i want to buy another 2.0 and build it up. new pistons, crank, cylinder head, cams, valves, etc. i just want to make sure a stock 2.0 block can handle these kind of upgrades along with a turbo too.
not sure. i thought about it. i know its the same block. i know this is prolly a stupid question but it woulkd still have the same motor mounts to just drop it in without making custom ones. i have a decent amount of knowledge with this stuff but i have never actually done something like this before. my step dad was a mechanic and i learned what i know through him.Not to mention that no one makes aftermarket shortblocks. As long as you don't have a connecting rod that comes loose or rev the crank past 7500RPM, the block should hold up.
One question though, why are you building up a D20 when you could build up a D23? Most people on here that have done thier own builds usually build up a 2.3L
Thanks for the advice. Won't be doing that.I did some thorough research of this when I got my 2.3 form a salvage site. Technically speaking, it is possible to bore the 2.0 to a 2.2 and the 2.3 to a 2.5 by boring the cylinders to 92mm. However you will make the cylinder walls so incredibly thin that the longevity and durability of the engine will be greatly affected, which is why this is not recommended especially if you intend to run boost which requires an engine that is structurally sound.
Another disadvantage to this is cost. Being that the Duratec's are made from aluminum, they require cast iron sleeves to be installed to make up their cylinder walls. If you were to bore these cylinders to a 92mm diameter, you would need to acquire new sleeves. Sleeves are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, which makes this whole idea non-feasible.
If you want, you can try to find a D25 short block and acquire a D23 head. However you would have to find something to block off the second oil pressure port that is running to the head, because the new D25 head has two oil pressure ports running to it instead of one like the D20 and D23. Also the reason you can't use the D25 head is because the camshaft bearings closest to the chain are different because it has VCT.
Good info, but are the 2.5 blocks taller or are the rods just 3mm shorter. I would love nothing more then to be able to drop in a 2.5 over the 2.0, when the time comes to replace or overhaul.If the 2.5 crank has a longer stroke than the 2.3 crank, then NO you can't use it in a 2.3. If the 2.5 crank has more stroke than the 2.3 then the 2.5 shortblock must compensate for it by having a taller shortblock, otherwise the pistons will rise too far out of the cylinder and hit the head.
I 2nd this too. Turbo is the best way to go on '08's +You didn't mention anything about swapping the rods in your OP, only the crank. If one were to swap the rods and the crank they may be able to gain a little more displacement but it wouldn't be 2.5 unless the cylinders were bored as well. IIRC the 2.5 gains its displacement from both a bigger bore and a longer stroke
Problem with the 2.5 is that it is so new that I don't believe anyone makes forged rods and pistons for them yet, which you would definitely want if you are thinking of going F/I. As for going N/A, it's probably not worth it as there was only around 20hp difference between the 2.0 and 2.3, you're going to have even less of a gain jumping from 2.3 to 2.5. This is why so many car manufactures, like Volkswagen, have opted to go with turbo equipped small engines vs. bigger engines that have more displacement; as it takes a big jump in displacement to notice a gain.