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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I was definitely interested in taking my '14 DCT to the track once or twice this summer. I know in my last car, when I went to the track I was able to hold the brakes down completely and rev to ~2100 with relative safety. How far can I go on a focus with a DCT while remaining somewhat safe?
 

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C2H5OH
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Well, being it says the clutches disengage when you're on the brakes ...
It's going to engage rough when you let off I'd imagine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, being it says the clutches disengage when you're on the brakes ...
It's going to engage rough when you let off I'd imagine.
Hmm, so its best to line up and then only mash after releasing the brakes? Glad I asked rather then trying it lol.
 

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That Guy
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There is a 'launch control' built in to the computer. With your foot on the brake you can give it gas and it will hold rpm at around 2500 with the clutch disengaged. You would have to do a few comparisons to figure out if it is worth it on the track. For me, the best launches I've had have always been just mashing the pedal off of idle.
 

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Hmm, so its best to line up and then only mash after releasing the brakes? Glad I asked rather then trying it lol.
I tried both ways at track today by just mashing gas I would get 2.55-2.6 60 ft. Time ,by holding brake and letting rpm raise to 2500 I got consistent 2.4 all day long best of like 2.403 I think , ran a [email protected] air filter removed and e-85 in tank were only mods its a flex fuel hatchback auto.
 

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Drag radials then u will get 2.1s every time consistant. Street tires are not consistant thus u will keep quessin and its simply the tires lettin u down. R
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Drag radials then u will get 2.1s every time consistant. Street tires are not consistant thus u will keep quessin and its simply the tires lettin u down. R
No that I don't believe you but, .3 seconds in a 60 foot time is significant.. Really? Have you tested this? I would love to see your slips!


Can't wait until the track by me opens.
 

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i did 2.1 on drag radials for all of 2003 and 2004 when racing. yes 2.1 isnt the sexiest # but i didnt have a lotta power and it was deadly repeatable.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=80086489899&set=vb.514584899&type=3&theater an example after dialing into track how it runs same thing all damn day. a very impressive bracket car, even more so that its a stick. when even the track announcer notices/mentions how u run the same thing all day and ur choppin down the tree in a lil 15.3 car. good day. -R

ps- when u see this car on the strip again it'll be 1.70 60s or bust. :D (Slix)
 

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There is a 'launch control' built in to the computer. With your foot on the brake you can give it gas and it will hold rpm at around 2500 with the clutch disengaged. You would have to do a few comparisons to figure out if it is worth it on the track. For me, the best launches I've had have always been just mashing the pedal off of idle.
Mine does NOT do this. With foot on the brake, and varying degrees of throttle, rpms climb to around 1100 then drop down to idle. I think it's meant to eliminate the problems that Toyota had with the stuck accelerator issue and braking. It automatically turns off throttle inputs.
 

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Little bit of brake, clutches stay engaged. Heavy brake, mine ('13) will go to 2500 waiting for me to release the brake.
Yup, finally figured this out. Actually though, normal braking pressure isn't enough to disengage the clutch (or engage launch control). It takes the feeling of practically mashing the brake peddle to the floor (not quite, but that's the difference between normal braking and the absurd amount of pressure it takes to get to the launch control function) before it lets go.
 

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Yup, finally figured this out. Actually though, normal braking pressure isn't enough to disengage the clutch (or engage launch control). It takes the feeling of practically mashing the brake peddle to the floor (not quite, but that's the difference between normal braking and the absurd amount of pressure it takes to get to the launch control function) before it lets go.
Right. I think the factory wanted us to be fully committed to that launch, not mashing the pedal & creeping along overheating the clutches. The other day I was chasing a light-throttle rattle in the dash by grabbing a handful of parking brake, medium foot brake, & giving it light throttle in drive. After about 10 minutes of that, I got a warning on the dash "Transmission too hot ".
 

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Is there any way to tell when the clutch is fully disengaged since you're on the brake already?
Yes. Make sure there is plenty of open space in front of you (like a vacant parking lot). Set the hand brake. Trans in drive, foot on the brake lightly. Gradually press the accelerator down & put some load on the clutches. Hold the throttle there & slowly push harder & harder on the brake. You will easily tell when the clutches let go. RPM will climb like you hit a switch.
 

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how soon after you release the brake will the car start to move? it seems like it takes mine a couple seconds to engage the clutches..
 

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how soon after you release the brake will the car start to move? it seems like it takes mine a couple seconds to engage the clutches..
Yes, it's not entirely ideal for "heads-up", but reaction times won't count against your ET's.
 

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It's not ideal for bracket racing either. That's what almost all tracks do. I'm beginning to think that the only way to race these things is to do a manual swap.


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It's not ideal for bracket racing either. That's what almost all tracks do. I'm beginning to think that the only way to race these things is to do a manual swap.


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You could try to time it right before the last yellow, or preload using the E-brake, and leave during the last yellow.
 

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Old Phart
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It's not a torque converter, so you don't want to "preload" with a slipping clutch IMO.

Maybe a tiny bit of that, combining timing it and using the brake so it doesn't launch a tick early.
 
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