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Retired Focus Addict
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to be trading my TB for an aluminum head and I was wondering.. I can drop that head in right after I get it right there are no other parts I need right???

The only thing I am going to be doing to this head is port and polish.
 

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what are you talking about? the stock head is aluminum.
 

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Retired Focus Addict
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So does that mean I can't port and polish the head??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
aero_student said:
what are you talking about? the stock head is aluminum.
I know the stock one is alumimum but I want to port and polish the head and I don't feel like being without a car for a few days so I thought I would buy a spare one so while that one is being worked on I can still drive my car... is that what you mean when you are telling me the stock one is aluminum???

Can the stock aluminum head be port n polished???
 

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WickedlyFastST said:
I know the stock one is alumimum but I want to port and polish the head and I don't feel like being without a car for a few days so I thought I would buy a spare one so while that one is being worked on I can still drive my car... is that what you mean when you are telling me the stock one is aluminum???

Can the stock aluminum head be port n polished???
Yes. However, reading around here and on FJ you'll learn the Duratec head is very good in stock form. Unless you are pushing some really strong HP & TQ numbers the port & polish isn't going to give much value for the money.

Also, in another thread someone pointed out the steps work required to replace the head and I was suprised at the number of things I hadn't thought about -- it's not a quickie job.
 

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porting and polishing is fine, but while you are at it, you should upgrade your valve springs, oversize your valves, and upgrade to high perforamce studs

also porting and polishing is usless if you don't over size valves
 

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Sückn' n Blown
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Removing the head while the engine is in the car isn't an easy task. You need to remove the crank pulley, possibly a bunch of the accecories, support the engine from the bottom, remove the passenger motor mount, removing the front cover, remove the timing chain, remove the timing chain guides, remove the header, remove the intake manifold, drain the coolant, remove the coolant hoses. Once the head is off, disassembly is easy. However, assembly isn't, due to the design of the spring retainer keepers.

You are looking at a lot of work for small gains on your current setup. I have a head right now getting a custom 3-angle valve job, but I have a whole new engine going in with a built bottom end. The 3-angle was recommended over the P&P; stating that even for my new engine, P&P won't show much.
 

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Porting of the Duratec head is really only necessary above about 230-240bhp. It flows really well on a flow rig up to those bhp's, once you are going for 250-280 you must flow the head. Standard Valves are fine up to 280bhp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok well if I am going to have about 170- 180 whp how much bhp will I have??
 

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I think its a 12% drivetrain loss on the mtx... so 175whp x .12 drivetrain loss = 21bhp loss = 196bhp total. even though your not in the 240+ bhp range id still say go for it while you have the parts and money. that way when you do a few more mods later on you wont have to touch the head. just dont get as drastic a p&p job. maby more like polish and valve job. well thats what I would do if I had the parts and extra bit of $$$
 
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