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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks,

As my car is getting a little bit older, and as i couldn't respect precisely the schedules for oil change, filters ... because of work. Could you please show me how can i perform an effective cleaning of my engine (let me know what and how should i clean) i've noticed that cleaning the electronic engines could lead to bugs or setting up again the throttle ...

Could you dear folks help on this journey, so i can clean my baby as it deserves (with pictures if possible)

My skills, already worked on gasoline engines but never on diesel.

greetings from Morocco.
 

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Mon dieux, that's not the impression I got.

I'll forward it again to the General Tech section, and see if anyone has comments.

I'm wondering now just what kind of internal cleaning you have in mind, anything past fuel additives or a more frequent oil change is seldom done....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
could anyone tell me how can i clean the throttle, and what are the parts i'll have to clean (dont forget i'm running on a diesel so you would have to be more precise please)

If also i can clean the injectors without having to set them up, in fact you're more experienced than i do so everything is welcome.

one last thing is that i live in Morocco so everything is DIY (including injectors cleaning quite difficult to find a specialist)
 

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You don't want to use any type of fuel cleaner. All that will do is clog the injectors. The safest way to clean diesel injectors is remove them and back flush or ultrasonic. Most times, if the car runs well and doesn't smoke excessively, injectors are fine.

Far as cleaning oil, transmission fluid (the red stuff, ATF) mixed in with the oil works well. But being diesel you'll want to take care doing this. Idle only and let it do so for a good half hour or better. If there is a lot of sludge you don't want it fouling up the injector pump. And frankly I'd do this a couple times until the oil comes out clean ... meaning I'd do about 3 oil changes in one.
TBH though, I don't think it's really necessary; unless the oil always comes out black as night. And even then changing more often is a better choice, and/or using a better quality oil.

There is no throttle plate. The throttle body is simply a hole. So a shop rag to wipe the oil coking out is about all you need to do.


I would say the best thing you could do is to remove the intercooler and clean the oil out. Degrease the inside of it. In a perfect world, there should be no oil in it. And the amount in it will tell you the condition of the turbo. The more oil the worse the condition of the turbo. Liquid oil is not good.


For the most part, if it ain't broken, don't fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You don't want to use any type of fuel cleaner. All that will do is clog the injectors. The safest way to clean diesel injectors is remove them and back flush or ultrasonic. Most times, if the car runs well and doesn't smoke excessively, injectors are fine.

Far as cleaning oil, transmission fluid (the red stuff, ATF) mixed in with the oil works well. But being diesel you'll want to take care doing this. Idle only and let it do so for a good half hour or better. If there is a lot of sludge you don't want it fouling up the injector pump. And frankly I'd do this a couple times until the oil comes out clean ... meaning I'd do about 3 oil changes in one.
TBH though, I don't think it's really necessary; unless the oil always comes out black as night. And even then changing more often is a better choice, and/or using a better quality oil.

There is no throttle plate. The throttle body is simply a hole. So a shop rag to wipe the oil coking out is about all you need to do.


I would say the best thing you could do is to remove the intercooler and clean the oil out. Degrease the inside of it. In a perfect world, there should be no oil in it. And the amount in it will tell you the condition of the turbo. The more oil the worse the condition of the turbo. Liquid oil is not good.


For the most part, if it ain't broken, don't fix it.
Iminhell, let me tell that u're awesome!!

thanks a lot for all these advises however i need more explanations about the transmission fluid part, (i had a leak in the transmission gasket so i had to add more and fix the leak, so i'd rather change it all am i right? what else?)

do you have pictures or videos of the parts i should take care of?

if i disassemble the throttle and injectors will i have to set up the car again or will it run normally, despite cleaning the parts? i have seen that you might need to set up/calibrate again everything so i'm just wandering.

Thanks a lot for your reply and the upcoming one :D
 

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C2H5OH
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If the transmission pan gasket is leaking, it might just be a loose bolt or 2. Grab a wrench and see. They should be just a smidge over hand tight, something like 18 ft/lb or so generally.
If it's leaking, replace the gasket and as long as you're in there, replace the filter.
Probably take 3qts of fluid or so to fill it back up.


The oil flush and adding the transmission fluid, you can add a full qt to the oil that's in the car right now. But like I said, just let it idle.
If you're going to drive the car you'll want to drain that extra qt of oil out. Too much oil can cause problems. No load on the engine shouldn't though.


I wouldn't dissemble anything other than the air hose just to have a peek inside and see how dirty it is.
If it is really oily, then remove what you can between the turbo and throttle body.Wipe out the throttle body with a rag and call that good enough.
If there is lots of oil, then you can think about removing the intercooler. And by lots I mean the pipes are wet and measurably thick. If it's just a misting, the cooler will be fine.
I'm not sure how hard it is to remove, but I imagine it's not a 30 min job to remove and clean it. Probably a couple hour job at least.

I don't have pic's or anything. Best place I can think of that might is --> http://www.turbosport.co.uk/


If you really want to know if the injectors NEED cleaning, find a shop that can do a "cylinder contribution test". It's something a good scantool can do. It's a percentage of how much each cylinder adds to rotating the engine. If one is weak, the scan will tell you. Might cost you $100, but it's $100 saved in not needing to do added work.
 
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