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Discussion Starter #1
i want to buy another 2.0 and build it up. new pistons, crank, cylinder head, cams, valves, etc. i just want to make sure a stock 2.0 block can handle these kind of upgrades along with a turbo too.
 

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I almost guarantee that you will not find the limits of the Duratec block.
 

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Not to mention that no one makes aftermarket shortblocks. As long as you don't have a connecting rod that comes loose or rev the crank past 7500RPM, the block should hold up.

One question though, why are you building up a D20 when you could build up a D23? Most people on here that have done thier own builds usually build up a 2.3L
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not to mention that no one makes aftermarket shortblocks. As long as you don't have a connecting rod that comes loose or rev the crank past 7500RPM, the block should hold up.

One question though, why are you building up a D20 when you could build up a D23? Most people on here that have done thier own builds usually build up a 2.3L
not sure. i thought about it. i know its the same block. i know this is prolly a stupid question but it woulkd still have the same motor mounts to just drop it in without making custom ones. i have a decent amount of knowledge with this stuff but i have never actually done something like this before. my step dad was a mechanic and i learned what i know through him.
 

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If you do a 2.3 you will need to get the 2.3 passenger motor mount, otherwise it will sit a 1/2" lower on the passenger side which will will cause several things to not line up correctly. Since you have a 2010 focus you will also want to swap over your intake camshaft and thermostat housing, as none of the 2.3's ever came from the factory with the 08+ style intake cam and electronic thermostat housing, since the last focus that had the 2.3 was the 07' ST

Pretty much everything else (sensors, coil packs, IM, exhaust manifold, etc) would swap over from your current engine.
 

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^WHat mega said. Remeber the 08+ intake cam has 5 sensor pick-ups on the cam and the 03-07 Dura's have 1 sensor pick-up.
 

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I did some thorough research of this when I got my 2.3 form a salvage site. Technically speaking, it is possible to bore the 2.0 to a 2.2 and the 2.3 to a 2.5 by boring the cylinders to 92mm. However you will make the cylinder walls so incredibly thin that the longevity and durability of the engine will be greatly affected, which is why this is not recommended especially if you intend to run boost which requires an engine that is structurally sound.

Another disadvantage to this is cost. Being that the Duratec's are made from aluminum, they require cast iron sleeves to be installed to make up their cylinder walls. If you were to bore these cylinders to a 92mm diameter, you would need to acquire new sleeves. Sleeves are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, which makes this whole idea non-feasible.

If you want, you can try to find a D25 short block and acquire a D23 head. However you would have to find something to block off the second oil pressure port that is running to the head, because the new D25 head has two oil pressure ports running to it instead of one like the D20 and D23. Also the reason you can't use the D25 head is because the camshaft bearings closest to the chain are different because it has VCT.
 

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Just thinking, I'm not an expert but
Could you drop a 2.5L (100mm stroke) crank into a 2.3L block?
that would give you an extra 6mm of stroke, then if you could do a 1.5mm bore increase (to 89mm) you would end up with a 2.5L using a basic 2.3L that would bolt into anything!
If so that would be a cool way to go.
 

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If the 2.5 crank has a longer stroke than the 2.3 crank, then NO you can't use it in a 2.3. If the 2.5 crank has more stroke than the 2.3 then the 2.5 shortblock must compensate for it by having a taller shortblock, otherwise the pistons will rise too far out of the cylinder and hit the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I did some thorough research of this when I got my 2.3 form a salvage site. Technically speaking, it is possible to bore the 2.0 to a 2.2 and the 2.3 to a 2.5 by boring the cylinders to 92mm. However you will make the cylinder walls so incredibly thin that the longevity and durability of the engine will be greatly affected, which is why this is not recommended especially if you intend to run boost which requires an engine that is structurally sound.

Another disadvantage to this is cost. Being that the Duratec's are made from aluminum, they require cast iron sleeves to be installed to make up their cylinder walls. If you were to bore these cylinders to a 92mm diameter, you would need to acquire new sleeves. Sleeves are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, which makes this whole idea non-feasible.

If you want, you can try to find a D25 short block and acquire a D23 head. However you would have to find something to block off the second oil pressure port that is running to the head, because the new D25 head has two oil pressure ports running to it instead of one like the D20 and D23. Also the reason you can't use the D25 head is because the camshaft bearings closest to the chain are different because it has VCT.
Thanks for the advice. Won't be doing that.
 

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If the 2.5 crank has a longer stroke than the 2.3 crank, then NO you can't use it in a 2.3. If the 2.5 crank has more stroke than the 2.3 then the 2.5 shortblock must compensate for it by having a taller shortblock, otherwise the pistons will rise too far out of the cylinder and hit the head.
Good info, but are the 2.5 blocks taller or are the rods just 3mm shorter. I would love nothing more then to be able to drop in a 2.5 over the 2.0, when the time comes to replace or overhaul.
 

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You didn't mention anything about swapping the rods in your OP, only the crank. If one were to swap the rods and the crank they may be able to gain a little more displacement but it wouldn't be 2.5 unless the cylinders were bored as well. IIRC the 2.5 gains its displacement from both a bigger bore and a longer stroke

Problem with the 2.5 is that it is so new that I don't believe anyone makes forged rods and pistons for them yet, which you would definitely want if you are thinking of going F/I. As for going N/A, it's probably not worth it as there was only around 20hp difference between the 2.0 and 2.3, you're going to have even less of a gain jumping from 2.3 to 2.5. This is why so many car manufactures, like Volkswagen, have opted to go with turbo equipped small engines vs. bigger engines that have more displacement; as it takes a big jump in displacement to notice a gain.
 

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I 2nd it!

You didn't mention anything about swapping the rods in your OP, only the crank. If one were to swap the rods and the crank they may be able to gain a little more displacement but it wouldn't be 2.5 unless the cylinders were bored as well. IIRC the 2.5 gains its displacement from both a bigger bore and a longer stroke

Problem with the 2.5 is that it is so new that I don't believe anyone makes forged rods and pistons for them yet, which you would definitely want if you are thinking of going F/I. As for going N/A, it's probably not worth it as there was only around 20hp difference between the 2.0 and 2.3, you're going to have even less of a gain jumping from 2.3 to 2.5. This is why so many car manufactures, like Volkswagen, have opted to go with turbo equipped small engines vs. bigger engines that have more displacement; as it takes a big jump in displacement to notice a gain.
I 2nd this too. Turbo is the best way to go on '08's +
 

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Sorry to mention the rods, I thought it was universally known that longer cranks need to use shorter rods. Of course its always going to be cheaper to go F/I for ultimate power, my thought was about increasing the stroke in the 2.0 to bring the torque level way up and lower in the power band. I spend almost all of my driving in the 1500-3000 rpm range and am looking for a way to fatten up the torque down low. I know that's not the nature of our motors to have a great bottom end. Just an idea for a $1000-2000 N/A build, long stroke and high comp.
Thanks everyone
Bob
 
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