[amc49]

If they are presently causing trouble yes. Unhook and plug the vacuum hose to EGR valve only. That weeds out the entire system unless the valve itself is stuck partially open to leak.

 

[pappy60]

Had the car running and unplugged the electrical connectors first to the pressure sensor and then the solenoid. It never changed the motor at all ran the same both times.

 

[amc49]

Not what you were told to do, if solenoid stuck and not venting then EGR could still be stuck open and your test worthless.

 

[pappy60]

Sorry tell you what I did first. I did what you said. the hose for the EGR goes to the Vacuum regulator. Removed it and plug it no change

 

[amc49]

Then not EGR UNLESS it's possibly stuck at valve itself and not that common on these. But possible.

Most (not pointed at you of course) haven't figured out yet the two major idle problem differences. One, just won't idle or does for a second or minute then dies-but idles correctly and EVENLY if throttle manually brought up a bit, and two, ERRATIC idle or misfiring doing it, engine shaking around. Two different directions there. The work and money spent can often be halved by determining which one and only the OP can do that. But no one ever spends two seconds thinking about that (sigh).................

Even idle............IAC, TPS, TB bore clogged with deposit

Uneven idle.........vac leak, ignition quality, pcv leak, unmetered air

MAF probably goes in the uneven column but could be either I'd bet.

Vac leak can mess with your mind, small enough to where it still has idle trim fuel left and the idle goes too high, then as it runs out of trim fuel drops back and then begins to misfire.