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High mileage oils usually have "seal swelling" additives, that's the difference.
 

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One is made from crude oil and the other is made from coal.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Once I get to my 3rd oil change on the new engine, Mobil 1 goes back in.
 

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Do you leak / burn any oil?

If no, then I wouldn't even consider one
HM oil wont fix a leak or burning oil, once a gasket/seal is bad the only way to fix it is to replace it. It may provide a temporary band aid or slow a leak but don't count on it to fix the problem.

125k miles really isn't that much, if your burning oil/leaking oil fixing the problem would be more helpful than putting HM oil in it and hoping for a magic fix.
 

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HM oil wont fix a leak or burning oil, once a gasket/seal is bad the only way to fix it is to replace it. It may provide a temporary band aid or slow a leak but don't count on it to fix the problem.

125k miles really isn't that much, if your burning oil/leaking oil fixing the problem would be more helpful than putting HM oil in it and hoping for a magic fix.
I agree. I have a vehicle that leaks a lot ... I just add oil when it needs oil.
 

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The seal swell additives will help a weaping rear main
 

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Stick with the 5W20 synthetic or semi-synthetic oil. There is no need to go as thick as 10W30 (which was meant for older V8 engines with "loose" manufacturing tolerances). Running too thick of oil could cause a loss in fuel economy. The reason manufactures are calling for the thinner oils nowadays is due to the tighter tolerances in the engine don't need such a thick oil and to help get better fuel economy due to lower pumping losses of the lighter oils.

On both of my Escorts I always ran 5W30 semi-synth oil in them (the recommended grade), the 93 has almost 220K on the clock and the 98 has over 170K on it (both with the SOHC engine). Both only have minor leaks that come with age and are mechanically in good shape still (for engine oil lubricated surfaces), and always ran 5000 mile oil (or more if a lot of highway driving) change intervals on both.
 

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Guess it's not an issue in Florida, but 10w-30 is also a lot slower to start pumping in the extreme cold .... like here in NY
 

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Guess it's not an issue in Florida, but 10w-30 is also a lot slower to start pumping in the extreme cold .... like here in NY
And that's a point that many people overlook...it depends on where you live and drive.

Here in Texas where summertime temps are often above 100, and winter temps are mild (compared to other places), then a 0W or 5W is not needed and a 30W gives better protection.

So, 5W-30 or 10W-30 would work great in TX or FL, but maybe a 5W-20 would be better in NY.
 
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