How old are your battery cables and your starter?
Dreaded SVT Flooding/Hard Start Problem
Hello all, I have been viewing the forum from afar for a while now, and have looked at and read every thread on this issue. I am out of ideas.
The dreaded SVT flooding, hard start problem.
I have a 2003 SVT, love it (most of the time), and it has been giving me some problems. I have 151,000 miles. It has been relatively painless and aside from normal maintenance, relatively forgiving. This is my first and only SVT, have a regular Zetec and an 06 ST as well, love them too.
The SVT has developed the (apparently normal) hard start when cooler out. Once/if it starts once, it will start all day. Leaving for work is its problem (same though).
The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor was leaking fuel into the vacuum line, so I replaced it, with new SP524 plugs. I was hoping that was it, nope. I pulled the valve cover and checked timing, and it is all still happy. I have tried the WOT trick and it doesn't help. However, on a scanner, my TPS only reads 94.1% at WOT. Normal?
I have checked for vacuum leaks at intake and hoses. I have tried unplugging the MAF. The only code I have is a downstream O2 sensor heater circuit. I cant imagine the rear O2 causing a starting problem, but that is next on the list to fix.
I need to get this fixed, as my little brother drives the Zetec, my wife drives the Duratec, and its getting cold, so hopping on the Grom to go to work when the SVT is moody, wont be an option for much longer.
Any input is appreciated.
Thank you!
The dreaded SVT flooding, hard start problem.
I have a 2003 SVT, love it (most of the time), and it has been giving me some problems. I have 151,000 miles. It has been relatively painless and aside from normal maintenance, relatively forgiving. This is my first and only SVT, have a regular Zetec and an 06 ST as well, love them too.
The SVT has developed the (apparently normal) hard start when cooler out. Once/if it starts once, it will start all day. Leaving for work is its problem (same though).
The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor was leaking fuel into the vacuum line, so I replaced it, with new SP524 plugs. I was hoping that was it, nope. I pulled the valve cover and checked timing, and it is all still happy. I have tried the WOT trick and it doesn't help. However, on a scanner, my TPS only reads 94.1% at WOT. Normal?
I have checked for vacuum leaks at intake and hoses. I have tried unplugging the MAF. The only code I have is a downstream O2 sensor heater circuit. I cant imagine the rear O2 causing a starting problem, but that is next on the list to fix.
I need to get this fixed, as my little brother drives the Zetec, my wife drives the Duratec, and its getting cold, so hopping on the Grom to go to work when the SVT is moody, wont be an option for much longer.
Any input is appreciated.
Thank you!
21 - 40 of 45 Posts
You might want to do a voltage drop test while you are trying to start it. See how many volts you are losing.
Original, as far as I can tell.How old are your battery cables and your starter?
On initial crank, voltage drops to 10.2 or so.You might want to do a voltage drop test while you are trying to start it. See how many volts you are losing.
PCV parts came in today, going to change those soon like you suggested a few days ago. Nobody in town had them in stock. My PCV hose is collapsed mostly, if not all the way shut at the first bend by the intake. Would think it’d run rough if it was completely shut, but it needed replaced so I’m doing that after dinner.
Dont yet , easy way to check for Vac leak everywhere is get a Cigar and do a smoke test , if your not sure how call meI am taking a shot on intake gaskets, had Oreilly bring them to me at work today. I am also going to swap out injectors, as I already have some of those.
Tom
Wrong PCV hose. What else did I expect in this nightmare? 😒😒
Cheap straws at that, lol.
I did the cigar test, no blatantly obvious leaks. I’m grasping at straws here, at this point.Dont yet , easy way to check for Vac leak everywhere is get a Cigar and do a smoke test , if your not sure how call me
Tom
Cheap straws at that, lol.
10.2 volts is not enough. Have the battery load tested.Original, as far as I can tell.
On initial crank, voltage drops to 10.2 or so.
PCV parts came in today, going to change those soon like you suggested a few days ago. Nobody in town had them in stock. My PCV hose is collapsed mostly, if not all the way shut at the first bend by the intake. Would think it’d run rough if it was completely shut, but it needed replaced so I’m doing that after dinner.
Load tests good, is only a couple months old. Could be partially drained due to extended crank times. I am going to charge it over night and load test again tomorrow at work.10.2 volts is not enough. Have the battery load tested.
Bought a PCV hose for an early escape that ended up working until my correct hose comes in from Tasca.
Finished my vacuum lines, rejuvenated the connectors and confirmed seal with black silicone.
Fired on 3rd revolution, after sitting for 4 hours. (After 4 hours earlier today, it cranked for several minutes before firing.)
Not going to plug it in tonight, though I’ll keep the cord out and accessible for if she fights me.
Hopeful. 🙏🏻
Nope. Back to the drawing board. I was hoping the pinched PCV hose was messing with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum, and thus, over fueling.
