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Discussion Starter #1
Ladies and Gentlemen,

I have recently purchased this vehicle and here are the following codes that Autozone gave me from the check engine light:

P0102 - Probable Cause - Intake Air Leak Duke tube loose or damaged, Open or short circuit, IP signal error, Faulty MAF/VAF sensor, Open or short circuit condition

P0113 - Probable Cause - Faulty IAT sensor, Poor electrical connection, Open or short circuit condition

P1506 - Probable Cause - Failed IAC valve, Engine Vacuum leak

P0401 - Probable Cause - Blocked Passage on EGR system, Failed EGR valve, EGR Solenoid faulty, Failed EGR pressure sensor, Failed EGR position sensor

P0460 - Probable Cause - Failed fuel level sending unit

P0442 - Probable Cause - Defective or loose fuel cap, EVAP canister or hose cracked-not connected, Purge or vent solenoid defective, Vacuum leak at engine

P0135 - Probable Cause - Oxygen sensor, Poor connection at oxygen sensor, check circuit fuse

P0141 - Probable Cause - Faulty H02512 (Bank 1 Sensor 2), poor connection at Oxygen sensor, check circuit fuse

Now I don't know where to start and I am asking for some help on where I need to start at - thats a lot of stuff to do!!!! ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!!
 

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DTC P0606
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So how's the car run? Either the car has been sorely neglected and multiple problems have accumulated over an extended period of time or several codes may have a common problem source (PCV hose or intake vacuum leak, for example) or an electrical problem is causing some false sensor readings triggering multiple DTC codes.

How long has the check engine light been on?

As a start, I'd clear the codes (since you have a list already) and then see which reappear consistently after ensuring your electrical system is OK (battery stays charged, terminals are clean and tight, no obvious wiring shorts or chafing, etc.)

If most of your codes reappear, then look for commonalities and deal with each issue one by one.

You can get more detailed DTC diagnostic info here: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59286

For example P0460 - Failed fuel sending unit

versus

P0460 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction
The PCM monitors the fuel level input (FLI) circuit for electrical failure. The test fails when the signal moves outside the minimum or maximum allowable calibrated parameters for a specified fuel fill percentage in the fuel tank.
Empty fuel tank
Fuel pump (FP) module stuck open
Incorrectly installed fuel gauge
Damaged instrument cluster
CASE GND circuit open
FLI shorted to VPWR
Damaged PCM
Overfilled fuel tank
Fuel pump (FP) module stuck closed
Damaged fuel gauge
FLI circuit open
FLI circuit shorted to CASE GND or PWR GND
CSE GND shorted to VPWR
Monitor FLI PID and FLI V PID in key ON engine RUNNING. FLI PID at 25% fill (with non matching fuel gauge) and FLI V PID less than 0.90 volts [for FLI PID at 75% fill (with non matching fuel gauge) and FLI V PID greater than 2.45 volts] indicates a hard fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i was going to start with the PCM valve and locate all the sensors....i have the book on the car...also missing the airbox resonator...and some relays for the lights...currently my reverse lights are inop so i am hoping thats the issue...(all fuses have been replaced and not popped)...the vehicle runs like a champ but a little LOUD....so the exhaust is getting overhauled...

1 - changed the spark plugs (solved the inconsistent running at idle & starting)
2 - got my (2) mirrors, interior light, jack handle, lug wrench, jack, spare handle ($45 total from the yard!!!!)

a lot of things to do as listed above but i will start with that fuel issue...didnt know one thing could be a problem for many!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
got a fuel cap, owners manual, ford emblem, EGR valve, EGR Solenoid, vacuum lines, ds contact switch and some other solenoid by the EGR for $30 bucks...

next trip will be the O2 sensors, fuel pump, fuel filter and that canister by the fuel tank...hopefully all of this will clear the engine codes asap!!!!!
 

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Y'know, there probably are multiple problems with your vehicle. However, not every DTC represents a problem, nor indicates that a part needs to be replaced.

I suggest before you go swapping parts out with junkyard parts, first look for obvious mechanical problems with the engine. Trace down your vacuum lines. I suggest removing the PCV vacuum line for closer inspection, and you might want to remove any rubber lines or fittings. The plastic ones are always ok if you can't crush them. There aren't that many vacuum lines to deal with.

I bet you find that the air intake tube is loose. The PCV line is dry rotted, decayed, and definitely leaking vacuum. The air filter is probably ancient, so are the plugs. Go through the things that anyone would do when first purchasing a vehicle that wasn't well maintained- including, and especially the fuel filter. Then disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 mins or so to clear the DTCs you had. Now start the engine without touching the accelerator, and allow it to idle for 10 mins or so. If you notice a high idle around 1k rpm for the first 5 mins or so, that is normal. The PCM runs a 5 min test once the engine is warmed to normal operating temp to find the optimum air/fuel ratio. If you don't allow it to run that test, then you'll have high idle until you idle for 5 mins at normal op temps.

Now see what DTC codes pop up. You can ignore P1000.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
thanks for the info...got off to late to try the last post but i will tomorrow in the AM (when its cool in Louisiana)...i will replace the fuel cap and door sensor though...do you really have to see the dealer to get the radio to work after i unplug the battery?? thats going to suck!!!!!

yeah i have the zetec and was missing that DPFE sensor...wow...i know it was important when i saw it at the yard yesterday!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
okay so i did the thing with the battery..no check engine light....yes....after replacing the bulbs - NO REVERSE LIGHTS??? are they linked with the fogs because i dont have them connected (later on i will) but its frustrating backing up without notice!!!! What number in the fuse panel (inside) or the engine bay is it....legally ready for the road after this fix (safety inspection) H E L P !!!!!!
 

