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Will start working on replacing the PCV hose tomorrow on my 04 ZX3 2.3L. Could not find the hose at local auto parts, will check out Rock Auto like someone mentioned and visit Harbor Freight for some long 1/4" drive extentions to remove the hidden manifold bolt.

Thanks for the thread & additional information.
 

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Good luck with that one, ive yet to see that one out.

I was told its easy but i couldnt get mine out. I wound up cutting the line and sliding it off the tree nipple part the line slips over and just leaving it on my intake.

I did see red triangle clips people said to push in on but mine never would come out. It has to be one of the more stupid designs of clips on the car.

I took off the whole intake and couldnt get past that sucker.






Triangle tabs they say you can push on to get it to come out but i couldnt get anything on it to push em in to even unclip it. The triangle things are at like 3:00 and 6:00 on oposite sides of each other.
 

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Just got the hose off by pressing down on both sides of the red collar while pulling the black hose out.

Thanks!

Could not find the PCV hose except at the local Ford dealer. Went ahead and ordered one to arrive in the morning for $44.

On motorcycles, normally pick up a auto heater hose close to the same bends and ID (about 30% the cost) of the motorcycle radiator hose and cut to fit. Probably should have done this on the PCV hose, but bit the bullet and bought it from Ford.

Many small airplanes vent to atmosphere. Some have an oil separator to let oil blown out of the crankcase vent return to the crankcase. Not knowing much about emissions systems, decided to install the original style PCV hose. Like previously mentioned in the thread, thought about capping the intake manifold where the PCV hose is connected and venting the crankcase to atmosphere, but not sure if this modification would cause the ZX3 to fail the NC emissions test.
 

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Just got the hose off by pressing down on both sides of the red collar while pulling the black hose out.

Thanks!

Could not find the PCV hose except at the local Ford dealer. Went ahead and ordered one to arrive in the morning for $44.

On motorcycles, normally pick up a auto heater hose close to the same bends and ID (about 30% the cost) of the motorcycle radiator hose and cut to fit. Probably should have done this on the PCV hose, but bit the bullet and bought it from Ford.

Many small airplanes vent to atmosphere. Some have an oil separator to let oil blown out of the crankcase vent return to the crankcase. Not knowing much about emissions systems, decided to install the original style PCV hose. Like previously mentioned in the thread, thought about capping the intake manifold where the PCV hose is connected and venting the crankcase to atmosphere, but not sure if this modification would cause the ZX3 to fail the NC emissions test.
Do they sniff around the car under the engine and stuff? I do smell mine so it must be venting quite a bit but im kinda looking for any smell that seems different incase there is a problem.
 

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Do they sniff around the car under the engine and stuff? I do smell mine so it must be venting quite a bit but im kinda looking for any smell that seems different incase there is a problem.
I don't think so.

Guess I am being too cautious and worry about tripping an OBD code or their computer they plug in during the inspection.

My other 4 wheel vehicles:
87 Toyota Pickup and 93 Miata, don't have to worry about emission (computer) testing on the pre-96 vehicles in NC.

Just got back from Harbor Freight with some tools, getting back on the ZX3 project!
 

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Can you post a picture of that clip and how it works because i think ill be taking mine off again here in a few weeks and i dont think i can cut the hose any more.
 

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Here is the red clip removed, back in the fitting, and end of the black tube that fits in the red clip or retainer:







Guess this is the EGR tube & it threads right out?



Edit: Got the EGR tube out:

 

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I dont quite understand how the clip works. Whats holding the right angle thing into the clip? you just pushed the red ring down into the gromet thing and it pulled out?
 

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I dont quite understand how the clip works. Whats holding the right angle thing into the clip? you just pushed the red ring down into the gromet thing and it pulled out?

The socket has a tapered ID, smaller at the top and larger at the bottom.



This allows the clip (red part) to release when pressed down. The ID of the clip also has metal locks that lock the black hose when the clip is pulled up.




What is the trick taking the PCV retainer out to remove the valve?

 

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Cool on that clip ill have to see if i can get mine out easier now.

The PCV clip was a bear for me too. Another stupid ide by ford/mazda IMO

What i did was un bolt the plate this made it easier for me to get a better look at how its working and get jewler tools on it.

What i wound up doing was to use an exacto knife and i cut a little slot under the tabs. Right in the center, making it a "controled break" this way it will give where i want it to not where it decides to break usually making it not usable after that.

I then tried turning the ring a little and with the ring turned i shaved the tab on the part the ring fits over. I shaved the tab on one side on both tabs so when i rotated the ring i could kinda twist it off.

Hope this makes sence?
 

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These arnt my pictures i robbed these from focaljet but i did the same things he did here.

If you look at the top left i marked in red where i just shaved the side of the tab on the plate part so i could twist the ring off. I did both tabs on the same sides so i unscrewed it kinda and it poped out without breaking.

I gutted the new PCV i bought and threw out all the springs and valve junk.



And then i vented mine to the ground the same way he did his over to the drives side of the starter.


Also if you gut the PCV dont forget to plug the back of the intake this is the key to this whole repair plugging that thing so its not leaking.

