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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So guys ive been workin at making 3d printable bushings for the base on the pre april 2002 shifters. im on rev 3 now just gotta finalise the geometry of the offset bushing for the front drivers side.

Well the final revision is up on Thingiverse. Just go there and search up "MK1 Ford Focus shifter bushing" and you will see the post. it may take 24 hrs for it to get approved but it will be there.

you will need to pick up 4 washers to put ontop of the shifter base. the stock nuts are not wide enough to bridge the hole. dont have to be any specific size just whatever works im gonna used 3/8 washers from the hardware store.

i've done this on previous cable shifted cars and it really helped clean up the vague feeling in the shifter but i didnt feel like forking out 20-50 bucks for em so ive made 3d printed ones which should be plenty tough enough printed with 80% fill.

I will post again the finished product and share a link to the file on Thingiverse when im done this afternoon. there are 5 bushings due to needing a 2mm offset on one of the front bushings but im not sure if that is somethign that is specific to my car or not so i have included 4 concentric bushings incase my car is for some reason different. once i have the offset one printed and test fit this afternoon.

instructions are pretty simple remove the center console with two screws up front and 2 (or was it 3) bolts in the back. then unbolt the shifter base from the floor. push out the metal inserts in the rubber bushings then press out the rubber bushings(inserts and rubber bushings should be be able to come out by hand or with a flat blade. then you just push these bushings onto the studs the shifter mounts to (the one with the offset hole goes on the front drivers side stud.) (they will be snug you may have to screw em on by hand depending on if your printer is kinda f#$ky like mine) then you plop the shifter houseing back down wiggle it around till it sits down on the notch on each bushing then put the washers on and the nuts. then reasembly is the opposite of teardown.
 

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My question is............why do the bushings even need to be printed at all? Seems to me that there are enough shapes out there in say a hardware store and hard plastic like nylon or even steel to replicate what I see being used there and for pennies.

I say that having rebuilt shifters and the entire assemblies on other brands to work 300% better than any OEM ever could be, and again using virtually the same parts except in size.

The offset part can be made literally in maybe 5 seconds.

Flange nuts may well be incorrectly applied there, they require a hard solid crush to work and that would squeeze your plastic out of shape doing that, probably better to use washers that cover the holes size and self locking nuts on top to pull part down tight but you can then stop short of wrecking the plastic to still have a nut that will not back off loose. Or use loctite, that would work on the flange nuts too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
because my way costs 50 cents and gets better results than hardware store material will. and from what i've seen these bushings don't get replaced by the aftermarket shifters. i could be wrong there but i dont belive they do. in which case you are putting a good shifter in a sloppy base.
 

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You obviously have no clue of what hardware store parts can do. I have literally hundreds of repairs on them on cars that are indestructible and have lasted for years. I make my own passenger side engine mounts using them after the new one breaks in a week or a month and no more trouble after that. Using the same broken mount over. I rebuild the serp belt tensioners using the same hardware parts and the tensioners then get a second lease on life too. I even have hardware store parts flinging around inside automatic transmissions that have been running for 15 + years.

I've rebuilt shifters and mountings on 500 hp. cars and higher using the same as well. And using 100% 'fill' nylon. No printer needed.

And telling me your repair will cost 50 cents, the printing alone costs more than that. I can do the entire repair for under $10 for sure and solid as a rock, the shifter itself will break before the mounting points. Your nuts and 4 washers are over 50 cents, some of us buy parts everyday. Just bought parts to repair an air compressor at $1.78 today. If the car is a high-perf one that gets slam-shifted hard the first thing I would be doing is replacing those puny studs with bigger ones to take more punishment, those are utterly pitiful and bushings there are a waste of time while keeping the OEM stud size there.

You may well be screwing up by using plastic there to begin with, I would be looking to go to 100% metal there if possible. Much more solid. And, as I already pointed out, the use of flange nuts on top of plastic defeats the use of the plastic, which is to give some vibration resistance as well as semi-solidity, tighten the flange nuts up tight and you might as well be all metal there. The effect will be the same but because of the plastic squeezability the nuts will likely back off due to the fact that most plastics flow with torque put on them and sustained. Unless the studs are limiter type.

Printing is fine and the next new thing on complicated shapes but when the basic round ones are available by simply walking in the door and buying them then printing them is quite frankly stupid. There are simply way too many choices already in existence to choose from.

That's OK, I saw plenty of others come into the car parts stores when I worked there that insisted on paying for lesser parts that would not work as well just because they were sold in an auto parts store, people are silly enough to think some whacky things about what works and what won't. Luckily the parts are not smart enough to know that. Tell people about cheaper parts that work better from hardware store and their heads explode, they simply cannot go there. Not my problem, I have made as much as $2000/hr. using hardware store parts before. Lessee you touch that.

You'll learn.........or maybe you won't, some never do and the money pits are for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well final revision is done i will update OP with the link i will update OP with the link. this final revision dropped right in and fit perfect while still being snug on the threaded studs
 

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Some of us got to shift Doug Nash 5 speeds using steel plate 5/8" thick to hold parts in place with 700 hp. 300 inch engines at 10,000 rpm. That shifter box is...well...less than desired.......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
not sure how thats relevant but cool all the same. most of the cars ive raced were around the 500 hp mark but i don't do drag racing except for friday night street legals. mostly my competitive racing is track and autox
 
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