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Can you please describe the symptoms/problems you were having as the result of the pcv hose after installing the cossie manifold? I am having weird problems just(but not immediately) after installing the cossie.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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I didn't get a code or anything and the symptoms were different both times. The first time my engine started running like I had a massive vacuum leak, although I couldn't find one. Symptoms included idling like I had a massive cam, terrible gas mileage, lean spikes, etc. The second time the car ran just fine however it just made that super loud whining noise.
That
 

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warneej, any chance you have pictures with the IM off of your PCV delete? I get what you're saying, but I just can't quite picture how you dumped it in my head. Everything else (cap the IM, cap the intake, filter on the breather on the valve cover) all make sense.

I'm just waiting for the weather to clear to (basically) pull off my front end for a super-thorough cleaning and a bit of painting in the engine bay, and would like to take care of the PCV while I have the IM off.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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Your wish is my command, old old old images but they'll work:

First, remove the hose that runs from the intake tube to the valve cover. Plug the intake hose and put a filter (or a filtered catch can is best) here:


Out of here run a hose straight to the ground (I just bought a foot or two of properly sized heater hose and routed it down:


Then using a cap (such as a radiator bypass cap, which come in a multi-pack at your local autoparts store in the HELP! section, use one here and another on the intake tube. I didn't need clamps as they fit snugly but you make the call):


Or if you have a Cosworth then plug the corresponding port on the back of that.
 

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Your wish is my command, old old old images but they'll work:

First, remove the hose that runs from the intake tube to the valve cover. Plug the intake hose and put a filter (or a filtered catch can is best) here:


Out of here run a hose straight to the ground (I just bought a foot or two of properly sized heater hose and routed it down:


Then using a cap (such as a radiator bypass cap, which come in a multi-pack at your local autoparts store in the HELP! section, use one here and another on the intake tube. I didn't need clamps as they fit snugly but you make the call):


Or if you have a Cosworth then plug the corresponding port on the back of that.
Thanks a ton! That 2nd pic is what I was looking for. Rep added.
 

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Your wish is my command, old old old images but they'll work:

Out of here run a hose straight to the ground (I just bought a foot or two of properly sized heater hose and routed it down:
Great Pictures.
Question, does the PCV valve pull out easily from that plastic assy??
Do you know what size hose??
I was looking online at pcv valves and every one looks different.
Tnx, Mike.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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The valve has some sort of removable collar around it. It does not just pull out. The hose is like 5/8s I believe. AutoZone stocks the PCV valve so don't mess around online for it.
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread. My wife's car had this buzzing noise develop recently and eventually threw a code (P0171-System lean). It sounded just like the OP problem. Thank you all again for posting this since I actually came to this thread via a search on Google. You ppl saved me alot of cash since I was able to do it myself(4 hours- had a mishap with the EGR vacuum conn on the intake.. ). Im a Subaru guy but I really appreciate these car forums for all the good knowledge and resources they offer. BTW the car only has 50K.
 

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Today i took off my manifold wich was a pain in the a$$. Specially the bolts in between the manifold. My PVC hose was all messed up and had oil. Do i just go to Autozone and get a piece of hose or order one for my car?
 

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Rock Auto had the hose for 1/3 of what Ford wanted.
 

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So! what is inside the PCV valve? (the "black box"). I always thought PCV was just a hose from the crankcase to the intake to relieve pressure buildup. Not getting the "valve" part.
 

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Captain TMI
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So! what is inside the PCV valve? (the "black box"). I always thought PCV was just a hose from the crankcase to the intake to relieve pressure buildup. Not getting the "valve" part.
What you need to figure it out is to play around with an old PCV valve like a Zetec or V8 valve. If you suck on the hose side, you'll pull the little stopper up, if you blow on it, the stopper will go down and you can't blow through it. When it's bad, you can blow through it. The PCV is connected to engine vacuum after the TB. The oil breather (valve cover connection) is connected in front of the TB in the air intake.

The PCV opens when vacuum is high, and the oil breather works when air intake flow is high. Both of them suck oil smoke/misty oil back into the engine to be burned up.

