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Wit Da Silva Bullit
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4,609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all, I know there is at least three other write ups on how to install a header on the mk3, no need to state the obvious, and even though I Thank those guys for their great write ups, I felt the one thing they were missing was a bunch of pictures. So here is my attempt. The installation took about 2 hours.

This is the obx racing header made for the first duratec engine, it is two pieces and not the one that we see now that's one piece.

it's on amazon for 250 shipped. I bought it used from a local here for 200 bux with longer O2 sensor and mil eliminator. Not a bad deal, and to good to pass up.



So first thing is first for those of you with an engine cover, remove it.

Then unplug both the rear sensor and the front O2 sensor from the top.


Then put to work on the heat shield. 4 10 mm bolts.
at this time you can pull the heat shield out, you'll have to push the remainder of the sensor through the heat shield.

A lot of this bolts were really hard to un torque.

Next, take off 4 pressure clips on the lining of the windshield cowl, pull out the carpet lining, and pull out the vent shields on top of your windshield cowl, take off these two bolts and it will come out


Next take out 2 bolts from upper motor mount (17mm) that go on the chassis.


At this time raise up your car on jack stands


Remove two bolts from exhaust, catback on mine, and undue exhaust hanger bracket here


Next undue the undercarriage lining which has 6 torque screws. T10.


Remove bracket screws.


Remove rear sensor and front sensor


At this time the whole bottom of the header is out.

Go back up to the front. Remove manifold nuts, sometimes the bolts will come out, there's 5 of them.


At this time since we un did the bolts on the chassis from the upper motor mount you can pull the motor forward.

Pull the header out
it took some wiggling but not much.


Big difference.

put the new one in, first the header, bolt it up, then the flex pipe. All gaskets and bolts. Everything lines up. Put your sensors back in. Note, we had to switch the sensors around, the rear for the front and vice versa. Only way they reached.
And put everything back together in reverse order.




Start her up.

I want to thank mark (notreal) and rusty (daspazzZX3) for helping me with this install. Couldn't have done it without you guys.

Feel free to ask any questions. Hope this helps the next fanatic.

KAYKAY.
 

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Wit Da Silva Bullit
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4,609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
**Reserved for videos**
 

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The ImpoSTer
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2,285 Posts
Awesome write up. Any issues with the two bolts connecting the cat to the exhuast? When I took off my stock exhaust to install my cat back they were the biggest obstacle. Ended up having to buy new bolts and cut them to size. Do you think its easier to install the two piece header than it would be for the one piece?
 

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Wit Da Silva Bullit
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4,609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well.when I did the catback. . I ran into a similar issue. I had to make new holes on the bracket, and buy new bolts, cause they had seized.

As far as this header goes. Since its a catless header, I didn't have that issue.. :) but no, all bolts went in fine. No issues at all.

I haven't installed the one piece header, so I can't be for sure. However, this install took two hours, and we ran into no obstacles, no cuss words, it was easy. Maybe a couple of hard bolts, but with the help of two people. got it out. :)
 

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Focus Addict
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14,132 Posts
CEL come on or no?
It will come on, since there is no catalytic converter, plus the oxygen sensors are now reversed which will confuse the engine management if they were not also plugged into the other sensor's location on the wiring harness.

The upstream O2 sensor is meant to verify the combustion efficiency with the downstream one monitoring the catalytic converter.
 

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Wit Da Silva Bullit
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4,609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It will come on, since there is no catalytic converter, plus the oxygen sensors are now reversed which will confuse the engine management if they were not also plugged into the other sensor's location on the wiring harness.

The upstream O2 sensor is meant to verify the combustion efficiency with the downstream one monitoring the catalytic converter.
Nope, unfortunately unable to reverse sensors on the wiring harness due to the plugs being different. Will be buying a longer rear sensor at some point, and will be buying a new mil eliminator spacer as this one is probably faulty
 

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Registered
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3,080 Posts
Quick edit. Under car lining is t27, the bolts at the cat bracket were hella tight, and the header nuts/studs can and should be removed completely. They are 15mm nuts and E8 for the studs. That's an external torx socket. I applied nickel antiseize when I put everything back together. And I wanted to try a different route then removing motor mounts. The cowling was easy with only 4 bolts, 4 plastic clips and 4 metal clamps which are easily pulled on one side and fall off into your hand. It was great learning experience for me as well. I hope Kaykay build helps others and he keeps up the great work on his car.
 

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Wit Da Silva Bullit
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4,609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for your input Mark.
 

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218 Posts
Quick edit. Under car lining is t27, the bolts at the cat bracket were hella tight, and the header nuts/studs can and should be removed completely. They are 15mm nuts and E8 for the studs. That's an external torx socket. I applied nickel antiseize when I put everything back together. And I wanted to try a different route then removing motor mounts. The cowling was easy with only 4 bolts, 4 plastic clips and 4 metal clamps which are easily pulled on one side and fall off into your hand. It was great learning experience for me as well. I hope Kaykay build helps others and he keeps up the great work on his car.
So you're saying the studs in the engine block should be removed? Can't you get the old exhaust manifold off leaving them in place or is there another reason? Just want to understand what I'm getting into! [^]
 

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Wit Da Silva Bullit
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4,609 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We only had to take two out to be able to pull the old one out. But mark can weigh in for an exact reason, he's the expert
 
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#dailydriven
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6,103 Posts
hey i know it was talked about in other threads but I didn't want to dig, jus thought I'd ask you. So you said that you had to get a longer rear o2 sensor correct? what one did you buy? also, does the front o2 sensor work fine?
 

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Torretto!
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3,878 Posts
Im also interested as im getting a header soon.....and how was the 4-1....this is the older duratec header??? The one piece is 4-2-1....??? Or should i get the older fs werks....decisions decisions
 

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w/ my magic bag
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29,472 Posts
I'd go for the fwerks header & flex,,,,,,,,,,,
 

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5,902 Posts
He hasn't been on here since the middle of June so something came up.
 

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374 Posts
Only advantage of removing all the studs is more room to put the manifold in, well that and being able to put never seize on the block threads, I did as well with my turbo
 

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#dailydriven
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6,103 Posts
wanted to give a big thanks to kaykay, I used this write up to do my install. couldn't have done it without it.
 
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