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I didnt torque mine down nor did we tighten them in any spacific order but i did have one of the bolts fall out on me about a month after.

Mine had 7 i believe, 6 across the top and one down low under the car. When the one of the 6 fell out from the top, i took the bottom one out and put it op top.

They want $6. for each bolt so ill probably wait till i get a new intake and get a new bolt then with new gaskets and then torque em down properly.

Im thinking about sanding and using a dremel on the new intake to pretty it up a little more then my stock one. which i ruined.[:(]
 

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Looking in the Haynes manual and it's calling for 156 inch pounds torque on the eight intake manifold bolts. Will cross torque them.

Another forum member recommended replacing the thermostat, so purchased one for $22 and replaced yesterday:





Removed the oil separator with PCV valve & installed new $9 PCV valve using the old o-ring on the new valve.



Used the razor blade on a scraper to pry the PCV collar up & off of the tabs, worked great:

 

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First off, blueoval23, hope you don't mind me adding all of these photos to your thread. Just working through my learning curve for the first time doing this job.

Installed the Gates 18423 hose (see previous hose photos) after a few attempts this morning. Had a problem getting the lubricated hose to stay on the intake manifold nipple while getting the hose clamp in position to tighten. Needed to write this down while it's fresh in my mind.

This is probably common knowledge for many experienced FF, but hope this information will be helpful for some.

Here is the final installation sequence that worked for me:

The cooling fan assembly needs to be removed, if it has not already been done.

Used K & N air filter seal grease on both PCV hose IDs & nipple ODs to help
the undersized hose to slip on easily.

Tighten screwdriver/socket type hose clamp on the PCV hose connection.

The photo shows how the clamps should be oriented.

Install the intake manifold & EGR tube without manifold bolts.

From the front right side of the intake manifold, slip the PCV hose
on the intake manifold nipple.

Hold the manifold as close as possible to the engine to prevent
hose from slipping off while one intake manifold bolt is installed
to hold intake manifold & PCV hose in place.

Be sure the hose did not slide off the nipple and tighten hose
clamp with a ratchet.

Hose clamps used:



Reach in under intake to install/tighten hose to intake manifold:



Installed hose clamp in bottom RH portion of photo looking from intake/air filter side:



Will put everything back together & test the ZX3 this afternoon!
 

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The ZX3 ran "Great" on the test ride. The engine light does "not" come on with code 171 (lean), no more rough idle, and no more hissing when the engine is shut down.

Appreciate the comments in this thread before & after first I posted. [thumb]

Hope the Toyota Pickup heater hose will last much longer than the OEM hose. Time will tell, should put 1,000 miles on during the next two weeks. [8D]

 

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Discussion Starter #66
First off, blueoval23, hope you don't mind me adding all of these photos to your thread. Just working through my learning curve for the first time doing this job.
Not at all, I think its great to have this much info in one place, thanks!
 

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Update:

Have about 5000 miles on the Gates 18423 (Heater/PCV) hose so far, and running great.

Contacted Gates after installing the 18423 hose and they said even though this hose was not designed for PCV applications, it should not crack, but might get soft with time.

The OEM hose had probably been cracked long before I discovered & replaced it. The car runs & idles great, and no more engine check light/lean code. [thumb]
 

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Great thread!
Gotta replace the thermostat on an 07' 2.0 and believe I have to remove the intake manifold for for that too.
I have no clue why they would stuff serviceable parts under the intake manifold and make it such a paid. In the ass to remove.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk
 

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What would you think of this. Top Speed sells a PCV valve block off plate (metal). That with a copper flare fitting, and using soft copper tubing to eliminate the 'rubber' altogether.
 

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What would you think of this. Top Speed sells a PCV valve block off plate (metal). That with a copper flare fitting, and using soft copper tubing to eliminate the 'rubber' altogether.
The idea of replacing the PCV hose with something that will not fail, will be a great improvement and should be done.

Hose connection on back of intake manifold that needs to be connected to:



After installing the Gates hose, thinking I should have installed a metal tube between the hose bends for a more durable assembly. Just a thought.





The cracks on the original hose looked like they could have been caused from the hose cycling like a bellows and eventually cracking the hose in several locations.
 

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My thought was to run a metal pipe either to atmosphere or a catch-can. I think it would be to tight a fit for a PCV to intake setup (good pics btw!).
 

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My thought was to run a metal pipe either to atmosphere or a catch-can. I think it would be to tight a fit for a PCV to intake setup (good pics btw!).
You would have no issues doing this , In my opinion on anything performance the PCV SHOULD NOT be going back to the intake anyway and the valve cover breather should not as well , vent them both

Tom
 

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blasted problem

I am STOPPED at being unable to remove the dipstick tube from where it's attached to the intake manifold with a 4.5 mm hex screw. I have FINALLY found a 4.5 hex wrench but the screw will NOT budge!!! I'm afraid of stripping it out! Any suggestions??

Much thanks,
bamakodaker
 

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Always hate rounded off nuts/bolts/allen head bolts and take care to prevent that when possible.

I am sure there are other ways, but when I run into a stripped allen head or rounded bolt head, I drill the bolt head out using a drill bit the same diameter as the threaded portion of the bolt. You may have a tough time getting a drill in the tight space to drill out the allen head. The radiator may have to be removed and if there is still not enough room a 90 degree angle drill head would need to be used. Only drill the depth of the allen "head" & not into the threads. Once finished drilling, remove the drill bit from the drill and use the other end of the bit to snap out the bolt head out. The dip stick can then be removed and use a small punch with a sharp point to back out the bolt.
 

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I removed the intake manifold of my 2004 ZX5 2.3 in order to replace the PCV hose. The IM is coated with a wet carbon gunk, what should I ise to clean it and how?

Thanks
Paul
 

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I removed the intake manifold of my 2004 ZX5 2.3 in order to replace the PCV hose. The IM is coated with a wet carbon gunk, what should I ise to clean it and how?

Thanks
Paul
Any carb/choke cleaner should work. Or 3M has a really good throttle plate & carb cleaner. P/N 8866. $7 a $8 at O'Reillys or other parts stores. It works really really good. I use it all the time to clean the throttle plate in the throttle bodies.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. I bought two cans at a local CarQuest retailer, it seems to work pretty good. I do have lots of carbon buildup above the valves, that's not coming off.

BTW, I was able to easily remove the PCV valve from it's cover. With the cover off of the car I could use a needle nose pliers to grab and squeeze the locking ring at the two notches and turn counterclockwise, it came right off.

Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. I bought two cans at a local CarQuest retailer, it seems to work pretty good. I do have lots of carbon buildup above the valves, that's not coming off.

BTW, I was able to easily remove the PCV valve from it's cover. With the cover off of the car I could use a needle nose pliers to grab and squeeze the locking ring at the two notches and turn counterclockwise, it came right off.

Thanks again.
Nice to hear it. That's a project I will need to do in the near future.
 

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I was able to put everything back together and the car is running much better, no CEL! A couple of things when you reassemble:

Insert the hidden bolt first.
There's a vacuum hose from the fuel injection rail that snakes it's way through the IM and plugs into the IM from below, not easy to see except from under the car with a flashlight.
I accidently broke the electrical connecto on the idle control valve, had to buy a new one for $54 from AutoZone, be careful with that connector.
 

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Thanks for the tips. Those connectors seem to get brittle. I broke a coil connector changing the plugs. Luckily I work in auto parts where I have a discount. O o o O'Reilly...
 
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