Performance is not bad, but things have gone wrong that should not have for a car that has only 108K, particularly the ABS/TC control module. According to the mechanic it has to be replaced in order to fix the traction control. Apparently the ABS is not supposed to be working when the light comes on, but I definitely felt it working last winter when the TC, ABS and Brake lights came on. A new module is $903CDN + installation, which includes bleeding the entire system as I presume the unit includes the HCU, as it means disconnecting all the lines to re & re the module. I've had it with NA built cars - my next car will definitely be an import.
disappointed with 2004 Focus ZX5
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Not sure what to say to that. There are many people (myself included) whom have owned 100k+ foci that havent had any major issues.
Hope you have better luck with your next car.
Hope you have better luck with your next car.
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11,867 Posts
Sounds like a mechanic replacing parts to diagnose problems rather than diagnosing problems W/O replacing parts to me.
It's pretty uncommon for an ABS hydraulic unit to go bad on any car, of any generation/manufacturer.
The only one I've done that I know was bad was on a 1997 Lexus ES 300. A valve inside had corroded so bad it stuck. The reason it failed was the brake fluid had never been flushed and the moisture and dirt caused the failure. And that failure holds true for 99% of problems, you have to flush the system from time to time. The dirt in the fluid will eventually cause problems. For the cost of a flush vs replacing parts, I'd flush every 2 years.
I mean think about what people do when an automatic trans starts acting up. First thing they do is a flush and filter change. Anything else lubricated in the car should be no different. If P/S acts up, flush it first. If brakes act up, flush them first.
It's pretty uncommon for an ABS hydraulic unit to go bad on any car, of any generation/manufacturer.
The only one I've done that I know was bad was on a 1997 Lexus ES 300. A valve inside had corroded so bad it stuck. The reason it failed was the brake fluid had never been flushed and the moisture and dirt caused the failure. And that failure holds true for 99% of problems, you have to flush the system from time to time. The dirt in the fluid will eventually cause problems. For the cost of a flush vs replacing parts, I'd flush every 2 years.
I mean think about what people do when an automatic trans starts acting up. First thing they do is a flush and filter change. Anything else lubricated in the car should be no different. If P/S acts up, flush it first. If brakes act up, flush them first.
Thanks - I did a fair amount of research before buying it in 2008 with 55K on it. They've got a pretty good rep for being decent cars. Besides the ABS control module, I've had to replace control arms, upper bushings, tie-rods and link pins on both sides. I've also got a stupid electrical issue that's killed the trunk release and the rear wiper.
The mechanic is new to me - he got code 1342 for the ABS issue.
The mechanic is new to me - he got code 1342 for the ABS issue.
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609 Posts
On the ABS-traction control issue, my first thing would be to have the ABS-traction control trouble codes read. A standard code reader will probably not work (unless it has ABS code capabilities), but an ELM327 based USB or bluetooth OBD2 reader along with Forscan should be able to read those, and most/all other trouble codes on Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles.
The trunk release/rear wiper issue probably is due to broken wires in the umbilical between the body and hatch lid, a common problem do a search for it for more information.
My car had that issue worked on before I bought the car, but was quite sloppily done so it doesn't quite seal back to the car so I will have to rework that one of these days.
The trunk release/rear wiper issue probably is due to broken wires in the umbilical between the body and hatch lid, a common problem do a search for it for more information.
My car had that issue worked on before I bought the car, but was quite sloppily done so it doesn't quite seal back to the car so I will have to rework that one of these days.
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44,595 Posts
First confirm the problem as others mentioned.
The most common one for ABS/TC is when bearings are replaced with ones that don't have the tone ring for the sensor, or are installed backwards. Next most common is damage to the sensor wiring, that can happen to any vehicle with an ABS system.
iminhell covered maint. that's seldom done to any cars.
Parts/design on the car are sourced worldwide, an "import" might have the same brand ABS system.
Suspension joint wear happens to all, "lifetime" joints that can't be lubed guarantees it. Helped a bud fix his Porsche with an electrical problem at the driver's door umbilical, some problems happen to all eventually.
The most common one for ABS/TC is when bearings are replaced with ones that don't have the tone ring for the sensor, or are installed backwards. Next most common is damage to the sensor wiring, that can happen to any vehicle with an ABS system.
iminhell covered maint. that's seldom done to any cars.
Parts/design on the car are sourced worldwide, an "import" might have the same brand ABS system.
Suspension joint wear happens to all, "lifetime" joints that can't be lubed guarantees it. Helped a bud fix his Porsche with an electrical problem at the driver's door umbilical, some problems happen to all eventually.
Thanks for the input everyone - I just ordered TOAD + the ELM327 Bluetooth interface. Before I took the car to the mechanic, I specifically asked if he could diagnose ABS, which he said he could. I guess he misinterpreted what I was asking, either that or he is ignorant of ABS diagnostics.
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Check speed sensors, if a flush doesn't help.
So I rec'd the ELM27 Bluetooth last Friday - when I tried it out, it would not stay connected - I contacted TOAD on the 23rd and they still haven't replied to me. Makes me think they are a fraud - their product looks good but the support is non-existent. I will be disputing the charge when my CC bill comes in.
Six year old brake fluid, possibly nine year old fluid and the car is in Canada.
I am surprised the calipers and master cylinder haven't had issues as well.
Hint, brake fluid should look like pale ginger ale, not black coffee.
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