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flap fix

Hi amc49 The attachment below may explain my own solution on my car. (Ref.#21) This arrangement is still working properly and I am happy yours is too. Keep cool and have a good one. hamlorac.
 

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so this fix is ingenious in its simplicity yet clear functionality.

one question, i see the one with the screw on the front and then the one on the side. does this just do the vent selection between defrost and main vents or does it address the hot to cold one as well.

from playing around with my friends after removing the broken cables and the white piece, it seems like the lever on the side that the side aluminum piece in post 21 attaches or better put butts up against does the vent control lever and the screw does same function to keep it from hitting and sticking on the other side.

on the car i am working on the vent selector from defrost to vent is not too bad although it could use this fix and i am more than likely going to do it but the one on the bottom that is like a shaft with a star/flat side indentation does the hot to cold is super hard to turn when it bottoms out either way.

i gripped the outside and turned it and got the air hot, and back around it was cold but it takes a lot of effort when it goes to either extreme.

any known fix for this or am i missing the point and the fix in 21 does the hot cold selector sticking as well?
 

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flap fix

Hi speedy223..you are on the right track and with the cable assembly and selector gate removed, you should notice all 3 flaps will flop over with the flip of a finger. Slight finger pressure to all flaps in both their end positions will show where the problem lies. The upper flap (defrost air amount) will seem ok, the lower flap (hot/cold air temp.) will seem ok but flap closest to the radio will stick in both end positions and is the cause of the problem. My fix for that flap is an aluminum bracket on the side of the heater box that blocks the flap in the forward end position(commenter d house says not necessary)and the threaded adjuster high on the box, blocks the rearward end position. Although my setup has been working for the last 4 years now, I have been trying to think of a less artistic upper adjuster. Perhaps a simpler method would be to use a 1 1/2" drywall screw in the same spot with a cut off or blunted tip and so making use of the self locking properties of a metal screw through thick plastic to hold the adjustment, maybe possible without a fancy bracket? I feel this is a minimal difficulty and cost effective repair and worth doing. Please note your correction adjustment will be very small. Good luck and any concerns let me know.
 

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thanks for the reply, i am working a car for a lady at work who cant afford to change out the air box, kind of new to this.
your solution is ingenious and your afterthought of using a screw is pretty cool as well. i am definitely going to implement one of the two. thought about trying a screw and if it doesnt work that will be the part i drill for the bolt anyway so no harm.

do you recommend the side of the box bracket no longer just the front screw?

just to rehash, it seems the hot to cold one is sticky as well but you are saying that is fixed by the fix outlined with the brackets or is that one just the vent selection.


will the main flap fix with the screw like you showed will help with the heat and cold as well as the vent selection or are you saying one door causing both problems?

that seems clear as mud as i read the above paragraph over but just wanted to make sure it was not a separate one that needed something as well.

one of the cables was broken and one of the knobs was broken. i have two new ones coming in this week but wanted to try to fix it so it would not break again in a week.

i will try your fix for the main door since i am doing that anyway and post back the results for the system.
 

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ok. it is done. thanks a million, the heat and cool door is working just fine, both were inop due to either knob or cable failure and probably had not moved in a minute so i moved them around and only the vent selector door continued to stick at full closed position but the bolt thing fixed it, worked like a charm.

i threaded a small one at the wrong angle sort of the first time and it was kind of off and kept binding, so i adjusted the angle went slightly downward and when i got it right upsized one notch , when i was sure it was right i threaded a piece of aluminum stock i cut off the lip of a TDI oil pan that had busted and put a jam nut and it was perfect.

needed a slightly larger bolt than the first one i tried and it worked perfect.

thanks a bunch to all who contribute to free forums for the poor and frugal and wish i could buy the original inventor of this door fix a beer,

this was not my car, done for a lady at work who cant afford to pay 1500 dollars to fix this kind of problem and we need defrost and vent and all that in humidity land of east texas. on behalf of her thanks a bunch. i was able to fix this very easily and cheaply thanks to you guys.

i may pick up a focus again one of these days, thinking i need a gas car to go with my fleet of old TDI's. I like that this forum is very active and useful,
 

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I think I have to do this blend door repair (post#21) as my vents are still not functioning after replacing the white cable on the selector. I've had the radio facia off and the sub dash (below the steering wheel)....What do I need to remove to access the sticking door?
Is it very difficult?
Thanks in advance.
 

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flap fix

Hi Reilly, That vent flap mod. may not apply to your 2014 Focus so be aware. I am supposing that on 2008 to 2014 models, this particular fault may not be present because of different design characteristics. I know 2005/6/7,s were plagued with this problem but I am unfamiliar with newer models, so could not offer you any useful information on a fix for the same situation. My post 21 explains a fix for a 2006 focus but I am guessing that a 2014 would be a different piece altogether. By the way Speedy 223 did not go for the blunt screw solution, and I am sorry to be of no use to you at all. All the best hamlorac.
 

