If you still have the black plastic vacuum lines you need to replace them. Save the elbows and get a Dorman vacuum fitting kit from o'Reilly's and some rubber vacuum hose. Vacuum leaks are the number one cause of this. Other culprits are the ignition coil and the electrical connector to the coil.
Dreaded SVT Flooding/Hard Start Problem
Hello all, I have been viewing the forum from afar for a while now, and have looked at and read every thread on this issue. I am out of ideas.
The dreaded SVT flooding, hard start problem.
I have a 2003 SVT, love it (most of the time), and it has been giving me some problems. I have 151,000 miles. It has been relatively painless and aside from normal maintenance, relatively forgiving. This is my first and only SVT, have a regular Zetec and an 06 ST as well, love them too.
The SVT has developed the (apparently normal) hard start when cooler out. Once/if it starts once, it will start all day. Leaving for work is its problem (same though).
The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor was leaking fuel into the vacuum line, so I replaced it, with new SP524 plugs. I was hoping that was it, nope. I pulled the valve cover and checked timing, and it is all still happy. I have tried the WOT trick and it doesn't help. However, on a scanner, my TPS only reads 94.1% at WOT. Normal?
I have checked for vacuum leaks at intake and hoses. I have tried unplugging the MAF. The only code I have is a downstream O2 sensor heater circuit. I cant imagine the rear O2 causing a starting problem, but that is next on the list to fix.
I need to get this fixed, as my little brother drives the Zetec, my wife drives the Duratec, and its getting cold, so hopping on the Grom to go to work when the SVT is moody, wont be an option for much longer.
Any input is appreciated.
Thank you!
The dreaded SVT flooding, hard start problem.
I have a 2003 SVT, love it (most of the time), and it has been giving me some problems. I have 151,000 miles. It has been relatively painless and aside from normal maintenance, relatively forgiving. This is my first and only SVT, have a regular Zetec and an 06 ST as well, love them too.
The SVT has developed the (apparently normal) hard start when cooler out. Once/if it starts once, it will start all day. Leaving for work is its problem (same though).
The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor was leaking fuel into the vacuum line, so I replaced it, with new SP524 plugs. I was hoping that was it, nope. I pulled the valve cover and checked timing, and it is all still happy. I have tried the WOT trick and it doesn't help. However, on a scanner, my TPS only reads 94.1% at WOT. Normal?
I have checked for vacuum leaks at intake and hoses. I have tried unplugging the MAF. The only code I have is a downstream O2 sensor heater circuit. I cant imagine the rear O2 causing a starting problem, but that is next on the list to fix.
I need to get this fixed, as my little brother drives the Zetec, my wife drives the Duratec, and its getting cold, so hopping on the Grom to go to work when the SVT is moody, wont be an option for much longer.
Any input is appreciated.
Thank you!
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I do still have some black plastic lines, most I have replaced with hose when i did the FRP sensor, because well, they didnt give me a choice. I have been talking to Vince about his "fix kit" for them.If you still have the black plastic vacuum lines you need to replace them. Save the elbows and get a Dorman vacuum fitting kit from o'Reilly's and some rubber vacuum hose. Vacuum leaks are the number one cause of this. Other culprits are the ignition coil and the electrical connector to the coil.
Is the SVTF coil the same as a normal Zetec? I think I have one in the garage and may swap it out to the known good one, just because.
However, on the side of vacuum leaks, I have tried the old school carb cleaner on lines and around intake areas to check for vacuum leaks to no avail. Is there a better method on these cars?
Svt and zetec are the same coil. Again, if the connector to the coil is original you need to replace it. Smoke test with a cigar is best . Replace that black plastic!I do still have some black plastic lines, most I have replaced with hose when i did the FRP sensor, because well, they didnt give me a choice. I have been talking to Vince about his "fix kit" for them.
Is the SVTF coil the same as a normal Zetec? I think I have one in the garage and may swap it out to the known good one, just because.
However, on the side of vacuum leaks, I have tried the old school carb cleaner on lines and around intake areas to check for vacuum leaks to no avail. Is there a better method on these cars?
Hate cigars, but I guess i will deal with it! LOL.Svt and zetec are the same coil. Again, if the connector to the coil is original you need to replace it. Smoke test with a cigar is best . Replace that black plastic!
Thank you. I will check it out.
Anything else I should look for?
That's it for right now.Hate cigars, but I guess i will deal with it! LOL.
Thank you. I will check it out.
Anything else I should look for?
My method for cold start has never failed. Turn key to on. Fasten seat belt. Turn key to start when the fuel light goes out. If it doesn't crank in 3 seconds, turn key off. Hold accelerator to floor. Attempt restart.
On the 20th, it was the worst it has ever been. It was 40 degrees out. I turned the key on and let the pump prime, and tried to start it, and it spit and sputtered but wouldn't fire off. Tried the WOT, same thing. I fiddled with it back and forth a couple times, and got irritated and held the key until it started. It took about 5 minutes of cranking, then it started. Last night, I dug out the cord for the block heater. Plugged it in, it was 38 degrees this morning, fired on the 3 revolution. Went out for lunch, primed key, and had to rest my foot on the throttle to get it to start. I replaced the vacuum lines with NiCop brake line, like Vince suggested. No help, aside from peace of mind.
I have a motorcraft coil, and coil pigtail being brought to me as we speak to try that this evening.
I have a motorcraft coil, and coil pigtail being brought to me as we speak to try that this evening.
