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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys.

If I disconnect the electrical connector at my EGR, do you think it would go full Open or full Closed?

Looking for a way to temporally disable EGR, and have it stay Closed.

Note: yes, I expect it will throw a code.
 

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I would think it would stay closed. On my old Saturn we used to pull off the valve and put a piece of sheet metal (beer can) under the valve. Blocked the flow for testing AND prevented a code. The Fofo EGR is a different animal though...I think...

Edit: I think you could get away with the beer can method on the Fofo if you needed to (pic below). Might be a good idea to take it off and clean it out as it could be more the source of your problem than it's functionality. Same goes for your throttlebody; if there is gunk on the back of it clean it off using a rag while holding it open or pull the TB and do a more thorough job.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike.

TB is clean/was clean last year, will check it again next few days/weeks.

Great idea on EGR internal cleaning. Chances are no human has been inside there since 2003. Cool pic above. After cleaning, might do the beer can trick as things progress; do it for a day or two as a test.... thanks again.

Anyone here seen EGR valve get gunked-up and cleaning fixed it, or seemed to fix something? When I had my IM off, I saw the inside of the EGR tube and it was dry as a bone, suggesting my EGR gasses have no oily residue at all. Also, where EGR tube meets the inside of IM, it was totally dry.

My guess was EGR would go full Open if electrically disconnected. IF I had a EGR mod/delete blanking plate mounted, I could watch it operate and answer my own question fer sure.

BTW this thread is semi-related to two others:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/322269-duratec-engine-stumble-stutter-misfire-4.html

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/duratec-performance-2003-2007/562698-what-happens-inside-my-tb-when-i-press-gas-pedal.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Mike, I think your EGR picture just answered my question. I think I can see the (spring loaded?) plunger resting in the down position (is fully Open) so it must do this/probably does this when no power is applied. I will confirm this on mine when I clean it.

Edit: Wait, i think my eyes are deceiving me. Now I am unsure. Sorry.
 

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Lol stop speculating and pick up a wrench. If you can't get to it now; stop thinking about it. If you over think things you eventually make yourself believe that a solar flare is causing your problems lol

Edit: plunger down would be closed, wouldn't it?? The plunger is what blocks the connection between the 2 big holes, 1 leading to the exhaust and the other into the intake (or wherever the engine inhales the EGR gasses)
 

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Don't forget about coolant leak when removing it.

Coolant flows from head through small hole into EGR, then out through the attached hose (see tube in picture).

I'd bet on default closed, typical for EGR's & lets the engine run best if it fails.
 

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Thanks, sailor; was wondering what that tube was for. Makes a block a little more difficult and probably not worth the effort...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lol stop speculating and pick up a wrench. If you can't get to it now; stop thinking about it. If you over think things you eventually make yourself believe that a solar flare is causing your problems lol
Fine. Have it your way. I will take solar flares off my list. I was curious about what it did while the engine was running, and what it would do if I pulled the plug. This is not a case of me asking un-necessary or un-natural questions or being lazy. The question evolved and after seeing your pic THEN IT HIT ME that I could just pull the EGR off the car and look to see if it is open or closed when at rest... and this would answer my question. BTW, what's a wrench?

Edit: plunger down would be closed, wouldn't it?? The plunger is what blocks the connection between the 2 big holes, 1 leading to the exhaust and the other into the intake (or wherever the engine inhales the EGR gasses)
For whatever reason, you and I are not seeing it the same way.
Plunger down = the two cavities are connected = open.
Plunger up = plunger is in the middle = the two cavities are not connected = closed.

Coolant flows from head through small hole into EGR, then out through the attached hose (see tube in picture).
Face-palm! I knew about the coolant, but forgot about it when considering blocking the exhaust ports with beer can idea. Pretty sure it would leak coolant + might mess-up the seal/gasket if I did it, so that idea is scrapped.