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Hamorlac:
My 2014 Focus is working fine (but I now know to be gentle with the HVAC controls)….it's my daughters 2006 Focus that's giving me grief.

I replaced the white cable but the blend door is still sticking. Some YouTube videos show the binding of the blend door to be caused by breaking down of the glue or sealing area….they end up accessing the door by cutting (and later re-sealing the plastic housing) in order to clean up the sticky mess....or to replace the blend door with a junk yard part.

One guy took out the blend door and wrapped it in aluminum tape to cover the sticky part....thus preventing it from binding.

I'm looking for the EASIEST solution (because my skills are limited).

Your solution seems easier than AMC49s...which is brilliant but above my skill set.

I've already removed the radio, dash kick plate etc...I'm just not sure exactly how to proceed...is it necessary to clean up the sticky blend door or is putting the door stop (bolt) enough to fix the issue?

Thanks for your knowledge and patience with me...
 

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flap fix

Hi Reilly Forgive me for the confusion about the focus models, it is my fault. I still tend to go with post 41 fault prediction condition. I can say with certainty that post 21 is the simplest and best lasting solution, compared to any serious internal surgery, (mine good for 5 years now). I would just go with the upper stop adjuster and see how it cures the problem. I still feel post 21 describes all the necessary items for disassembly, so go with that. You maybe the first to try the blunt screw method(post 43) as an even simpler way to adjust the flap closure. Come on Reilly, you can do it, it is simple, you may be famous.
 

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Thanks Hamlorac.... I am going at it today using the post 21 method.
I have thought of using the blunted drywall screw (or even 2...one on each side of the ribbed section) but will stick with the proven method. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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I installed the upper stop using 2 screws right through the plastic (I blunted the screws to avoid damaging the door and I used slightly thicker screws to spread the contact point).....I put 1 screw where the one is pictured in Post#21 and one opposite it on the other side of the ribbed section. I had a friend turn the screws while I manipulated the blend door lever...as soon as I felt it touch I had him screw it another (approx.) 1/4 turn to just barely take the door off the sticky point....it seems to work very well.... the door doesn't seem to stick on the bottom so I didn't put the side stopper in.

Thanks again Hamlorac and the rest for posting this helpful and money saving tutorial....
 

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Ref. Sticking vent selector heater controls on 2006 ZX5.Remove drivers under dash panel,loosen hood cable nut and slide off, unclip data connector and set panel aside.Remove 4 screws from selector control ,cables attached, and let hang down. Unhook the black selector gate and feel the action of both front and rear flaps.The main culprit is the flap closest to the radio so as you move that flap you should feel the sticking or stuck condition at both of its far end positions.A deformed internal flap seal causes this jamming effect, so here follows my humble solution, that involves adjustable end stops.I used a 1/16" aluminum strip 3" long and bent up one end about 1/8" at 90 degrees and mounted it on the heater box with short self-tappers against the link of that flap to provide a forward stop.This stop should be carefully positioned so as not to allow the flap to drop into its sticky resting place.If you are close the aluminum is easy to bent so as to get a finer adjustment.The next step is to remove the radio surround panel,disconnect cigar lighter,remove the radio, pull two cables and set unit aside.Drill a hole in the heater box and install adjusting bolt bracket as shown in the photo. It is important to adjust these end stops as minimally as possible or the mechanism will bind. After the two stops are mounted a final check before reassembly is to install the black selector gate back in position and work "by hand" the mechanism through its full motion to confirm that no stickiness occurs in either of its end positions and that it transitions smoothly through its various modes.Although the flap is not technically as the designer intended, my air flow is normal and the cable controls work properly. The cost of materials is negligible and the labour maybe two hours work .The Ford car company does not need any more of our hard earned money so I hope this helps some other physically challenged heater boxes. The cost of materials was negligible and took maybe 2 hours, with a low difficulty scale.
This ^ right here looked like the easiest fix that I have found, so... To see if the fix would solve my problem, I simplified this even more.

I drilled a hole in my plastic heater box in the location shown. Then I put a fine thread bolt (big, like a 3/8-24) up against the hole and drove it in with a socket, extension and ratchet. It's only plastic, so the bolt can cut its own threads. That's it. No bracket, no locknut. I figure if the bolt works its way loose, I can always pull the bolt out and make up a bracket like shown.

Meanwhile - I screwed the bolt in until the control lever started moving and stopped. That was not enough. The door stuck after a little while. So I pulled the radio and gave the bolt a few turns. Since then, the door has not stuck.

I consider it SOLVED.

Thank you! [headbang]
 

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My HVAC switch is not responding to selecting between defrost/panel/floor, I hope I can find a solution here on this forum.
Thanks to all.
 

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