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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is any one running these? I ordered a set, but I'm not exactly sure why the spring seats are adjustable. Does it allow you to increase/decrease spring stiffness??

http://dominanteng.com/about/
 

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has a screw loose
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Your probably right about adjustable spring stiffness.
 

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i thought it was ride height?

i don't see how moving a perch makes a spring stiffer nothing else is there to compress it more. same idea as a coil over setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
^yeah I was thinking that also. I'm guessing I can measure my current ride height and just adjust the arms to match the same height. Seems like a it's going to be a PITA.
 

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It would also allow the use of different length springs (e.g. stock vs a shorter lowering spring) plus allowing some height adjustment. Spring compression is not, however, the best way to control ride height as it can effect available suspension travel.
 

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The spring seats are adjustable so you can have the car corner weighted. Anytime you have a coil over setup or adjustable ride height, you must have the car corner weighted. If not you risk having too much weight on one corner or side which will cause strange handling.
 

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Jetsetter
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you got the pink ones right? jk

those look like some great parts, i don't see any prices, how much did you pay for them?
 

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PARTS HUNTER
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Height similar to my rear adjusters on my h&r coilovers. He made it functional on the arm for use with stock style springs
 

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It's for height adjustment on the rear arms, I have both his front and rears on my 08 SE
 

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w/ my magic bag
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A lot stouter & lighter than oem!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got these on Friday. How did you guys get the ride height set? I have the FRPP kit and would like to keep the same ride height.
 

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I'm using the FRRP springs, Bottom out the adjuster and start from there, and make sure you allow the suspension to really settle before you start measuring
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have the same springs, u remember how many turns it took?
 

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Turn them all the way down, bottomed out. It may take a while for the suspension to settle, I also added a little more negative camber even though I had already rolled my rear wheel openings. It took about a day for my suspension to finally settle to it's lowest and it ended up being about 1/16 to a 1/4 inch of what it was before the lca change. If you really need to adjust do it with the help of a buddy and with your weight in the car just like when you get a alignment. I found, at least in my area, that the techs don't know what to do with this type of suspension change, they have never seen any thing like it so they are hesitant to work on it. They will try to put it to factory specs and that may not fit your particular driving style or your type of tire wear patterns.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Add toe-link's too= better!

Turn them all the way down, bottomed out. It may take a while for the suspension to settle, I also added a little more negative camber even though I had already rolled my rear wheel openings. It took about a day for my suspension to finally settle to it's lowest and it ended up being about 1/16 to a 1/4 inch of what it was before the lca change. If you really need to adjust do it with the help of a buddy and with your weight in the car just like when you get a alignment. I found, at least in my area, that the techs don't know what to do with this type of suspension change, they have never seen any thing like it so they are hesitant to work on it. They will try to put it to factory specs and that may not fit your particular driving style or your type of tire wear patterns.
You also added Dom's or CFM's toe-link's too, HUH? Also add the boot's to go w/ them. It make's rear toe adjustment's so much easyier & quicker & you can feel the rear suspension is more complyent too. Don't forget CFM's tubular control arm's either= more forward bite/ lighter weight/ adjustable camber. Since your there you really should add a Torsen to the mix!
 

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Yes, I do have Massive's adjustable toe arms and Massive's adjustable upper camber arms. As to easier, the jury is still out on that one, what would be easier if there were a true dead neutral point for all the adjustability that is now present in the rear suspension. Having a repeatable/returnable neutral point would make suspension adjustments for track conditions or autocross conditions, or even banked oval conditions much easier to do and easier to change back for the drive home.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Rear toe-link's get you a lot!

Yes, I do have Massive's adjustable toe arms and Massive's adjustable upper camber arms. As to easier, the jury is still out on that one, what would be easier if there were a true dead neutral point for all the adjustability that is now present in the rear suspension. Having a repeatable/returnable neutral point would make suspension adjustments for track conditions or autocross conditions, or even banked oval conditions much easier to do and easier to change back for the drive home.
I find it's easier to turn a toe-link, say quarter turn, naw, it's a less than that to get say, from .10 per side to say 0 toe on the rear for tracking the car, than trying to adjust the stock acentric bolt on your rear arm's. Just mark the toe-link's for a for your toe! Put the car on the alignment rack & close the door so you don't get wind coming in & don't forget to pull the pin's on the rear plate= I seen to many guy's not pull the rear plate pin's & try to adjust the rear toe! Just a little turn will get you a lot of adjustment there, as far as toe-link's go.
 

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Focal Distortion
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WoW thats sexy!
 
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