I will post back after cleaning it and confirm which state the valve is in when at rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I disconnect the electrical connector at my EGR, do you think it would go full Open or full Closed?
Local autozone had this EGR on the shelf. Duralast box, not an OEM part. Looked at it, here is the answer...

With no power, the plunger is spring-loaded Closed. Good guess sailor.

I was able to get a fingernail on it, and move the plunger, which gave me an idea of how much force/drag a new one has. The spring is not weak nor hard. Hope mine has similar behavior once I get around to cleaning it.

Also, what I said earlier is correct...
Plunger up = plunger is in the middle = the two cavities are not connected = closed.

Because of this news, plans to clean my EGR are postponed. When I want to eliminate EGR gases from going into my IM, I will just pull the connector off... assuming my EGR is not stuck open (return spring not working!?) this will work. Will do this temporarily as part of my troubleshooting process regarding engine performance problems in another thread.

Now I am waiting for our standard hot days (100-105) that will better help me reproduce the bog and stutter symptoms. Thanks for your help gents.
 

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I'd just remove it all together & replace it w/ a plate. Use a hose connector to connect the heater hoses together.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'd just remove it all together & replace it w/ a plate. Use a hose connector to connect the heater hoses together.
After some stupid "pull the plug" tests, I might do that. I have seen the Massive EGR delete kit ($32) and ready to do it, even before knowing this will help me during my hot weather symptoms.

Hell! I have already imagined how to spoof the electrical side, so the PCM does not even know I removed it... because I have no Tune. I might replace the EGR with a load resistor. But!-> PCM might detect a "flow' problem and set a code anyway. Trailblazer or....?

Thanks man!
 

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Yeah thats a great way to go. I just don't care for the purple,,,,, Since you had the i/m off I would of removed the egr pipe off the head.
 

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EGR delete will hurt MPGs as sailor said in your other post. If you don't care about that, the block off might be the fix to your problem, Marde. Do you have any other mods to the engine? Maybe you just need a tune to "clean up" how the engine is running??
 

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Yeah thats a great way to go. I just don't care for the purple,,,,, Since you had the i/m off I would of removed the egr pipe off the head.
I was thinking about removing it when I had my manifold off but do you really need to remove it to install the delete plate? It seems like it just helps direct the flow deeper into the manifold. Leaving it on and still doing the delete plate wouldn't have any ill effect other than the weight right?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
EGR delete will hurt MPGs as sailor said in your other post....
I forgot he said that, but yeah, hurt MPG on his truck. OK. Guess it does on our Foci too then. Did it hurt your MPG Felix?

No mods except lifetime air filter was replaced with a (Stealth) K&N cone. All symptoms were on car before and after the filter mod.

A PCM tune? Yeah, been wishing/wanting to do that forever. Seems odd for me; old car, not looking to do any performance mods so....? Tune could still be used and enjoyed, and might even tune-out my weird summertime symptoms... and I am considering porting my TB.... so....

We hit 100 outside today, and symptoms were barely there, but need to run it longer. Fricking 4th gear bumps-in at 42 mph with light throttle and I could feel a rumble & the onset of bogging; do not get this in cooler weather. THAT is something I would LOVE to tune-> shift points!!!!

I usually drive it with OD off, but was intentionally running with it OD on, in search of my hot weather 4th gear bog or bucking.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was thinking about removing it when I had my manifold off but do you really need to remove it to install the delete plate?
Not sure why he said that. No, tube does not need to be removed when doing an EGR delete.

I would never remove that tube while EGR is still on the car. It is porting-in HOT air.
 

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Ya thats what I thought, I just wanted to verify and avoid taking that stupid manifold off again when I delete the EGR. Thanks.
 

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Its not necessary to remove the egr pipe off the head when you delete the egr valve. Just makes it sightly easier to install the i/m w/o.
 

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EGR delete will hurt MPGs as sailor said in your other post. If you don't care about that, the block off might be the fix to your problem, Marde. Do you have any other mods to the engine? Maybe you just need a tune to "clean up" how the engine is running??
That very well could be.^^^^^^
 
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