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Discussion Starter #1

I know this has been a dead horse... but I wonder if anyone tried this by sanding paint that's connecting to the ground.

Kinda skeptical of trying. Also, the Tom tune route helps alot, but maybe part of the shudder is related to lack of current flowing?
 

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Told a few Customers to try this and didnt work on any of them , I took the tune out of one of my DCT to try it , sanded it good and put 2 ground jumpers from Batt to Trans , drove it 1 week shuddering like crazy , no help on mine anyway

Tom
 

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Why would you ground the trans to the battery? The issue is in the ground for the battery supposedly. Run a nice ofc 0/1 or 4gauge ground from the negative terminal to the frame. There is one place near the battery with a solid amount of meat to bite into.
I have my 14 setup this way for the upgraded sound system. Did the big3 upgrade.
My shutter is still there but it's not bad at all for having 85k.
Also possibly ground the trans to frame may help haven't tried that personally.

The picture is from Google so don't mind the shit quality.

Not sure if this will help everyone but it's worth a shot.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Whether or not this helps really depends on what type of shuddering you're getting, and if you're having a few specific alternate issues. The main purpose of this fix is to help with TCM issues (not going into gear, shift interlock randomly engaging/disenguaging, I think there was a couple low voltage codes as well)

The vast majority of our slipping is caused by a bad seal, no amount of electrical modification will fix that.

There is another form of shuddering these cars experience, though, it's caused by slightly incorrect readings from various sensors, and improper voltage to the clutch actuators. It usually won't set any codes either.....until the TCM dies.

It could have been dumb luck, but a month after having my TCM replaced I was still occasionally having issues with my focus not going into gear, and some other weird shifting issues. I would also have the regular shudders, but I had another weird shudder that would only happen if it was 100+°f outside. It was more of a micro-shudder. My normal shudder feels more like a soft bucking whereas this one felt sharp, and was really fast, almost as if my car were being propelled by a tiny fast jackhammer.

I finally went out and cleaned that contact one day, and sanded the paint there. I haven't had the micro-shudder since. The weird bit where it would occasionally drop out of 6th stopped. It also quit doing the scary thing where occaisionally on upshift, it would not immediately engage the next gear. It would sometime drop almost down to idle speed, and then engage the next gear very suddenly.

I do still have the regular shudder. I never expected this to help that.

My car may also be an odd ball though. Your mileage will vary.
 

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There is another form of shuddering these cars experience, though, it's caused by slightly incorrect readings from various sensors, and improper voltage to the clutch actuators. It usually won't set any codes either.....until the TCM dies.
This is totally incorrect information , it isnt caused from incorrect readings from various sensors or improper voltage

I would like to know what sensors you feel are getting " slightly incorrect readings " and what what is the improper voltage to the actuator , what should it be and what are you seeing ?

I have spent a LOT of time on the DCT owning many of them and I know where and what the issue is

Tom
 

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The "it's caused by slightly incorrect readings from various sensors" aren't my words to be fair. those are the words of the dealer tech who was probably talking down to me because I'm young.

A grounding, or voltage issue is going to cause a problem somewhere, though. It's also not uncommon for them to present themselves in a transmission.

It was just last week a guy I work with had to replace the battery in an early 2000's Acura. He had two problems, slow starting, and it wouldn't go into reverse. Everything else was fine. Replacing the battery solved both issues.

I'm not saying all shuddering is caused by electrical issues, that's not true. Some other issues are however.
 

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Your correct in that a electrical issue will cause problems I 100% agree but there has to be an electrical issues for it to cause a problem and thats not the case with the DCT

Tom
 

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In my case, there was. They believed the bad grounding was actually what caused the failure of my TCM.

I hope you don't believe that I was saying that all shuddering is an electrical problem. I thought that I had made it clear that it is a mechanical problem. I was just having issues that produced a similar sensation.

In the TSB, I don't remember if the specify shuddering as a symptom, but the shift interlock definitely is. The part about not wanting to go into gear may have been too, but I'm probably worng on that. That was probably the TCM.
 
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