Focus Fanatics Forum banner

141 - 159 of 159 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thank you very much for taking the time and posting the pictures. I just replaced my intake manifold and pretty much everything you posted was spot on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
It's hard to imagine what Ford/Mazda were thinking when they engineered this arrangement..... I know - "We'll save a lot of money by stuffing that valve in where nobody can get to it."
Anyway, a couple of tips or observations with this problem:
1) When I did this job, getting the fan assembly out was the worst of it. Maybe others had better luck? At the time, I was working outside in the winter, with stiff fingers.
2) Re the hard-to-reach center bolt holding the intake manifold on: I just did not replace it! Left it out. After 90K plus more miles, no issues.
3) The stock PCV hose cracks because it gets sucked flat repeatedly, then relaxes, until it cracks from rubber fatigue. If you put two or three circular screw hose clamps around the middle section of the replacement hose, this will constrain it to stay circular and not collapse flat.
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,596 Posts
^^^ I'll disagree with #3, only because that doesn't happen until after the hose is already deteriorated and on it's last legs.

As to the reasons for the location, it's driven by where the oil separator is located. On the front of the engine it's away from exh. heat and needs only a short hose to attach to the intake. Zetecs had it behind the exh. manifold, requiring a long double hose and tubing setup to reach around to the intake. Ended up a regular issue for those, with an updated and insulated hose as one fix. Would be worse on a duratec with the exh. at the rear for FWD applications, more heat to degrade the hose near the PCV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,379 Posts
What is the part number for the retaining ring that can break? Is it just a hose clamp?
I do not know the part number.

Here is a picture of the ring; the ring is not a clamp. Separately, the hose does use two clamps, one on each end.

The ring has two notches in the outside diameter. These notches clip-onto two tabs that snap together once the ring is pushed-on. Look at the TOP of the picture (oil separator cover plate) and you can see one of the 2 tabs. Your mission Jim, is to disengage the notches verses the tabs... without breaking the ring.



Found that pic in an old thread here->
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/1688293-post34.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
I just changed this PCV hose on my 2.0L 5 speed, 2007.

You do not need to remove the Intake manifold. Just undo the two 13mm bolts holding the starter in place. Slide it over slightly and you can access the lower hose clamp from underneath. The top clamp you can access between the #3 and #4 intake tube. The hardest part is sliding the hose off and on the intake nipple. I used a long saw to cut the hose to remove it. To put back on I used engine oil to lube it.

Took me 1.5 hours. you just need 11" needle nose pliers.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi
i have a 2007 ford focus 1.6si hatchback, would this procedure work on my car as well, i have to take out the inlet manifold and check for air leaks, i would appreciate if anyone could send me pics or videos on how to take out the manifold as i am doing this for the first time and i dont want to damage other parts whilst removing and replacing the manifold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
I just changed this PCV hose on my 2.0L 5 speed, 2007.

You do not need to remove the Intake manifold. Just undo the two 13mm bolts holding the starter in place. Slide it over slightly and you can access the lower hose clamp from underneath. The top clamp you can access between the #3 and #4 intake tube. The hardest part is sliding the hose off and on the intake nipple. I used a long saw to cut the hose to remove it. To put back on I used engine oil to lube it.

Took me 1.5 hours. you just need 11" needle nose pliers.



Nice, I knew there was a way to get it out without removing the manifold! I've already got some double jointed pliers and extra long hose pliers to get at it. I'll post my results this weekend!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Not removing the intake manifold is a MUCH better way of replacing this hose! I had the old one out and the new one in about 2 hours. One thing I noticed is this hose is very much directional. It may be hard to tell but one end is slightly longer than the other and it makes a huge difference. The longer end goes down bellow on the intake manifold. I used a combination of long reach single jointed and double jointed pliers with long reach double jointed hose pliers. I also lubed the hose up to make it slipping on easier. Even with that it's still a royal pain in the butt to get it on. I installed the bottom side first and used another pair of pliers to push against the hose pliers for leverage to get it to slip on. Up top I used the hose pliers and a LOT of wiggling, cursing, and smoke breaks lmao. But it eventually slipped on. Also the hose clamps were glued to the line I ended up breaking them loose from the line to position them in a way that made it easy for me to release the tension onto the hose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Not removing the intake manifold is a MUCH better way of replacing this hose! I had the old one out and the new one in about 2 hours. One thing I noticed is this hose is very much directional. It may be hard to tell but one end is slightly longer than the other and it makes a huge difference. The longer end goes down bellow on the intake manifold. I used a combination of long reach single jointed and double jointed pliers with long reach double jointed hose pliers. I also lubed the hose up to make it slipping on easier. Even with that it's still a royal pain in the butt to get it on. I installed the bottom side first and used another pair of pliers to push against the hose pliers for leverage to get it to slip on. Up top I used the hose pliers and a LOT of wiggling, cursing, and smoke breaks lmao. But it eventually slipped on. Also the hose clamps were glued to the line I ended up breaking them loose from the line to position them in a way that made it easy for me to release the tension onto the hose.
You forgot the most important part. Remove the two main bolts holding the starter in place. Then wiggle the starter over a little bit to gain access to the lower hose clamp from under the vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Here's some photos of mid way through.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
PCV Hose Replacement Part

So I got the GATES EMH151 from RockAuto since that was listed as the PCV Valve to Intake... Did I get the right part? It seemed different from the PCV Hose that I pulled out from the valve, a tad bit shorter...

If that's not the right one, what can I use to replace it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,379 Posts
So I got the GATES EMH151 from RockAuto since that was listed as the PCV Valve to Intake... Did I get the right part? It seemed different from the PCV Hose that I pulled out from the valve, a tad bit shorter...

If that's not the right one, what can I use to replace it?
I looked at your Gates hose online, and it seems to be the right part. Your Gates looks like the one I used; Dorman 46034.
 
141 - 159 of 159 Posts
Top