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Factory Lugs suck or is it just me?

  • Suck

    Votes: 36 72.0%
  • You're nuts, they're just fine. (or is it just YOUR nuts?)

    Votes: 14 28.0%

  • Total voters
    50
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Old Phart
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Torque wrench is the trick, it's much better for the wheels/brakes to be tightened up evenly.

Basic version is a special bar for a socket handle, it's got a pointer bar from the end that's parallel to it when no force is on it, and points to a cross bar marked in ft/lb. hash marks.

When you pull/push on it to turn the socket, the bar bends and the pointer stays with the socket position. That way the end towards you moves against the cross bar for measurement of the bending force on the handle bar.

If you had to test one/set it up, you'd put a measured force (weight) against the bar at the 1 ft point and the deflection from each pound would be a ft/lb. of torque.

Different length bar can be calculated vs. a theoretical 1 ft one.


Fancy ones use dial gauges, or for repetitive work you set them to a measurement and the end 'clicks' as you reach the target measurement.

The basic bending bar & pointer arm is cheapest, and easiest to see how it works & what pressure variances you get while turning something.
 

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Torretto!
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3,879 Posts
^^^ones with dial gauges, if you drop them on hard surface, they are no longer any good or accurate
 

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Old Phart
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44,595 Posts
Air wrenches can use a 'torque stick' between wrench & socket, each stick is for a single torque spec.

The stick twists JUST enough when the correct torque is reached that each hammer blow of the air tool is absorbed instead of turning the socket when specified torque is reached.
 

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Old Phart
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44,595 Posts
^^^ones with dial gauges, if you drop them on hard surface, they are no longer any good or accurate
Click or dial, either needs calibration eventually.

Click type needs to be turned to min. after each use to relax the spring inside for longer use before it goes out of spec..
 

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Old Phart
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Yup - click type is pretty popular.

I've got fancy ones from time as a Mechanic, but they're all the same in those rules/needs. The fanciest one isn't supposed to be as bad for needing to be adjusted down when not in use, it doesn't wind up against a spring the same way as the cheaper ones - I still follow the habit of turning it down as well. (dial type click wrench)
 

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Old Phart
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P.S. - unless the outfit that makes those has a "deal" offered for recalibration, replacement if it's off might be cheapest.
 

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The Sears clicker type torque wrenches were a steal at $40 each to Craftsman club members at Christmas. I picked up 10-75 3/8" drive and 20-150 ft-lb 1/2" drive units. They are on sale right now for $50 each.
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Mine are not like that at all. They are pricy, but I like McGard Splinedrive lugnuts.
Do you have a part number that works with mk3 for the McGard lugnuts?
The exhaust shop that welded up the st exhaust for me removed the stripped lug nut in the rear for free. Sadly, they used an impact gun on full tq to reinstall the new one. Thinking I was good to go with my tire rotation I found that all 10 lug nuts on the front wheels had swollen. I had the liberty of beating the socket on all of them with a rubber mallet, installing on a vice, and separating with a punch. Thankfully, I had a spare set but I'd like to switch at this point. I had my car worked on several occasions at the dealership and I know they never torqued to spec. Just went to town with the impact. I really don't want to run into this again. All shops seem to be "gun" happy from my experience and in the event I have to take it somewhere I don't want to find out at tire rotation time that all the lugs are swallen and have to be destroyed. I've NEVER had this problem before. Car has 60k miles on it and I rotate tires every 6k-7k miles.
 

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Torretto!
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3,879 Posts
Do you have a part number that works with mk3 for the McGard lugnuts?
The exhaust shop that welded up the st exhaust for me removed the stripped lug nut in the rear for free. Sadly, they used an impact gun on full tq to reinstall the new one. Thinking I was good to go with my tire rotation I found that all 10 lug nuts on the front wheels had swollen. I had the liberty of beating the socket on all of them with a rubber mallet, installing on a vice, and separating with a punch. Thankfully, I had a spare set but I'd like to switch at this point. I had my car worked on several occasions at the dealership and I know they never torqued to spec. Just went to town with the impact. I really don't want to run into this again. All shops seem to be "gun" happy from my experience and in the event I have to take it somewhere I don't want to find out at tire rotation time that all the lugs are swallen and have to be destroyed. I've NEVER had this problem before. Car has 60k miles on it and I rotate tires every 6k-7k miles.
Just look for 12x1.5mm with conical seat and your golden.....I make sure any shop reinstalling my wheels uses torque wrench only...takes more time but more accurate and prevents wheel and lug damage
 

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My wife got a flat quite a while back in her 2010. She called me to change the tire, I got out there and stripped a couple of lugs trying to get them off. Called my insurance company for roadside assistance and they couldn't get the other ones off either and stripped them out. So my insurance company called a tow truck, we took it to a tire shop and they got them off. I asked them about the softness of the lugnuts and the guys response was basically "OEM Ford lugnuts suck".

So based on this thread, it appears they haven't gotten better with the MK-3 version of the Focus. So guess I'll go get a good set and have them installed when we get her next tire rotation done.
 

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Focus Hoarder
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typically most of fords tin covered lugs suck... my jag was built by ford they used their crappy covered lugs on it and they spin easy and as per the manual says use only the tire bar that comes with the car which i did and STILL spun... i eventually got po'd and just ordered solid nuts for all my cars.. tired of having to drill and redo the wheel bolts when they do spin or break
 

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Something tells me people are using 20 mm, 21 mm, 29 mm, whatever they can find sockets on the wheel nuts.

There's a reason Ford says to use 19 mm socket on the wheel nuts. But I guess if a 21 mm fits, then that's close enough.

And exactly how many foot-tons of torque are people using to strip the wheel studs?
 

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Something tells me people are using 20 mm, 21 mm, 29 mm, whatever they can find sockets on the wheel nuts.

There's a reason Ford says to use 19 mm socket on the wheel nuts. But I guess if a 21 mm fits, then that's close enough.

And exactly how many foot-tons of torque are people using to strip the wheel studs?
Probably true, but the lugs still suck. I just swapped mine out with McGard spline drive. The problem is the spline drive adapter is 13/16, which does not match the 19mm tire iron. Oh well, replace that too I guess.
 

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Focus Hoarder
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xD i used whatevers in the boot of my car xD IE factory tireiron xD
 

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Something tells me people are using 20 mm, 21 mm, 29 mm, whatever they can find sockets on the wheel nuts.

There's a reason Ford says to use 19 mm socket on the wheel nuts. But I guess if a 21 mm fits, then that's close enough.

And exactly how many foot-tons of torque are people using to strip the wheel studs?
While this may be the case for some, in my situation it was the tire iron from the trunk that came with the car and the lugs rounded out on me.
 

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Something tells me people are using 20 mm, 21 mm, 29 mm, whatever they can find sockets on the wheel nuts.

There's a reason Ford says to use 19 mm socket on the wheel nuts. But I guess if a 21 mm fits, then that's close enough.

And exactly how many foot-tons of torque are people using to strip the wheel studs?
I am using 19MM socket and in 5 years, I never had any issue with the lug nuts. None stripped and they look like new. I am using the Ridgid 18V ½ Impact Driver to undo the bolts. I use my hands and a torque wrench to put them back on.

I know that my dealer is using a 3/4" socket (19.04 MM) so I leave my 19MM socket available in the console and they use it instead.
 
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