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Discussion Starter #1
My 2014 says I can go up to 10,000 on an oil change. That seems awful far to me especially with direct injection. Do you guys have any opinions on this? Maybe can you guys post pictures on your valvetrain running certain oils? Thanks everyone.
 

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Depends on the oil its self and if it is rated for that length. Mobil 1 "pure synthetic" has oil rated for 15,000 with a healthy engine (Good gaskets, properly operating PCV valve, good piston rings, ect.). If you run standered oil, nothing will be affected but you will need to change your oil more frequently normally 3000 miles is recommended with dino... again depending on the oil.

This is why syn is recommended, saves money, saves the oil reserve.

Direct injection affects oil in no way. Just as the fuel pump affects oil in no way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Unless I'm misunderstood di is harder on oil and has more fuel dilution than a regular efi system correct? Maybe with ford that's a non issue buthat I've read of some issues in general with di.
 

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The general consensus on the bobistheoilguy forums is that DI usually does increase fuel dilution in the oil.
As a general rule, direct injection definitely can increase fuel dilution of the oil but anecdotally in this forum, UOA (used oil analysis) has not shown it to be a significant problem with the Ford TI-VCT motor.

My recommendation is to always use synthetic oil in DI engines. Choose a quality synthetic with the lowest NOACK score (volatility) you can find. I would not go 10,000 miles on an oil change ever. The manual may say that but Ford's general oil change guidelines contradict this:

Every 7,500 miles or every six months, whichever comes first

OR

Every 5,000 miles or every six months, whichever comes first if

Towing or carrying heavy loads
Idling extensively or driving at low speeds for long distances
Driving in dusty conditions
Driving off-road frequently
Using E85 fuel more than 50% of the time

http://support.ford.com/maintenance/when-to-change-oil

Chart of major brand synthetics:

http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html
 

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If you're in the Midwest USA, I think the best deal on oil is at Menards. Every 6-8 weeks roughly they have Quaker State Ultimate Durability full synthetic for $2.99/quart after mail in rebate (store credit). $4.99 without rebate. Hard to find name-brand non synthetic for $2.99 now-a-days. It's on sale again this week actually.
 

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As a general rule, direct injection definitely can increase fuel dilution of the oil but anecdotally in this forum, UOA (used oil analysis) has not shown it to be a significant problem with the Ford TI-VCT motor.

My recommendation is to always use synthetic oil in DI engines. Choose a quality synthetic with the lowest NOACK score (volatility) you can find. I would not go 10,000 miles on an oil change ever. The manual may say that but Ford's general oil change guidelines contradict this:

Every 7,500 miles or every six months, whichever comes first

OR

Every 5,000 miles or every six months, whichever comes first if

Towing or carrying heavy loads
Idling extensively or driving at low speeds for long distances
Driving in dusty conditions
Driving off-road frequently
Using E85 fuel more than 50% of the time

http://support.ford.com/maintenance/when-to-change-oil

Chart of major brand synthetics:

http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html
When I look up my 2013 Focus maintenance schedule on Ford's website, it states

Change engine oil and replace oil filter when indicated on vehicle message center or every 12 months, whichever occurs first.
 

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Contrary to popular belief, severe service intervals are just that. The normal intervals aren't some wishful thinking unicorn you somehow never fall under. Of course dealers and such try to tell you otherwise, because obviously more often hopefully = more money for them by their thinking.

Also, those recommendations are based on the particular API spec called for. This doesn't mean that somehow conventional oil will not be good enough and synthetic will be far better. That is not how it works. If the conventional oil is within the API spec called for, it is fine for the intervals called for. Now yes, a synthetic may in fact be better and last longer, but really what difference does it make when both are good for the interval you are actually changing at.

I think if these really short interval oil change people actually got an analysis done on their used oil, they would be pretty shocked how much life is left/how good of condition that oil still is. Hell, same can be said for those changing at the normal recommended intervals, ESPECIALLY synthetic users. I'd just get the cheapest stuff I felt comfortable with that is in spec, change it at the normal recommended intervals, and call it a day. Cheapest stuff I felt comfortable with in my case is prob any name brand. I'd shy away from some house brand stuff at a grocery store for example even though it may be in spec, but in actuality even it would be fine too, but that's me. The other avenue you could take is to get analysis done on used oil and base your intervals on actual condition. You would go much longer between changes, especially with good oil, but that takes a good bit of additional effort.



At the end of the day, if spending more money on the highest quality oil and changing it much more frequently makes you feel better...have at it. It's your money, not ours.
 

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My UOA shows no fuel dilution or other problems going 8,000 miles on MC semi-syn or Pennzoil Platinum. And my 5,000 run on Pennzoil dino was perfect with plenty more oil life left.
 

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My UOA shows no fuel dilution or other problems going 8,000 miles on MC semi-syn or Pennzoil Platinum. And my 5,000 run on Pennzoil dino was perfect with plenty more oil life left.
And that is good news but the one thing a UOA can not show you is any effect the oil is having on your intake valves in regards to carbon fouling from a higher NOACK dino oil.

Plenty of residual TBN but plentiful oil vapor as well.
 

