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Discussion Starter #1
I have been in the process of rebuilding the suspension on my SVT (bearings, support bearing, eurethane bushing, dampners, ball joints, links, etc). Replacing it all except axles since car has only 105k and no noise from CV's.

I have been taking my time and today I was finishing up the front installation. I had everything but wheels installed and I was torquing the last two nuts, the drive axle nuts. I have a large roll-around full of Snap-On tools and torque wrenches from my Aviation days. I have been using a Haynes Manual and bouncing that off the "How to" section here.

I was reusing the drive axle nuts since I assumed they have only been removed once prior for a clutch replacement under warranty (I have owned vehicle since new).

The left axle torque went fine, torqued to 150 ft lbs, then 233ft lbs (wife holding the brake). When I went to torque the right, clicked at 150 ft lbs. When I was attempting to torque to 233 ft lbs, that is when the problems started. I felt I was nearing the clicking point for 233 ft lbs when the nut suddenly got easier to turn (uh oh). Perhaps the axle wasn't seated into the hub all the way? I decided to remove the nut and inspect. No dice, the nut just spun. Well, after some creative work with a gear puller, hammer, chissel, I finally got the nut off. Both the nut and axle are toast. What a pain. Now I have to remove the axle again and the whole process of disassembling the ball joints, etc.

I am going to buy an A-1 Cardone half shaft from Rockauto.com (I ordered all the Moog Chassis parts from them and they are great!). Will the new axle come with a replacement nut? If so, will the nut be of decent quality?

That brings me to my next question. I didn't notice until I removed the nut the second time, but there is some play in the hub and bearing in the spindle. I know it takes the 233 ft lbs to full seat the bearing, but is this normal? I just replaced the bearing and I don't want to go through that again.

What a pain, I was torquing the last nut before I install the wheels and move to the rear.

Any advice is appreciated.

Vincent
 

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C2H5OH
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info. I will call Rockauto tomorrow and tell them I need a nut with the drive axle. I will take my chances with the bearing considering they haven't been driven on yet.

After reading some posts I guess it isn't uncommon that the drive axle nuts strip. If I ever go through this again, it will be new hardware when I reassemble.

Thanks again,
Vincent
 

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If you haven't driven with the nut not torqued you haven't hurt anything. When you torque the nut to spec you are simply "pinching up" the hub, the bearing inner races and the outer axleshaft, and applying a large tension load (stretching) the outer axle shaft so that the "pinchup" will be maintained under all driving conditions. Torquing the nut to the torque spec is really important.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I received the drive axle from Rockauto and it did come with the axle nut. Also, I thought I ordered the right half shaft without the intermediate shaft but the package contained the entire right side axle and axle support bearing, what a BONUS. I didn't have to mess with taking the old one apart.

I got the new one installed quickly and now I need to work the rear suspension before I can drive it.

Thanks again for the advice.
Vincent
 
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