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Factory Lugs suck or is it just me?

  • Suck

    Votes: 36 72.0%
  • You're nuts, they're just fine. (or is it just YOUR nuts?)

    Votes: 14 28.0%

  • Total voters
    50
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I am using 19MM socket and in 5 years, I never had any issue with the lug nuts. None stripped and they look like new. I am using the Ridgid 18V ½ Impact Driver to undo the bolts. I use my hands and a torque wrench to put them back on.

I know that my dealer is using a 3/4" socket (19.04 MM) so I leave my 19MM socket available in the console and they use it instead.
Nice. So you're also not torquing the wheel nuts to 721 lbs-ft of torque like many Focus Fanatics members insist you must?
 

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Nice. So you're also not torquing the wheel nuts to 721 lbs-ft of torque like many Focus Fanatics members insist you must?
What? 721 ft-lbs? I hope you are joking lol.

I torque to 100 ft-lbs as per what is written in the manual in a star pattern.

I never had a lug fly on the highway.

Using a 2 foots breaker bar, they come off easily without any big force.

How can it happen?
 

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i torque mine to about 90lbs (from what my friends torque wrench went up to until it started to move without clicking) i stand on the tire iron until it holds my weight without bouncing up and down like a clown. never over torqued them nor have i ever snapped one the only ones i have snapped were clients cars after using a breaker bar and they snapped clean off trying to loosen them. i've never in my life damaged a rim nor have i ever used a rattle gun on wheel nuts..

(added)
I also use silver anti-seize on every nut i reinstall, to many cheap tin covered lugs hold water and they corrode/rust even worst when the end of the lugnuts get stuck on the corroded mushroomed ends of the wheel studs.
i buy and spend more on anti seize then i do on oilchanges but then again using antiseize means im not fighting to remove the nuts or have to worry about things binding
 
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Changing my wheels Summer to Winter and back.
OEM delivery Nov 2014 to
Winter Dec 2014
Summer May 2015
Winter Nov 2015
Summer May 2016
Winter Nov 2016
Summer May 2017
Winter Nov 1 2017

My lug nuts. DONE BY DEALER.. look brand new. [neener]
 

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Changing my wheels Summer to Winter and back.
OEM delivery Nov 2014 to
Winter Dec 2014
Summer May 2015
Winter Nov 2015
Summer May 2016
Winter Nov 2016
Summer May 2017
Winter Nov 1 2017

My lug nuts. DONE BY DEALER.. look brand new. [neener]
they should be looking new seeing your list starts in 2014 [poke]
most of the nuts that spin are on 2007 and older. hehehehe my SAP have rotting caps they are just corroded to death my jaguar is 2003 and gets brand new tires installed every season as its very high mileage (500,000+) [driving]
 

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Changing my wheels Summer to Winter and back.
OEM delivery Nov 2014 to
Winter Dec 2014
Summer May 2015
Winter Nov 2015
Summer May 2016
Winter Nov 2016
Summer May 2017
Winter Nov 1 2017

My lug nuts. DONE BY DEALER.. look brand new. [neener]
I have a 2013 which had the lugs (as I said earlier) fail last spring, so at 4 years old.

Mine looked new until they failed as well.
 

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I torque 85 to 90lbs for aftermarket alloy wheels, oem alloy or steel wheels, I do 100ft lbs
 

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Picked up a set of Gorilla 12 mm lugs from CJ Pony parts in black to match the car. So far so good, still look good.
heh those look like solid built not capped hehe xD
 

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I bought real chrome ones, every car i had with those cap covered ones got replaced with the real thing! Yeah they suck!!
 

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Probably true, but the lugs still suck. I just swapped mine out with McGard spline drive. The problem is the spline drive adapter is 13/16, which does not match the 19mm tire iron. Oh well, replace that too I guess.
I changed my mind on the McGard spline drive, they have a smaller cone seating area. Although these may work on wheels that were designed with the small areas, I'm not going to reduce the lug clamping area on the factory Ford wheel.

Just ordered a set of McGard 64012 "bulge" lug nuts with a larger cone seating area. And they're 3/4" to fit the factory lug wrench and match the wheel lock.
 

