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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I want to start by saying that I know nothing about car audio. I wanted to hear some BASS on my car. I bought some stuff from Walmart.

I bought http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10569318#Specifications

along with there 1000 sony amp:http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-car_amplifiers_sony_xplod_xm_1652z

Did I over did it?

I was reading an article that you have to match the RMS on both areas in

order to not damage any equipment.

I had a Kenwood KAC-6202 and I was not sure if I could have used it with this Speaker.

Also the speaker sounds really awesome, but then again I do not want to

damage anything or overkill anything.

I need some advice.

Thanks,

John[ffrocks]
 

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I.S.A.I.K.I.
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Nah, you did good with your new equipment. The Sony amps are perfectly matched to compliment their subs. The Kenwood amp is just to anemic to produce good clean sound for those subs where it's peak power is not much more than what your Sony amp produces at RMS.
 

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How are you with wiring abilities? You're going to have to know a few things when running your cables, what gauge of cable, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I bought the Schoch wiring kit from Walmart also it stated that it was for AMPS up to 1000 Watts, I have the inline fuse, all the wires etc....Do I need a capacitor for this type of AMP and woofer?

My amp wire the blue thick one said 8 gauge. I read up on sony.com that I needed atleast a 4 gague cable so I think I am good.

Thanks,

John
 

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8 gauge wire is smaller than 4 gauge, but you'll be fine with what you've got. You could purchase a capacitor to take some strain off your battery and electrical system, not necessary for what you've got, but definitely a recommendation.
 

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It is better to overpower a speaker then underpower a speaker.
I don't see how....

I've been running a 450 watt amp on a 750 watt RMS, 1500 peak power sub for 3 years and never had any issues.

If you overpower a sub you are going to blow it so I don't see how it's better to overpower than to underpower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So would you agree with what Peregrine said that everything will be working fine the way I have it??

I notice that will just a little volume the speaker like wants to pop out of the box.. Is

that normal?

Thanks,

John
 

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You probably need to turn your amp down alot. Remember you have 1000 watt amp to a 300 watt sub. If you have that amp all the way up you are going to blow the sub quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Question then:

Why is it that the speaker on the front of the woofer is says its 1000 Watts?

That is what I went by....

Thanks,

John
 

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I don't see how....

I've been running a 450 watt amp on a 750 watt RMS, 1500 peak power sub for 3 years and never had any issues.

If you overpower a sub you are going to blow it so I don't see how it's better to overpower than to underpower.

It's low power distortion at higher volume levels that destroy speakers.

This is taken from carstereo.com....

Power Considerations
Most people think that if they use a 50 watt per channel amplifier on their factory speakers, the speakers will be damaged. This may be true if the speakers do not have crossovers blocking off frequencies speakers were not designed to play. What destroys speakers is distortion. If you turn the volume all the way up on the radio, there will be distortion. If you start hearing distortion, turn the volume down. A high power amplifier allows the volume in the system to be higher, while the volume control on the radio is down in the range where no distortion is present. It is better to have more power than what you need to get cleaner sound.
So how much power do you really need? As much as you can afford. At a minimum, 30 to 50 Watts (each) would be OK for your front and rear speakers, while a little bit more (100-150 Watts) should be applied to each sub. If you are powering up your tweeters independently, they require less power (20 - 40 Watts). Example: A four-channel set-up with separates in the front and coaxials in the rear with two subs will need about 40 Watts on each channel (Total=160W), and 100W going into each sub (Total=200W). Notice that total power going to subs is more than total power going to the rest of the speakers. This is because our ears are less sensitive to bass.

The rest of the page can be found here... http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=50
 

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I.S.A.I.K.I.
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I don't see how....

I've been running a 450 watt amp on a 750 watt RMS, 1500 peak power sub for 3 years and never had any issues.

If you overpower a sub you are going to blow it so I don't see how it's better to overpower than to underpower.

It's low power distortion at higher volume levels that destroy speakers.

This is taken from carstereo.com....

Power Considerations
Most people think that if they use a 50 watt per channel amplifier on their factory speakers, the speakers will be damaged. This may be true if the speakers do not have crossovers blocking off frequencies speakers were not designed to play. What destroys speakers is distortion. If you turn the volume all the way up on the radio, there will be distortion. If you start hearing distortion, turn the volume down. A high power amplifier allows the volume in the system to be higher, while the volume control on the radio is down in the range where no distortion is present. It is better to have more power than what you need to get cleaner sound.
So how much power do you really need? As much as you can afford. At a minimum, 30 to 50 Watts (each) would be OK for your front and rear speakers, while a little bit more (100-150 Watts) should be applied to each sub. If you are powering up your tweeters independently, they require less power (20 - 40 Watts). Example: A four-channel set-up with separates in the front and coaxials in the rear with two subs will need about 40 Watts on each channel (Total=160W), and 100W going into each sub (Total=200W). Notice that total power going to subs is more than total power going to the rest of the speakers. This is because our ears are less sensitive to bass.

The rest of the page can be found here... http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=50
 

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You probably need to turn your amp down alot. Remember you have 1000 watt amp to a 300 watt sub. If you have that amp all the way up you are going to blow the sub quickly.
The 1000w rating is just the burst peak power output for a short time. It won't damage his speakers since they're built within the same output specs of the amplifier.


Question then:

Why is it that the speaker on the front of the woofer is says its 1000 Watts?

That is what I went by....

Thanks,

John
John, don't worry. You're not going to damage your speakers using the Sony, but you will with the tiny Kenwood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank God...


Thanks guys I appreciate the help... You are correct I did raised the gain on the amp to 6 and I have my stereo in BASS 0 and it shaking my whole car still and I cannot even hear the song with out the bass slamming against my back... What is the proper way to adjust the gain and BASS in the stereo?

Sorry I am ignorant when it comes to stereo, but I love the BASS...

Thanks,

John
 

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If you have a bass boost feature in your head unit, you can adjust the bass volume that way. Alot of the newer headunits have this feature to control the bass of your subenclosure alone from the main bass adjustments that effect the rest of your speakers.

You'll have to move your enclosure around to see what sounds best to your liking (facing the box backwards into the hatch).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also what wire can I use to help me make my AMP wire longer. There is a thin blue wire that come's from my stereo to the AMP and its very short so I cannot move the box around in the trunk like I want to. What gague is that wire so I can make it longer??

Thanks

John
 

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Also what wire can I use to help me make my AMP wire longer. There is a thin blue wire that come's from my stereo to the AMP and its very short so I cannot move the box around in the trunk like I want to. What gague is that wire so I can make it longer??

Thanks

John
That small wire is the remote wire that turns your amp on when you turn on the stereo. Usually they're very small, something like 12 or 14 or 14/16 gauge wire. You can extended it with another piece of like wire.

As far as the power cable goes, just find a local stereo shop that will cut the stuff by the foot for you. It might run $3-$4 a foot depending where you go, and have them crimp a terminal on the end for you while you're there. Size wise I would go with the same size you got in that wiring kit or ask for one gauge size larger. The idea is to get as big gauge wire sufficient for your system. The larger the cable, the less resistance running through the wire. Think of trying to suck a milkshake through a coffeestirer instead of a regular straw, same principle.
 
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