I decided to just plug mine and let it vent to the ground so i wont ever have to question that line splitting again. I just got a good short hose and a bolt to plug it with and a hose clamp. Might be good to JBweld the hole closed or something also or seal it a cleaner way.
 

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If you look at the top left i marked in red where i just shaved the side of the tab on the plate part so i could twist the ring off. I did both tabs on the
same sides so i unscrewed it kinda and it poped out without breaking.

I gutted the new PCV i bought and threw out all the springs and valve junk.


And then i vented mine to the ground the same way he did his over to the drives side of the starter.



Also if you gut the PCV dont forget to plug the back of the intake this is the key to this whole repair plugging that thing so its not leaking.
Appreciate the info & photos.

Will spend tomorrow cleaning the inside of the (dirty) intake manifold and making upgrades, like your modifications. My PCV hose had so many cracks in it, hard to say how long it's been drawing in unfiltered air. Don't have to add oil between 5000 mile oil/filter changes, so the rings may not be too bad. Will not buy the hose from the Ford Dealership tomorrow, going with a PCV (heater) hose running out below the oil pan, too.

The original hose was cracked on both sides in several places @110,000 miles




Have a neat 1/4" & 3/8" ratchets for tight places, makes it easy removing/installing some of the tough manifold bolts.



Used this little tool to grab the manifold bolts to keep them from getting lost.




Purchased a 17" 1/4" drive extention at Harbor Freight today used to remove intake bolt through the grill.

 

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When i had my intake off the bottom of the plenum was full of oil. When i was painting it i tipped it on its side and a ton of oil poured all over my pants.

I didnt expect it and i wondered how much oil was actually in it.

When the intake manifold is sitting upright like mounted on the car its that bulb at the bottom i think fills up with oil.

You might tip yours up on its side and let it sit in a pan or something and see if yours has collected oil as well.

Some one mentioned though it could help collect dust if any gets in?
 

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Finally decided to replace the PCV hose with a smaller ID, $11, sturdy heater hose for a Toyota Pickup, Gates 18423, about 1/2" ID hose. The OEM hose is about 5/8" ID. Will install a new PCV valve and leave the PCV system functioning as intended.

OEM hose next to the Toyota hose:





Toyota hose cut to size:





Smaller ID hose installed on the intake manifold using
K & N air filter seal grease:



Will be cleaning parts for the rest of the afternoon and hope to install the intake manifold tomorrow.
 

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How much oil would you say came out? I think about 1/4 of a cup leaked out on my pants. But im not sure how much was actually in there.

My hose wasnt split when i did mine but i wasnt sure so rather then question it i just did the delete before any problems did happen.

So since my hose wasnt split we had a hard time with it, the retainer clips that clamp around the hose were hard to get off we wound up cutting it.

I cant imagine fighting with it to put it back on the way it comes stock. Its so tight behind there that there just isnt alot of room.

Not sure how your going to do it but maybe once you have the side on the PCV and clamped you can do the back side of the intake from the bottom? might take 2 people? one to hole the manifold and one to push on the other side. The grease might help though?

When i had mine off i also cleaned my tumble flaps. Mine were pretty grimmy and didnt feel smooth. I didnt wipe them very hard i read they can fall out and then get sucked into the intake ports.

I think im going to buy a new intake manifold though and maybe remove those and then have it retuned with them off to see how it runs without them.

after market intakes dont even have them.
 

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How much oil would you say came out? I think about 1/4 of a cup leaked out on my pants. But im not sure how much was actually in there.

My hose wasnt split when i did mine but i wasnt sure so rather then question it i just did the delete before any problems did happen.

So since my hose wasnt split we had a hard time with it, the retainer clips that clamp around the hose were hard to get off we wound up cutting it.

I cant imagine fighting with it to put it back on the way it comes stock. Its so tight behind there that there just isnt alot of room.

Not sure how your going to do it but maybe once you have the side on the PCV and clamped you can do the back side of the intake from the bottom? might take 2 people? one to hole the manifold and one to push on the other side. The grease might help though?

When i had mine off i also cleaned my tumble flaps. Mine were pretty grimmy and didnt feel smooth. I didnt wipe them very hard i read they can fall out and then get sucked into the intake ports.

I think im going to buy a new intake manifold though and maybe remove those and then have it retuned with them off to see how it runs without them.

after market intakes dont even have them.
May have gotten 1/8 cup of oil out.

Bought a bottle washer & degreaser (safe for plastic/rubber) to clean the manifold.

Thinking about either installing different screw driver operated hose clamps OR it's tight enough when installed with grease, may not need clamps at all. If replacement is needed, a box cutter can be used to cut slits & remove the hose, if clamps are not installed..

Used ropes to secure the manifold when I removed the OEM clamps & hose. Will probably use rope to position the manifold to slip the hose on the manifold last.

Just a thought:

Will be interesting to see how it goes with a sturdy hose. I believe the larger OEM hose cycles like a bellows, making it crack prematurely. The smaller water heater hose is stronger with nylon cord making it less likely to act like a bellows and should be more durable. Hope to wear the car out with this hose installed!

Appreciate the ideas and input!
 
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