there is that grey plastic piece that bolts the wire to the alternator. It was the connection to the alternator that gave me the biggest headache.

You know come to think of it, remove the red cover on the alternator once and make sure the nut inside is snug as is the top nut on the grey part. Just go easy on them as they are fragile.



Far as your video goes, Photobucket or Savefile might be a good host for it.
 

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Sounds like the corrosion that took out the positive terminal made its way into the +terminal wires, that's why they feel like tubing. Use a ohm meter & test the cables. The resistance should be almost zero on both the 4 & 8 ga. wires. Wiggle the wires while your doing the testing & I'd bet the movement will cause a open @ some point. Anything higher than .5 ohms in any of the cables I'd replace or upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Easiest way is to buy a new cable from the dealer, and yes it is dealer only.
You could build your own cable like I did to mine, but honestly it was a pain in the butt and I broke things to make it work.
You can't re use the factory battery clamp because the wire is pinched in there, you cut the wire out and it's now too short. The starter has sort of a T junction lug on it that I couldn't pry apart (I try to reuse things if they are good), but the alternator end is the worst. The first 8" is actually a fusible link then there is that grey plastic piece that bolts the wire to the alternator. It was the connection to the alternator that gave me the biggest headache.

You know come to think of it, remove the red cover on the alternator once and make sure the nut inside is snug as is the top nut on the grey part. Just go easy on them as they are fragile.



Far as your video goes, Photobucket or Savefile might be a good host for it.
ok how much was the part and do you think it would be better to follow the same route as you what you say is scary but the dealers price $122 [ohcrap] just found that out what did you do at the relay/ fuse box i couldnt figure out how the wires just spliced into everything

Sounds like the corrosion that took out the positive terminal made its way into the +terminal wires, that's why they feel like tubing. Use a ohm meter & test the cables. The resistance should be almost zero on both the 4 & 8 ga. wires. Wiggle the wires while your doing the testing & I'd bet the movement will cause a open @ some point. Anything higher than .5 ohms in any of the cables I'd replace or upgrade.
on to autozone to buy a ohm meter this sux
 

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FF's Night Security
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I had the same problem. It was my alternator going out. It too would pump out 14 volts but would cut in and out when I was driving causing the same problem that you are having. Also My wires were burnt up just like you discribe. I replaced the alternator and the wires going from the alt. to the starter and to the batt. It is a pain in the butt but I figure a nice big 4g wire is better than the wimpy 10g wire that the factory uses. I was only able to catch the alt. twice cutting out power with the car idling. needless to say it was very wierd driving and the whole car would loose power and then come back on the gauges would do there sweep. I would still have some power but sometimes the car would take a little longer than I like to get power back after a while. Check the voltage of the alt. again and give the engine some steady rpm and watch the gauge. If you look closely you might catch the alt. dip in power output just briefly. I never had the problem again after replacing it. I also replaced the ground wires with better ones and cleaned the contact (sanded it all the way down to the metal just to be sure I was getting a good contact.
 

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^^^^^This last reply sounds like the problem/solution. Costly fix however.

Here's what I'd do....hook a volt meter directly to the battery, and run the wires into the car. Drive around and watch the meter....if the voltage dips from 14V down to below 12V while the car is moving, you've got an alternator/wiring problem.
 

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FF's Night Security
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^^^exactly but you could also do it my way it just might be harder to reproduce since the car is'nt under a load sucking the juice from the alt. Mine would do the dip from 14 with a very quick dip into the 12's. You might want to find a alternator repair shop and have your factory ford unit rebuilt. I've had problems with the off brands. Like terminals breaking and pulleys comming off. Go with a good name brand part or rebuild your factory alt.
 

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First: Clean your connections at the battery terminal. It costs nothing.

Next, inspect the wiring connector in the back of the alternator. You might need to purchase a new pigtail and reconnect it to fix the problem if that's it.

Check the alternator by idling the car- it might be difficult to reproduce the problem, but you should read 13v or more across the battery terminals with the engine idling. If it drops to below 12v or above 15- you have a problem with the alternator.

What I would do if the alternator was bad: find a local rebuild shop, and someone to give you a ride there if you don't have another car. You can also remove the alternator in the parking lot if they can rebuild the alternator immediately. I did that once. You will be likely to get 2 things from a local rebuilder: 1) better job 2) more information about the failure 3) more money in your pocket. I saved $80 when I had my Aerostar alternator rebuilt, and had it rebuilt using parts that increased the output. That's not always available, but you might get lucky.
 

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FF's Night Security
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no problem and it helps that your car is yellow too like mine! lol There is always someone out there has had the same problem or one similar one. That can help you and lucky for us this forum is here to fill that need.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
si si si question can one of you guys post how you re ran the wires for the fuse block the starter and alt i can fig out but the fuse box is driving me nutz

o and i got a quote for a rebuilt alt 190 @ 170amps
 

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Discussion Starter #16
question :

when testin the alt do u remove the whole battery while runnin or only the negative cable?
 

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Whatever you do.....Don't disconnect either battery cable while the car is running. The voltage spikes could harm your ECU, blow fuses, damage an alternator that might be ok, etc......

I'm getting the impression you're new at this battery/charge system testing..... You might be better off taking it to a specialist.
 
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