Dent Removal?
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16 Posts
try a suction cup style puller, there avalible at any autoparts store, would be paintless too
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26,535 Posts
well..... either take the door panel off itself, and bang it from the inside (you'd have to cut around the sticky stuff too, which sucks 
) or if you don't care about making other dents (I know that suzuki metal used to be very....dent prone, my dad made tons of extra dents trying to get one out lol) just use one of those er.. dent kings or something... let's hope someone comes up with a better alternative, though I think your best bet is from the inside.... only if I'm correct, the metal would have been expanded, making it pretty much impossible to fix it perfectly.... though of course it'd look great
) or if you don't care about making other dents (I know that suzuki metal used to be very....dent prone, my dad made tons of extra dents trying to get one out lol) just use one of those er.. dent kings or something... let's hope someone comes up with a better alternative, though I think your best bet is from the inside.... only if I'm correct, the metal would have been expanded, making it pretty much impossible to fix it perfectly.... though of course it'd look great
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278 Posts
not to thread jack or anything but i have one on my factory side skirt, how would i get it out, and do the side skirts come off
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1,917 Posts
take a dust blower thing for your keyboard and turn it upside down and spray on and around the dent, this way the liquid nitrogen (?) comes out. put a lot of it on there and the get a hair dryer, put it on high heat and heat up the area quickly. popped one of mine right out but it depends on where it is.
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29 Posts
freekin awesome.
will this tecnique work on a dent about 5 inched long? looks like someone tried to key the car, but dented it, and didnt scratch the paint.
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330 Posts
I hate to say it but.....All of your info is wrong guys.
I'm the Co-owner of a Paintless Dent Repair comany in San Antonio, Texas so believe me when I tell you that you probably won't be able to fix it yourself.
I really suggest just finding a good PDR guy in your area to take care of it.
The reason I say this is because if you try to push the dent out, you run the risk of cracking the paint.
I see people try to do this a lot...and I have to turn them away because once the paint is cracked, you have to get the dent filled and painted...and that's not cheap.
As for the compressed air/heat, it is true that metal expands and contracts when it's heated and cooled and there is a chance that the metal may POP on a large, shallow dent, but the chances of you having a dent like that are slim.
There is also the "dry ice" myth which works almost the same way, but actually will weaken your paint considerably.
I also noticed that one poster said something about the suction cups.
The kits you are refering to are not actually suction cups. They are tabs that you put hot glue on and stick it to the paint and use what's called a "bridge" to 'POP' the dent out and these kits are a waste of money.
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If you'll notice the bridge has 2 round feet. A lot of customers bought into the hype that they could just POP the dent out and they were completely let down.
The "Ding King" did sometimes pull the dent up, but in the process pulled it WAY too far up...so instead of having a dent, you were left with a nasty high spot. DOH!
To top that off, the two round feet usually left 2 extra dents behind from the pulling force of the glued tab.
The third thing that did this product in was that they conveniently forgot to tell you how to take the hardened hot glue off of your paint surface. WHOOPS!
I've always advised against that thing.....
As for how I know this.....I've been doing PDR for the past 6 years and have spend a lot of money and lots of years perfecting my art.
Remember when I was telling you about cracking the paint? Here's an example.
This customer of mine took a screwdriver and tried to POP the dent out...but unfortunately, dent's don't POP out 99% of the time.
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can you see the paint cracks?
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I had to charge this guy double what I normally would have because I had to go back and fix his mistakes.
I was able to fix the dent afterward, but not the paint cracks. He now needs to have his whole fender repainted over that.
Here is another dent that he tried to do on the same fender. I was able to fix it completely...but again, not the paint cracks.
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Here is a pic of the same dent outside. As you can see, there is no sign of the dent.
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He also had this dent on his door that he approved of me fixing and THANK GOD he didn't try to hack this one up....
It was involved in the bodyline so it took a little time, but it came out completely.
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Here is the same dent with my PDR light on it to show the full detail of the dent.
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And after some working:
Bada Bing..no more dent
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No evidence that it was ever there.
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I'm the Co-owner of a Paintless Dent Repair comany in San Antonio, Texas so believe me when I tell you that you probably won't be able to fix it yourself.
I really suggest just finding a good PDR guy in your area to take care of it.
