Focus Fanatics Forum banner

21 - 40 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Flap fix

Ref. Sticking vent selector heater controls on 2006 ZX5.Remove drivers under dash panel,loosen hood cable nut and slide off, unclip data connector and set panel aside.Remove 4 screws from selector control ,cables attached, and let hang down. Unhook the black selector gate and feel the action of both front and rear flaps.The main culprit is the flap closest to the radio so as you move that flap you should feel the sticking or stuck condition at both of its far end positions.A deformed internal flap seal causes this jamming effect, so here follows my humble solution, that involves adjustable end stops.I used a 1/16" aluminum strip 3" long and bent up one end about 1/8" at 90 degrees and mounted it on the heater box with short self-tappers against the link of that flap to provide a forward stop.This stop should be carefully positioned so as not to allow the flap to drop into its sticky resting place.If you are close the aluminum is easy to bent so as to get a finer adjustment.The next step is to remove the radio surround panel,disconnect cigar lighter,remove the radio, pull two cables and set unit aside.Drill a hole in the heater box and install adjusting bolt bracket as shown in the photo. It is important to adjust these end stops as minimally as possible or the mechanism will bind. After the two stops are mounted a final check before reassembly is to install the black selector gate back in position and work "by hand" the mechanism through its full motion to confirm that no stickiness occurs in either of its end positions and that it transitions smoothly through its various modes.Although the flap is not technically as the designer intended, my air flow is normal and the cable controls work properly. The cost of materials is negligible and the labour maybe two hours work .The Ford car company does not need any more of our hard earned money so I hope this helps some other physically challenged heater boxes. The cost of materials was negligible and took maybe 2 hours, with a low difficulty scale.


next flap fix 1 edit.JPG

next flap fix 7 edit.jpg

qed 3 edit.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
There are a lot of post about the door sticking at the extreme ends but none for in the middle. I keep mine in the blend setting most of the time and mine will stick there. It is very difficult to get it to switch to vents or feet from there. Is the door sticking or does it have to do with the track? Same fixes as mentioned or different?
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,596 Posts
Posts about sticking at the ends refer to the heat control blend door, not the multiple doors controlling defrost/vent/floor.

Center position on the knob (floor) isn't QUITE exact on mine for example, there's a transition there between defrost settings & floor/vent settings that's often sticky because a lot moves at once there.

For myself, just keeping it on either side of that position avoids leaving it right at that "sticky" transition point - either in the defrost/floor side or the vent/floor side. Not being heavy handed when moving it through that point has avoided troubles with it so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I've broken four vent cables in the past year. Today I removed the four screws from the white selector & removed it to grease up the black wheel attached to it. Now I can't get it lined up to reinstall it. Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I'm new here
but having bougth a used 2005 Focus in the summer
the heat selector moved normal till winter set in.
one ford dealer wanter a $1000 plus to fix it.



So we took it to another Ford dealer, they charged $40 to find the problem, they
charged us $450 to replace the cables, for 73 min of work it worked when we drove it home, the next morning it was stuck.
I first thought it might be moisture issue of water not drainging from AC coil.
I set a elec heater on the pass floor, in 45 min it freed up. convincing me
it was moisture freesing
the Ford dealer said the drain was open. I went home and used the elec heater
again and in 40 min it freed up.
Losing comfince in that dealer, i went to another deal parts department to get
a print out of all I could find in that heater area. I found the wanted $586 for just the heater box. they couldn't give me any break down of that box. I want to get a view of what's inside so i might get some ideas as to how to fix.

Might I say I've worked as an autmotive machist 50 yrs ago and knew many mechanics worked by guess work rather than investigating and fixing what didn't fix the problem charging the customer and charging the customer again to get another imiaged problem on and on till they found the real problem. i also found auto machinist weren't machinist either, I was critixed for using a dial indicator.I moved on to a tool and die shop.
And I also know a lot shops pay the mechanic a comision on the parts they sell
including the service forman. So this game of fix and refix goes on and on.

I'm lookin for warmer weather comes when I can find the time to crawl in trouble shoot for my self.

I would like to find an old heater box from a 2005 focus someone took out and
cut into it to see for my information just how the inside is constructed.