Replace the coolant temperature sensor. Clean the maf sensor.On the 20th, it was the worst it has ever been. It was 40 degrees out. I turned the key on and let the pump prime, and tried to start it, and it spit and sputtered but wouldn't fire off. Tried the WOT, same thing. I fiddled with it back and forth a couple times, and got irritated and held the key until it started. It took about 5 minutes of cranking, then it started. Last night, I dug out the cord for the block heater. Plugged it in, it was 38 degrees this morning, fired on the 3 revolution. Went out for lunch, primed key, and had to rest my foot on the throttle to get it to start. I replaced the vacuum lines with NiCop brake line, like Vince suggested. No help, aside from peace of mind.
I have a motorcraft coil, and coil pigtail being brought to me as we speak to try that this evening.
The coolant temp sensor reads accurately on a scan tool. Is there more than one? One that would tell fuel and one that tells temp? Or is it like older fords with 1 2 wire for the computer and a one wire thermal switch for the gauge? IAT also reads within a few degrees of correct as well. (61° F vs 66° Actual)
Both read accurately cold? Until you change the coil and the coil pigtail the only other low hanging fruit is the pcv hose and the spark plugs. Fouled plugs will not start a cold engine.The coolant temp sensor reads accurately on a scan tool. Is there more than one? One that would tell fuel and one that tells temp? Or is it like older fords with 1 2 wire for the computer and a one wire thermal switch for the gauge? IAT also reads within a few degrees of correct as well. (61° F vs 66° Actual)
You are risking a backfire with your warm start method. Either foot off the throttle or full throttle.
Yes, they both read within a couple degrees Fahrenheit when cold vs actual outside temp. New coil, new wires, new coil pigtail, and still won’t start this morning.Both read accurately cold? Until you change the coil and the coil pigtail the only other low hanging fruit is the pcv hose and the spark plugs. Fouled plugs will not start a cold engine.
When I pulled the SVT cap off, I inspected every connector and wires going to the connectors. Both wires for the VVT solenoid are frayed and cracked open. It looks like somebody had them pinched under the cover for a while instead of routed correctly. The connector is also soaked in oil. I’m beginning to think it is variable timing related.
When cranking, looking at timing on the scanner, it is jumping to 38-40°. I feel like that is slightly over kill, but don’t have another car with VVT to compare it to.The solenoid looks like it has been leaking at the base of it for some time. Physical timing looked good when I pulled the valve cover, so I’m beginning to think it’s the VVT system.
Am I thinking right here? Does anybody know what the timing should jump to when cranking? I don’t see how it could work at 40°. It would fire with valves open, I would think.
I have no clue about the timing. More low hanging fruit. You can dump the fuel filter out. Check for debris. Ok to re use if replaced in the last 30,000 miles. Loosen the intake couplers, pull the intake towards the front of the car and hold. Tighten clamps. Clean the throttle body. Clean the ground from the cylinder head lifting eye to the shock tower. Clean the grounds under the airbox and the battery ground to the fender. Clean the ecu grounds and the instrument cluster ground. Ecu grounds on the passenger side under the carpet near the front of the door opening. Instrument cluster grounds behind the rh kick panel above the inertia switch. For my 2 SVT'S, replacing all of the vacuum lines and then putting new intake gaskets between the head and intake, retightightening the intake couplers eliminated my cold start problems.Yes, they both read within a couple degrees Fahrenheit when cold vs actual outside temp. New coil, new wires, new coil pigtail, and still won’t start this morning.
When I pulled the SVT cap off, I inspected every connector and wires going to the connectors. Both wires for the VVT solenoid are frayed and cracked open. It looks like somebody had them pinched under the cover for a while instead of routed correctly. The connector is also soaked in oil. I’m beginning to think it is variable timing related.
When cranking, looking at timing on the scanner, it is jumping to 38-40°. I feel like that is slightly over kill, but don’t have another car with VVT to compare it to.The solenoid looks like it has been leaking at the base of it for some time. Physical timing looked good when I pulled the valve cover, so I’m beginning to think it’s the VVT system.
Am I thinking right here? Does anybody know what the timing should jump to when cranking? I don’t see how it could work at 40°. It would fire with valves open, I would think.
Make sure your charging system is good. 12.65 volts minimum on the battery cold, key off. 13.6 to 14.3 running.
Charging right at 14.0 at idle. 12.8 resting. All visible vacuum lines replaced with 3/16 brake line. Did the intake couplers like you said. No vacuum leaks based one smoke test and carb cleaner trick. Cleaned a couple corroded grounds, checked others.Make sure your charging system is good. 12.65 volts minimum on the battery cold, key off. 13.6 to 14.3 running.
Barely started today @ 74°. Runs perfect after. Only code is still P0141, Heater Circuit B1S2.
Sitting on test mode in the cluster; and fuel volume is bouncing between 059.t and 05A.t. Don’t know what that means. ECT reads 180ish.
I’m out of ideas and getting frustrated at this point.
With out a wideband air fuel gauge and a X3 Flasher you wont be able to find the issue easily
I can help if you can get me a datalog
Tom
I can help if you can get me a datalog
Tom
Id like to get one, just dont have the extra $450 right now. Poor men have poor ways.With out a wideband air fuel gauge and a X3 Flasher you wont be able to find the issue easily
I can help if you can get me a datalog
Tom
Another reason I am getting frustrated. I dont have the funds to "replace this, replace that".
Intake gaskets are cheap. I guarantee yours are flat and melted.Id like to get one, just dont have the extra $450 right now. Poor men have poor ways.
Another reason I am getting frustrated. I dont have the funds to "replace this, replace that".
I am taking a shot on intake gaskets, had Oreilly bring them to me at work today. I am also going to swap out injectors, as I already have some of those.Intake gaskets are cheap. I guarantee yours are flat and melted.
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