Due to the number of high speed stops that i seem to be making these days, I have been pondering cross drilling the front rotors on my SVT. What do you guys think? Ofcourse i will be balancing them at my friends machine shop. Comments?
Why buy new lowering springs when you could just buy new ones from a vendor for more money?
I just bought new rotors, and if there isn't a whole lot of difference between vendor bought drilled rotors and my SVT rotors that I can drill, then I'll save myself a $150 and do it my self. I have a shop and about $10,000 worth of tools. Why not do it my self?
just making a point, not trying to attack you....
Btw, full set of USED Spax, purple powder coated springs from coil over set. front and rear. I have the dampeners too, but front right and rear right dammaged.
If I were going to go with cross drilled rotors. I would feel more comfortable buying a good set from a reputable company. I kinda think they are a waste of money though. I'm not judging your knowledge on the topic, but I would feel safer knowing some engineers did the design and research etc...
If your confident, have the tools, the know how (camfer the holes etc...), then go for it. I believe there may be more to it than drilling holes thru the rotor though.
there is a LOT of rotational mass in braking systems.....I would just buy manufactured ones......brakes STOP you.....I wouldn't want to wonder if they are going to work, or if they are going to disintegrate.
Well, thanks for the constructive input. I do believe it is "chamfered" I have done this to on farm equiptment where balance is not as (but still is) important. I was mainly wondering wether or not barkes that came cross drill are of a different material composition or not. that would be the mail difference. I know people that have taken their rotors to a local machine shop and had them drilled.
You have to be really careful where you drill too....cross drilled rotors usually don't have straight cooling veins like a normal vented disc brake....they are curved and the drilled holes are in aline with the curves so that air will get sucked or pushed through the holes. Cross drilled isn't the best for the street b/c they will crack...regardless if they are chamfered or not...it happens...especially if you drill through a vein...that can cause the rotor to shatter b/c it weakens the structural integrity of the rotor.
Upgrade your pads. Cross drilling is not needed, and will only make matters worse. You are removing mass from your brake disc, and the less mass it has, it gets hotter faster, which leads to brake fade. Also, if made incorrectly, they will lead to cracks, and eventually complete failure.
Ok, you guys win. (bowing out gracefully) I think that i got that answer that i was looking for. Don't do it. It seams that the physical make up and design of the Cross drilled rotors are different. that's what i was trying to figure out. It does make sense. I also do have upgraded pads. (green stuff) I was mailny trying to prevent this new set of rotors from warping the way my last set did. I am so hard on brakes, I think I'll just save some chedar and get a big brake kit. Thanks guys.
1. If you are hard on the brakes while commuting, either slow down to look ahead.
2. Properly bedding in brake pads and ensuring your wheel lugnuts are properly torqued will significantly reduce warping or uneven pad transfer
Try beginning with a quality set of rotors (Brembo) and have them cryo-treated. Brakes warp due to the effects of excessive heat. The more mass your rotors have, the more resistant to warping they are. Cryo-treatment acts in some way to "align" the molecules of the rotor and from all I've read, makes them more resistant to warping and wearing.
It's not as easy as you think. If you don't treat the edges of holes correctly, it will scrape away your pads like a cheese grater. Another thing to do to save the brakes is don't hold the brakes after a hard stop. After coming to a stop, let go of the brakes. If that's not possible at least let it roll somewhat.
I have high quality rotors, atleast i would hope so for the price. They Are factory spec SVT rotors straight from MotorCraft. They aren't NAPA pieces. But as I said before, You guys win.
I have cross drilled rotors before to allow for quicker cooling. (not on a car, KART, i love building KARTS) I realize that this OBVIOUSLY takes away mass. Un-chamfered holes or slots would give the cheese grader effect. The reason that anyone would want rotors that cool down quicker, longer life. wrarping a rotor will kill a rotor just as fast, if not faster than disintigration. (wear) I have killed rotors in just a couple high speed stops before.
I'm just going to rehash, there is nothing wrong with your rotors. I track with a bunch of guys, and a lot of them have SVTs with stock rotors and race pads. If there was anywhere that you are on the brakes hard and often, is on a road course. And not one of them ever mentioned warping their rotors.
Cross drilling or slotting rotors won't make them cool faster...it has the reverse effect, with the mass that is taken away when its drilled or slotted the rotors will heat up significantly faster and take about the same time to cool as non cross-drilled or slotted rotors. Cross drilling is only beneficial if your brake pads produce excess waste gas when they're used under hard braking (which 99% of pads haven't done since the 70's), and slotting is only useful in offroad conditions where the slot will continuously wipe the surface of the pad clean (as well as wear it down faster.) In normal street conditions the increased surface area from slotting or cross-drilling is worthless compared to the mass of a normal rotor. Just get a good set of aftermarket blank rotors and you'll be fine...the SVT in stock form has the same braking characteristics as a Porsche 911. The problem is it suffers from the same hard pad/soft rotor combo that Ford is so fond of, probably because it means people will have to constantly be bringing their cars back to the dealer for new pads and rotors.