Also would like to find a small cambra for my lap top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
The fix outlined in post 21 works. I used this fix and it has worked for over 1 year. Don't bother with the dealer. I'm sorry you paid $450, but your control cables may have been shot and needed to be replaced anyway. You will strip the cables due to excessive force needed to move the sticky damper doors.
$1000 is to replace the heater box. That will also fix the problem.
All cars have these kinds of weak points that create pattern failures. No dealer is going to mess with this finicky repair, but I was willing and can verify it is effective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I'd like to try this fix. That appears to be a jack lock threaded insert. What are the sizes of bolt hardware used ? Measured distances to drill the stop hole would be helpful. it appears approximately centered, though the bottom one seems a bit offset upwards. Why not just use the jack nut alone or with a washer to spread the force. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
To dhouse....Because of a lack of welding equipment I was forced to use a front licence plate captive nut arrangement off a car, to provide a workable adjustment device.Before fitting the device on the heater box ,a tight hole was made for that nut to fit into the bracket,the nut pushed in and then the adjuster bolt was fully bottomed out to crush the cage so as to provide as flat a surface as possible and then to mount the device flush on the heater box. The offending flap runs the full width of the heater box and butts up against that one inch flange where the bracket will be mounted. The adjuster when fitted will stop that flap from jamming into the flange area.I used a metric licence nut,bolt and lock nut but you could use 1/4 inch pieces just as well. Drill an exploritory 1/8 inch hole in central position on that flange and put a straight wire through the hole and work the flap against the wire to grasp the concept.If you cant envision this idea then fill the hole with a old screw.Hope thats clear as muck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Assuming the question is about the center top bolt:
That bolt is sticking into the heater box about 1/4 - 1/2 inch or 8-12mm.
The bolt length is not too important. There is some room at the top. You can see that hamlorac uses a clip nut and an additional nut on top of the Al stock to jam the bolt when it has been inserted just enough to keep the flapper from shutting completely.
I had a thicker piece of Al stock and drilled and tapped it. I also used a second jam nut so once adjusted you could jam (tighten the top nut down) the bolt in position.

I suspect you are making this more difficult then it really is. Hats off to hamlorac because the idea is ingenious. Execution is not that super critical. The tricky part is to barely keep the internal flap from fully reaching its end of travel where it tends to jam. Give it a shot. It is not too bad, works and saves a nice pile of money. Sadly I suspect a new air box is only a temporary fix anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
davmac - Agreed - it is brilliant and simple. My question was length and diameter of the center, stop bolt, and it's positioning, which I think is important to get right. I can't believe it would take much force to prevent the damper from over traveling. I'd think 6 mm diameter for the center, or stop bolt would be adequate. His photo's though excellent and close up, skew scale perception, hence the questions. His center / stop bolt appears to be 8 mm relative to the small self tappers. Thanks for your input and thanks to hamlorac. I'm grateful to be able to save my daughter a lot of money on this fix. She's one of those broke college students.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
As is typical my long winded answer missed the point.
My center bolt is mounted approximately in the center of the air box on the left side of those reinforcing ribs just as pictured. Pay attention to the photo for the vertical placement (kind of resting just above the ridge) because that determines where the bolt enters the air box. The horizontal placement is not too critical because you just want to keep the flap from completely closing and the flap is the entire width of the air box.
The center bolt I used was M8x1.25 x 25 or 35mm long
I'm sure M6 would also work as would 1/4-20.
The only critical adjustment is how much bolt is threaded into the air box. You need to be able to twist the knob to nearly the end of its range before the bolt stops the flap. Obviously you want the flap to nearly seal to have the intended effect of changing the air flow.
IIRC I just grabbed the damper door by hand using the lever at the side to confirm the fix before reassembly.
Good luck with your repair!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
To hamlorac or davmac - Hi. I think I understand the location of picture 2, as it appears to be below the radio, right behind the hvac control panel, the three ribs being the unique i.d. of the spot. What I can not make out is the location of picture 3. Can u or anyone else shed a little more light on that. I don't want to put this all back together and only have one stop installed. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Thanks for the suggestion, to keep the control knob turned just a bit away from either extreme of adjustment. Works without problem, now.

The vent control knob was starting to get difficult to move off the full CW or CCW position, on my 2007 Focus wagon (220,000 km), just this summer.
It finally did freeze in the defrost position and I had to access the plastic lever, on the air box, at the floor of the car, and manually move the lever, to free up the vent control knob




I may have to give this a try when I feel like pulling the car apart again. It's having enough problems that I don't even want to look at it and I'm about ready to drive it into Lake Ontario.

Anywho, mine gets stuck on defrost,and I have to reach up inside there and manually move it. As long as I keep it a notch from full defrost, it doesn't stick.

Almost seems like it goes a little further past where it should, and turning the knob isn't enough to rotate it back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
flap fix

Hi amc49, Thanks for your update. That is a unique alteration to the selector gate, but whatever fixes your problem, then that is more power to you. My own solution has been good for 2 years now, so I am not looking for any more drastic moves. Thanks for the heads up and keep plugging away. hamlorac.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,421 Posts
Your way works fine but you need to be sure you are as close as you can to absolute closed at least on the a/c side as any leaking there at all to guarantee no sticking then lowers the quality of your a/c coldness. Need to be right up against the door sealing but NOT sealing. I actually have your method pics saved and at first was going to do it that way until looking close at how the door rocker arm worked made me realize how you could zero in even closer by using the cam to have more adjustability of the door closed points.

I'm in Texas, we have no overhead giveaway of a/c cold at all here, need every last bit of it. You're great in Canada............
 
21 - 40 of 55 Posts
Top