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And that is good news but the one thing a UOA can not show you is any effect the oil is having on your intake valves in regards to carbon fouling from a higher NOACK dino oil.

Plenty of residual TBN but plentiful oil vapor as well.
Good thing I used Pennzoil "yellow bottle" which has a lower NOACK than most synthetics as per PQIA.
 

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Good thing I used Pennzoil "yellow bottle" which has a lower NOACK than most synthetics as per PQIA.
You do realize that SOPUS was ditching excess GTL stock that is likely now depleted and all new inventory yellow bottle Pennzoil probably has a 14+ NOACK. (The PQI test was almost a year ago in early December 2013) You would have to test every bottle unless you knew an insider at SOPUS who could give you the magic date code or lot number that ended that anomaly.

And you know that certain lots of your favorite synthetic can't possibly have higher NOACK than you thought how?
Because SOPUS has to guarantee you are getting a full synthetic product when represented as such or risk action by the FTC. No such guarantee exists that you will continue to get full synthetic at dino prices in the yellow bottle. How do I know they were bottling GTL in the YB? Because I understand chemistry and a 6.5 NOACK in 5W-20 is unachievable with dino oil. Few competing synthetics can even match that number. Old formula Ultra was NOACK 5 in 5W-20 in full GTL base stock.
 

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i like to change mine between 5000 at the earliest and 6500 at the latest. I also run nothing but Mobil 1 full synthetic since the very first oil change. Also always remeber to set your oil monitoring system. even if you can not access it to see oil life left like some of the models it still monitors it. Also, every focus has a change oil light that will come on when the system senses the oil is used up. If your car is still under warranty and this light comes on you have 500 miles to change the oil otherwise your warranty is void. Just an fyi for any fellow newer owners who may have not been priviledged to to this information. Id hate to see someones engine warranty go out the window over something simple as an oil change. Anyways, back to the original topic synthetic oil is always a good thing to use if you have a brand new or very low mileage used car. Synthetic has better cleaning properties and can get into tighter spaces. This along with a regularly oil change regiments will keep the inside of your engine nice and clean.
 

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You do realize that SOPUS was ditching excess GTL stock that is likely now depleted and all new inventory yellow bottle Pennzoil probably has a 14+ NOACK. You would have to test every bottle unless you knew an insider at SOPUS who could give you the magic date code or lot number that ended that anomaly.
And you know this for sure how? And you know that certain lots of your favorite synthetic can't possibly have higher NOACK than you thought how?
 

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Details were posted in this thread a while ago as those anomalies were noted:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275451
I see no "details" there, only conjecture. Which I participated in. I simply wanted to know the source of wavsine's certainty. On the thread you reference he was decidedly less certain.


Exactly. At least with Pennzoil Ultra, we know the date that they changed the formulation (November 8, 2011) That reformulation dropped the NOACK to 5.0 on 5w-20 synthetic. The old Ultra had a NOACK greater than 10.

If the conventional (yellow bottle) Pennzoil 5w-20 indeed has a 6.5 NOACK, you would have to know exactly when they changed the formula so as not to buy old stock. And you would need to know if it is a permanent change or temporary.
 

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You do realize that SOPUS was ditching excess GTL stock that is likely now depleted and all new inventory yellow bottle Pennzoil probably has a 14+ NOACK. (The PQI test was almost a year ago in early December 2013) You would have to test every bottle unless you knew an insider at SOPUS who could give you the magic date code or lot number that ended that anomaly.

Because SOPUS has to guarantee you are getting a full synthetic product when represented as such or risk action by the FTC. No such guarantee exists that you will continue to get full synthetic at dino prices in the yellow bottle. How do I know they were bottling GTL in the YB? Because I understand chemistry and a 6.5 NOACK in 5W-20 is unachievable with dino oil. Few competing synthetics can even match that number. Old formula Ultra was NOACK 5 in 5W-20 in full GTL base stock.
I wasn't asking how you knew they were using GTL. I asked you how you know that it was "excess" GTL, that it's "likely now depleted" and that since PQIA's testing PYB now "probably has a 14+ NOACK."

Sources please......
 

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I wasn't asking how you knew they were using GTL. I asked you how you know that it was "excess" GTL, that it's "likely now depleted" and that since PQIA's testing PYB now "probably has a 14+ NOACK."

Sources please......
Kam, I know your Stanford-Binet score probably eclipses mine so I am puzzled why you continue to pursue this. You are more than welcome to continue running yellow bottle Pennzoil. The point behind this fruitless argument is that you have no guarantee of what you are getting with Pennzoil YB beyond the fact it will be a quality conventional oil. May be you got some of the GTL 6.5 NOACK stock. May be 14+ NOACK dino stock. Roll the dice. It's your car.

Do you realistically expect SOPUS to continue bottling GTL in the economy conventional yellow bottle when the NOACK score puts their premium Ultra Platinum product to shame?
 

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Kam, I know your Stanford-Binet score probably eclipses mine so I am puzzled why you continue to pursue this.
Because I don't like statements like "You do realize that SOPUS was ditching excess GTL stock" when it's all pure conjecture. Next time try starting with "I'm fairly certain that....." Emphasis on the word "excess" and the "belief" that it was a temporary formulation.
 
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