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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to get my hands on a white plastic door piece. It's the piece where the ROD from the exterior door handle attaches to the door LATCH. It is a small white clip/retainer thingy. You put the rod through it, and then hook it to the door latch. It twists 1/4-turn, and locks the rod onto the latch, so that the rod can lift the latch and open the door.

If anyone could help me out that would be great. Willing to buy.

Or, does anyone know the PART NUMBER for just this small white plastic clip/connector/retainer that holds the rod to the latch mechanism? This would help my Internet searches.
Or if anyone has a better substitution than what I tried for that plastic clip, I am all ears.

Here are pictures of the small part. (Last pic shows my problem-- mine is broken.)
http://www.bravesboosters.com/images/DSCN1609.JPG


http://www.bravesboosters.com/images/DSCN1610.JPG


http://www.bravesboosters.com/images/DSCN1611.JPG
 

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Help!

I'm having the same problem. Mine is also broken and am having a hell of a time figuring out what it it called.. did you ever figure it out? Or does anyone else know!?
 

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Junkyard or contact our vendor partner Andy at Village Ford. They have their own section here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm having the same problem. Mine is also broken and am having a hell of a time figuring out what it it called.. did you ever figure it out? Or does anyone else know!?
No luck. (Yes, a trip to the junkyard would work, if you want to pull the part yourself. My experience is that this part is usually in bad shape or broken on junked parts. It's no fun to go through the work to get the door panel off, and the handle and latch out, only to find the plastic clip is not in great shape.)

Here is a temporary fix that has worked great for me so far (several months now):

1. Use rubber FACUET WASHERS. Here is a picture of one.
Most any neighborhood hardware store will have these. Or try the plumbing section of a general department store. For a few bucks I got a pack of 6.

I squeezed them over the flat flange end of the door handle rod. (I had to use a utility knife to make a slight cut/slit at the center hole of the rubber washer, to give it a little more 'give', so that the flat flange of the rod would push through, but not too easily.

Put one washer on first, then feed the rod through the loop on the latch assembly, then squeeze another washer on. These washers are slightly cone-shaped, so I put the 'pointy' ends facing each other to help hold the rod in the latch loop.

2. While you are at the hardware store, pick up a small can of spray lubricant. (The brand I used was called "Tri-Flow". Again, just a few bucks.) Spray the lubricant into the latch workings as well as you can. Don't be shy, spray it in at all angles. This will help keep the latch working as easily as possible, which results in less force on the point where the handle rod pushes on the latch loop to open the door. The rubber washers just keep the rod in place, going through the latch loop. (If the latch works hard, it will tend to put more pressure on the washers, and they will eventually pop off.)

Spray all four doors while you are at it. I was pleasantly surprised how much less effort I have to put on pulling the door handles to get them open when they are well-lubricated.
 

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Last time I checked maybe one year ago that part was listed in Ford parts but at like $15 cost. I replaced with metal parts that never will break again. Works fine and cost maybe $3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Last time I chercked maybe one year ago that part was listed in Ford parts but at like $15 cost. I replaced with metal parts that never will break again. Works fine and cost maybe $3.
I'd love to hear more about your 'metal parts fix'. I tried a couple things before my current faucet washer fix. Wouldn't mind doing more to be confident it will last.
 

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Unfortunately that little part serves a more complicated purpose than it looks like it would. It is made to wobble at odd angles that change as linkage works and distance spacing is critical there due to the cross that lets linkage set into the plastic. Meaning parts are cheap but I had to spend a half hour getting it all right to be bulletproof. Parts got ground on a bench grinder to custom fit as needed there. I used a 1/8" shaft collar with allen screw like you retain bearings on a shaft with and spring washers to apply pressure but they still give when needed. The bend at end of the link will give you problems since it cannot be retained easily without locking up, I made a special one-off collar to take care of that.
 
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