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I changed my mind on the McGard spline drive, they have a smaller cone seating area. Although these may work on wheels that were designed with the small areas, I'm not going to reduce the lug clamping area on the factory Ford wheel.

Just ordered a set of McGard 64012 "bulge" lug nuts with a larger cone seating area. And they're 3/4" to fit the factory lug wrench and match the wheel lock.
The smaller seat is fine, 60deg angle is important... for the Ford focus, the aftermarket and premium lugs with the smaller area conical seat works with aftermarket and oem wheels... but other makes of cars may have issues
 

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uhmm well.. i wasn't expecting to run into these but i found these on clearance they are keyed and don't look that bad and for $13.99 I'm not arguing seeing they are usually about $34+.. they put it on clearance because the packaging was split open.

i happened upon these just being placed out for clearance and it was the only set and they just happened to be exact for the focus..

im not expecting them to be the best. but anything is better then the corroded rusted capped ones on my car now that are starting to want to spin

and seeing Parts source wants $3.95 for loose nuts and $12 for a set of 4 nuts i couldn't pass on it
the image is of the black set i have the polished chrome ones
 
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The smaller seat is fine, 60deg angle is important... for the Ford focus, the aftermarket and premium lugs with the smaller area conical seat works with aftermarket and oem wheels... but other makes of cars may have issues
They may be "fine", particularly if one reduces the torque so as not to exceed the deformation limits of the smaller aluminum area. Your engineering analysis notwithstanding, there is no compelling reason to reduce the lug seating area, particularly when special torque instructions to the rocket scientists at my local tire shop would then be required.

I'll play it safe and go with the bulge cone lugs.
 

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They may be "fine", particularly if one reduces the torque so as not to exceed the deformation limits of the smaller aluminum area. Your engineering analysis notwithstanding, there is no compelling reason to reduce the lug seating area, particularly when special torque instructions to the rocket scientists at my local tire shop would then be required.

I'll play it safe and go with the bulge cone lugs.
[facepalm]

I provided no engineering analysis, if you look at the lugnuts only a certain portion of the conical area makes contact with the wheels and the smaller conical area of aftermarket lugnuts (designed for both aftermarket and oem wheels btw), so the engineering has already been done, there is no way the makers of these products would verify in the instructions guaranteed fitment for any vehicle with 5x1.5mm, 60degree conical seat, of which there is many makes, mostly domestic..I have used my 14+ year old mcgard splinedrive, 5x1.5mm 60 deg conical seat lugnut set in a dodge neon, pontiac sunfire and now for my winter wheels in my 2013 ford focus (not to mention seen them used for countless other 5x1.5mm cars both aftermarket and oem alloy or steel wheels)

There is absolutley no reduction in lug seating area, if anyone told you that, it's simply not true. [unsure]

Enjoy your bulging nuts.
 
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And this is with steel lugnuts only, I don't use all aluminum because they can and have loosened even after proper torque and retorque within 100km after wheel install, and or had the threads get damaged, cross threaded, etc.
 

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They may be "fine", particularly if one reduces the torque so as not to exceed the deformation limits of the smaller aluminum area. Your engineering analysis notwithstanding, there is no compelling reason to reduce the lug seating area, particularly when special torque instructions to the rocket scientists at my local tire shop would then be required.

I'll play it safe and go with the bulge cone lugs.
[facepalm]

I provided no engineering analysis, if you look at the lugnuts only a certain portion of the conical area makes contact with the wheels and the smaller conical area of aftermarket lugnuts (designed for both aftermarket and oem wheels btw), so the engineering has already been done, there is no way the makers of these products would verify in the instructions guaranteed fitment for any vehicle with 5x1.5mm, 60degree conical seat, of which there is many makes, mostly domestic..I have used my 14+ year old mcgard splinedrive, 5x1.5mm 60 deg conical seat lugnut set in a dodge neon, pontiac sunfire and now for my winter wheels in my 2013 ford focus (not to mention seen them used for countless other 5x1.5mm cars both aftermarket and oem alloy or steel wheels)

There is absolutley no reduction in lug seating area, if anyone told you that, it's simply not true. [unsure]