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2 things to look at, both in the hatch. It's not a bad idea to disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent blown fuses before you go poking around back there.

First thing- probably the easiest- check those horrid license plate lights. These pop out by using a screwdriver to lever them from the right side of the vehicle. Your owner's manual has directions on how to replace the lamps. Once you get both of them out, you're going to discover a ton of water damage, corrosion, broken parts- etc. IIRC, there is a connector you can unplug to remove the light carriage. Replacing the lamps is easy, you'll figure that out and recognize that style lamp as being old enough to have been installed in 55 Fords. For some reason problems with these lights affect the reverse lights as well. I believe there is the potential to lose the ground for the reverse light circuit at the license plate lights. I highly recommend coating the connections with grease before re-installing to prevent future corrosion. I have even given thought to drilling a small weep hole in the lens, but never got around to it. As long as the Po-Po isn't pulling me over for not having license lights, I have other fish to fry.

Now, and this is more likely to be the problem, the hatch wiring connector at the top of the hatch is well known to wear out insulation and short out wiring. Ford pulls the wires so freaking tight in here that opening the hatch causes the wires to rub against each other and wear off insulation over time. Tape up the damage, and lube the wires thoroughly with grease- anything but moly or possibly lithium grease will work. Most greases don't conduct electricity- but if you want to be really technical about it, then get a thick dielectric or electrical parts grease for both greasing jobs. I use the same thing in this situation that I use on battery terminals which is an old can of petroleum disc brake wheel bearing grease that got crunched in transportation. I've been trying to use that darn thing up for years, but there's just not enough call for it other than electrical corrosion prevention in modern cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
okay i have only one code for the check engine now...P0156 IACV not working....so clean it or replace it? What does it affect besides the idling?

Tried option 1 and no results....now for option 2 tomorrow and if that doesnt work ~ option 3 - use a toggle switch like the ricers do on their imports!!!! if that doesnt work - FORD DEALERSHIP uuuggghhh!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay so i checked the car again and P0156 came up...going to work on that tomorrow BUT the reverse lights still are not coming on...took apart the license lights, worked on the connections and still...going to trail the wires in the hatch or wherever they are and see if something has been cut....option 3 (switch for lights) is brewing in my head foreal!!!
 

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Don't go adding switches. That's completely silly. Your problem might be at the transmission which is where I think the reverse light switch is. I don't know, I've not had to work on mine.

This is assuming that both the lamps are good, and you have verified that you have a good ground on light socket with a continuity tester- DMM set to resistance, you should read .1 or less, some models will beep. It's the same reading as putting the leads together. I'd also look closely at the lamps you installed. Make sure it's a single element lamp, and there should be a fuse for reverse lights. Your owner's manual will have fuse locations and descriptions of all the circuits in it. If you don't have an owner's manual some searching online will allow you to find a PDF of one. I do believe Ford has a website with OM PDFs, but I can't remember the URL.

IIRC, wiring runs down the driver's side, and splits behind the driver's rear light housing.
 

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OH, you might consider dropping some money on some very informative manuals. It will run you about $100, but will be the best tool you ever had. Search Ebay for Helms manuals for your car. There will be 2, one covers electrical, and such, and the other covers engine, chassis, etc. These will give you more accurate information than you could possibly imagine- including wiring diagrams, wire coloring, etc. Both are the size of large city phone books.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
replaced the switch and yes i have reverse lights but the IACV is still acting up...any suggestions on how to replace this thing...the book is not clear like it should be...anybody have a picture and instructions more clearer
 

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What number in the fuse panel (inside) or the engine bay is it....legally ready for the road after this fix (safety inspection) H E L P !!!!!!
if that doesnt work - FORD DEALERSHIP uuuggghhh!!!!!
Hey 55FordLover,

Sounds like a lot of work.

Whynotthinkwhynot, suggested literature that will help with all this work. Here are some links that will guide you to them:

1. Owner Guide
2. To purchase a hard copy of your vehicle's Shop Manual and Owner Guide visit the Helm Website.

Good Luck!

Your owner's manual will have fuse locations and descriptions of all the circuits in it. If you don't have an owner's manual some searching online will allow you to find a PDF of one. I do believe Ford has a website with OM PDFs, but I can't remember the URL.
OH, you might consider dropping some money on some very informative manuals. It will run you about $100, but will be the best tool you ever had. Search Ebay for Helms manuals for your car. There will be 2, one covers electrical, and such, and the other covers engine, chassis, etc. These will give you more accurate information than you could possibly imagine- including wiring diagrams, wire coloring, etc. Both are the size of large city phone books.
Thanks for the guidance!

Noemi
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yeah i have the manual from autozone BUT there was a thread here that showed step-by-step with pictures on how to change out the IACV...i forgot to print it out and use it...thats what i am looking for...
 

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Iacv

It's a PITA to get to the part to replace it unless you are constructed like a spider monkey. I have had to get to it twice now and it can be done. I went at it from the underside and if you have arms long enough you should be able to get to it pretty easily. Two bolts/screws and one electrical connector and you're good to go.
Also, if too many codes pop back up you might want to check some of the big junctions in you wiring harness. The big plug/junction located on top of the trans housing had some corrosion in it and caused me to spend several months cursing and spending money... I've discovered corrosion in more electrical connectors since then too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
looking to buy the IACV in a couple of days thanks to Santa's money drop on the 25th!!! its not that hard to find but a pain in the butt to get to!!!
 
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