Go read up on Wiki about it, and you'll find the automotive history behind why modern PCV and oil breather are routed back through the engine. It's for emissions. Yeah, you don't need it to run, but if we didn't have it- we'd be wearing face masks like people in Hong Kong on high pollution days. If anyone wants to see what the USA would be like without EPA and eco-terrorists, keep an eye on China over the next 10 years or so. I'll have to go check, but I think their air pollution is already higher than ours was in the early 70s.
 

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I took whynotthinkwhynot suggestion and read-up on the PCV system. I sounds like the long term solution is to move the PCV valve out from under the intake and use an oil separator (if you so choose) to extract the oil before it gets to the intake. Also, tap a new hole in the intake in a more human friendly spot. Can the stock PCV valve be gutted (remove the internal valving)?

This should be 100% legal as were not dumping anything to atmosphere. Were simply relocating the PCV, and extracting the oil component so as not to gunk up the intake internals (as fast).
 

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Quick note: Removal of radiator or dropping it, is not needed. With all 1/4" drive tools I was able to remove the hidden bolt without needing to even remove the grill.. Got some super long 20"+ extensions from Harbor Freight for less than 10.00 too. Also, having universals or flex socket adapters makes this task much easier. Thankyou for the writeup though!!!
 

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pvc hose

I found this very helpful in replacing the PVC hose.
1 shortcut to save some time.
i used 2 3" extensions and i was able to reach the center intake bolt without removing the radiator
 

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Then using a cap (such as a radiator bypass cap, which come in a multi-pack at your local autoparts store in the HELP! section, use one here and another on the intake tube. I didn't need clamps as they fit snugly but you make the call):
Some of the wording is confusing for my pea brain. When you say using a cap put it here and another on the intake tube. You mean the cold air intake tube?

Not on the intake manifold? I only plugged one hole on my intake MANIFOLD.

If you suck on the hose side, you'll pull the little stopper up, if you blow on it, the stopper will go down and you can't blow through it. When it's bad, you can blow through it.
This one im not sure i get as well. When i deleted mine, i bought a new PCV valve and i cut the end off and let all the springs and valve fall out. So now its just an OPEN elbow. I then put a hose on the PCV elbow and ran that down to the ground. I left my top like it was hooked to the intake to filter the crankcase vent. The top is the vent IN, the PCV is the pressure OUT right?

Also when you say its bad you can blow threw it? Tom said that if you just gut the PCV and leave it as an open vent to the ground its fine. I figured removing all the springs and valve will prevent it from ever clogging and failing.

And by capping the back of the intake you dont have to worry about it leaking and sucking in unfiltered air from back there.
 

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Captain TMI
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This one im not sure i get as well. When i deleted mine, i bought a new PCV valve and i cut the end off and let all the springs and valve fall out. So now its just an OPEN elbow. I then put a hose on the PCV elbow and ran that down to the ground. I left my top like it was hooked to the intake to filter the crankcase vent. The top is the vent IN, the PCV is the pressure OUT right?
By the top, I assume you mean the oil breather. To understand the PCV, you should understand why there is a PCV. It's there only for emissions. Back in the day, crankcase pressure was released the same as you have your setup. When people first started caring about reducing emissions, the PCV was invented. It's a valve that prevents air from flowing from the intake to the crankcase, but not from the crankcase to the intake manifold. There is a difference between vacuum in front of throttle body, and in the intake manifold depending on throttle plate position. With the throttle plate closed, there's a ton of vacuum in the intake manifold, and very little on the other side of the TB where the oil breather connects. At WOT, there's more vacuum at the oil breather than at the PCV, which with a good spring would be closed. Pressure is fairly well equalized between the top of the head and the crankcase anyway- unless the particular engine puts a ton of oil at the top, and has tiny drains to the bottom.

I was just giving people an easier way to test the PCV valve. Blow through the vacuum line hose, and if you don't feel resistance, then you need a new PCV valve. This is how it works for NA engines. Tom advises turbo engineers to gut the PCV and vent crankcase gasses to the atmosphere because boost would push past the PCV valve. It's not a perfect seal, but it doesn't have to be in an application where only vacuum is applied to it. I'm not quite sure how factory turbo PCV's are done, but emissions regs would require the crankcase gasses to be either caught in a catch can or somehow sucked back into the intake.
 
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