Enjoy your bulging nuts.
uhhh ok [scratch] and a FYI not all manufacturers use the same nuts my nephews old Chevrolet Crapalier nuts were suposidly good for a focus till i found they go on about 2 threads and bind on everystud. so i tried one of mine and same on his..

as for the rim to nut seating the max would be halfway up on the coned edge anymore will result in spreading of the stud holes or G force sheering when cornering at high speeds it will eventually spread the hole and basically push itself though if people tell me this is BS i have a factory focus rim outside under my deck with the rest of my spares that had to have the nuts cut out because the factory nuts slowly ate themselves into the rim resulting in the installer driving the nut far enough where it exited the socket with no way of removing we had to drill the stud though the nut to release the rim. and this was one of the capped nuts that lost its cap.. [hatchet] fun fun.. we use that rim with the oversized hole with steel sleeves pressed in and special washered nuts (basically its a full size spare only)
- basically drilled the stud holes wider and pressed in steel sleeves, its a factory rim not a $400 aftermarket xD
 

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uhhh ok [scratch] and a FYI not all manufacturers use the same nuts my nephews old Chevrolet Crapalier nuts were suposidly good for a focus till i found they go on about 2 threads and bind on everystud. so i tried one of mine and same on his..

as for the rim to nut seating the max would be halfway up on the coned edge anymore will result in spreading of the stud holes or G force sheering when cornering at high speeds it will eventually spread the hole and basically push itself though if people tell me this is BS i have a factory focus rim outside under my deck with the rest of my spares that had to have the nuts cut out because the factory nuts slowly ate themselves into the rim resulting in the installer driving the nut far enough where it exited the socket with no way of removing we had to drill the stud though the nut to release the rim. and this was one of the capped nuts that lost its cap.. [hatchet] fun fun.. we use that rim with the oversized hole with steel sleeves pressed in and special washered nuts (basically its a full size spare only)
- basically drilled the stud holes wider and pressed in steel sleeves, its a factory rim not a $400 aftermarket xD
Was the focus 5x1.5mm, 5x1.25mm or 4 bolt? probably different.

I'll take some pictures to try and explain what Im talking about, I have quite a few sets of lugs and your comment about cavalier is strange because Sunfire and cavalier have used the same 5x100 bolt pattern and stud thread pitch and stud length from like 1980's to 2005 the last year of the jbody, ive owned many and all the 5x100 wheels even from like a first gen cavalier from 1985 fit a 2000+ jbody and the 5x1.5mm 60 deg conical seat lugs worked. The key is making sure the car's lugs are those spec, some are 5x1.25mm, or not conical seat, or many other variations if talking European or other makes.
 

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Was the focus 5x1.5mm, 5x1.25mm or 4 bolt? probably different.

I'll take some pictures to try and explain what Im talking about, I have quite a few sets of lugs and your comment about cavalier is strange because Sunfire and cavalier have used the same 5x100 bolt pattern and stud thread pitch and stud length from like 1980's to 2005 the last year of the jbody, ive owned many and all the 5x100 wheels even from like a first gen cavalier from 1985 fit a 2000+ jbody and the 5x1.5mm 60 deg conical seat lugs worked. The key is making sure the car's lugs are those spec, some are 5x1.25mm, or not conical seat, or many other variations if talking European or other makes.
xD i dont own any 5 bolt focus's all my focuses are stock 2000-2003 NA with the NA 2006 SAP zx4 as an exception the only 5 bolt i have is my Ford built Jaguar but thats a 5 bolt flat nut


currently that crapalier was a 1995 and has blown its 3 third motor and is long since flattened all thats left is the factory 5 spoke star rims the Pinnacle 7 spoke rims sitting in their basement xD i scrapped it on my nephew after getting sick of putting in new engines and no one bothering to even check the oil every 6 months.

eventually i will be installing a 4 wheel disk system into my 06 but thats in the future im not sure if it will be 4 or 5 bolt..

also im not sure what year your pointing at but i do know for a fact my 2002 wagon, my 2003 Jaguar X-type and my 2006 Ford Focus all are 12mmx1.50's as per the gent i spoke to at Ford Performance where i buy all my Jaguar parts
 
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