The reason I say this is because if you try to push the dent out, you run the risk of cracking the paint.
I see people try to do this a lot...and I have to turn them away because once the paint is cracked, you have to get the dent filled and painted...and that's not cheap.
As for the compressed air/heat, it is true that metal expands and contracts when it's heated and cooled and there is a chance that the metal may POP on a large, shallow dent, but the chances of you having a dent like that are slim.
There is also the "dry ice" myth which works almost the same way, but actually will weaken your paint considerably.
I also noticed that one poster said something about the suction cups.
The kits you are refering to are not actually suction cups. They are tabs that you put hot glue on and stick it to the paint and use what's called a "bridge" to 'POP' the dent out and these kits are a waste of money.
If you'll notice the bridge has 2 round feet. A lot of customers bought into the hype that they could just POP the dent out and they were completely let down.
The "Ding King" did sometimes pull the dent up, but in the process pulled it WAY too far up...so instead of having a dent, you were left with a nasty high spot. DOH!
To top that off, the two round feet usually left 2 extra dents behind from the pulling force of the glued tab.
The third thing that did this product in was that they conveniently forgot to tell you how to take the hardened hot glue off of your paint surface. WHOOPS!
I've always advised against that thing.....
As for how I know this.....I've been doing PDR for the past 6 years and have spend a lot of money and lots of years perfecting my art.
Remember when I was telling you about cracking the paint? Here's an example.
This customer of mine took a screwdriver and tried to POP the dent out...but unfortunately, dent's don't POP out 99% of the time.
can you see the paint cracks?
I had to charge this guy double what I normally would have because I had to go back and fix his mistakes.
I was able to fix the dent afterward, but not the paint cracks. He now needs to have his whole fender repainted over that.
Here is another dent that he tried to do on the same fender. I was able to fix it completely...but again, not the paint cracks.
Here is a pic of the same dent outside. As you can see, there is no sign of the dent.
He also had this dent on his door that he approved of me fixing and THANK GOD he didn't try to hack this one up....
It was involved in the bodyline so it took a little time, but it came out completely.
Here is the same dent with my PDR light on it to show the full detail of the dent.
And after some working:
Bada Bing..no more dent
No evidence that it was ever there.
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330 Posts
And to add to my previous post.....like Stivo said, PDR is not usually that expensive, but the larger and more complex your dent is, the more it will cost.
I work on all kinds of cars...so it also depends on the type of car as well. We usually charge more for higher end cars or cars that have aluminum panels because they are generally harder to work on.
This is a red 2008 Focus that I did a few weeks ago.
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After a little bit of working...there is no sign that it was ever there.
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There are times that larger dents can be done as well and these require LOTS OF WORK.
I dubbed this one "The Monster". It was a 17 inch long, deep crease on a Hyundai Sonata. It took me about 7 hours to complete, but came out very nicely.
I charged this woman $500 to do...which is what her deductible was. The body shop wanted over $900.00 to fix....so we saved her $400 and she didn't have to go through her insurance company.
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........and after 7 hours of sweat and tears.....
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I'm serious when I tell you that PDR is the way to go.
dave.
I work on all kinds of cars...so it also depends on the type of car as well. We usually charge more for higher end cars or cars that have aluminum panels because they are generally harder to work on.
This is a red 2008 Focus that I did a few weeks ago.
After a little bit of working...there is no sign that it was ever there.
There are times that larger dents can be done as well and these require LOTS OF WORK.
I dubbed this one "The Monster". It was a 17 inch long, deep crease on a Hyundai Sonata. It took me about 7 hours to complete, but came out very nicely.
I charged this woman $500 to do...which is what her deductible was. The body shop wanted over $900.00 to fix....so we saved her $400 and she didn't have to go through her insurance company.
........and after 7 hours of sweat and tears.....
I'm serious when I tell you that PDR is the way to go.
dave.
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758 Posts
Wow Dave you are a true talent! I wish you were closer to my area, i've got a few dings that need taking care of!
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330 Posts
ironically, I used to live in Raleigh.... until about 3 years ago when I moved here to San Antonio to start a business.
dave.
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2,334 Posts
DING KING!!!!!!!! had the same problem and it pulled it right out[headbang]
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