Not the case. Going to figure out how to rig up an actual pressure gauge on the fuel pump and go from there. Putting a new fuel filter on it for kicks and grins, but don’t think that would cause it to flood. I’ve swapped out all spark related things for new stuff. It’s almost gotta be leaky injectors wetting/fouling the plugs after the car is turned off, bleeding pressure from the rail.
Not the case. Going to figure out how to rig up an actual pressure gauge on the fuel pump and go from there. Putting a new fuel filter on it for kicks and grins, but don’t think that would cause it to flood. I’ve swapped out all spark related things for new stuff. It’s almost gotta be leaky injectors wetting/fouling the plugs after the car is turned off, bleeding pressure from the rail.
Find someone with a SCT X3 or X4 Flasher to barrow any Ford X3 or X4 will work
Tom
Tom
Sounds almost the same as my problem. Was there a resolution to this one?
Sold it. Guy I sold it to swore he had it figured out, and sold it as well. Currently for sale by the 3rd owner after me.Sounds almost the same as my problem. Was there a resolution to this one?
That may be my solution too. My friend the used car dealer says the prices at the auto auctions are pretty ridiculous now.Sold it. Guy I sold it to swore he had it figured out, and sold it as well. Currently for sale by the 3rd owner after me.
All this. And no one has found a solution? I just bought mine. Drove PERFECT for 6 days. I went to check codes because the PO welded the o2 bung in wrong spot to watch fuel trims, noticed the IMRC was p1518 p1520 so I inspected it. Determined it was bad. Dropped the car down off the jack. And started it, decided to run through some function test on the Modis and during idle control test the car died and would not start back. Smelt flooded, and now here I am reading you guys post and having a flooded car that I do not know what to do with.
You have vacuum leaks. The svt is pretty finicky and has a horrible cold start issue. Furthermore, no one wants to do the work involved to fix it.All this. And no one has found a solution? I just bought mine. Drove PERFECT for 6 days. I went to check codes because the PO welded the o2 bung in wrong spot to watch fuel trims, noticed the IMRC was p1518 p1520 so I inspected it. Determined it was bad. Dropped the car down off the jack. And started it, decided to run through some function test on the Modis and during idle control test the car died and would not start back. Smelt flooded, and now here I am reading you guys post and having a flooded car that I do not know what to do with.
They just whine and try to blame another component after they are told how to fix it. It doesn't cost more than $50 dollars to fix but alot of labor.All this. And no one has found a solution? I just bought mine. Drove PERFECT for 6 days. I went to check codes because the PO welded the o2 bung in wrong spot to watch fuel trims, noticed the IMRC was p1518 p1520 so I inspected it. Determined it was bad. Dropped the car down off the jack. And started it, decided to run through some function test on the Modis and during idle control test the car died and would not start back. Smelt flooded, and now here I am reading you guys post and having a flooded car that I do not know what to do with.
If I have piqued your interest send me a pm and I will tell you what you need to do.
I pmed you. Thank you for actually replying and offering assistance at fixing this issue.
You are welcome.I pmed you. Thank you for actually replying and offering assistance at fixing this issue.
For the record, was this (quoting from your older post) the advice?
For my 2 SVT'S, replacing all of the vacuum lines and then putting new intake gaskets between the head and intake, retightening the intake couplers eliminated my cold start problems.
When we pulled the head on ours (bent valves) last summer, those intake gaskets were indeed flat and hard.
I replaced a lot of small things including those, PCV line, vacuum hoses and front O2 sensor as well as the distributor connector. We never had any starting issues but we DID have an occasional "half warmed up" stall that has never recurred.
For my 2 SVT'S, replacing all of the vacuum lines and then putting new intake gaskets between the head and intake, retightening the intake couplers eliminated my cold start problems.
When we pulled the head on ours (bent valves) last summer, those intake gaskets were indeed flat and hard.
I replaced a lot of small things including those, PCV line, vacuum hoses and front O2 sensor as well as the distributor connector. We never had any starting issues but we DID have an occasional "half warmed up" stall that has never recurred.
I have found that intake warpage at the throttle body boss and the iac boss cause dynamic vaccum leaks undetectable by smoke test. I file both bosses flat as well as sanding the bottom of the iac valve flat as it has a die cast body and the sealing surface is not flat.For the record, was this (quoting from your older post) the advice?
For my 2 SVT'S, replacing all of the vacuum lines and then putting new intake gaskets between the head and intake, retightening the intake couplers eliminated my cold start problems.
When we pulled the head on ours (bent valves) last summer, those intake gaskets were indeed flat and hard.
I replaced a lot of small things including those, PCV line, vacuum hoses and front O2 sensor as well as the distributor connector. We never had any starting issues but we DID have an occasional "half warmed up" stall that has never recurred.
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