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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i didnt seem to find any how tos or any threads with any decent pictures of how to do it so i decided to just start a new thread and list my issues in here.

I tried to paint my intake and didnt like how it turned out so i decided to get a new one. Kdog from massive had a new one he sold me at a good price so i decided since i have 2 ill tear one of em up.

Since its already off the car that part is over but ive had my stock one off before to do the PVC delete it wasnt as bad as everyone made it sound. While it was off thats when i ruined it by trying to pretty it up.

T-25 torx to remove the 3 screws holding the actuator on then it just slips off the end of the square rod running threw all 4 flaps.


Use a pair of needle nose to slide the rod out. Mine is unused to it pulled out pretty easy. I remember my stock one has some carbon build up on it which might make it a little more tricky.



I used a flat head to pry around the lip of the flap sleve it just slide right out pretty straight forward.

Here you can see how much more it opens up with the sleve out. This is where im unsure what i should do. Leave the sleve out or keep it in?



With it out you can see it gains almost a 1/2" where it bolts to the head, but this might cause issues with the o-ring gasket?

Also now there is a long hole that goes from the lever where the actuator was all the way threw the whole intake mount. I know i want to plug the actuator side but what about on each intake port?

 

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id leave the sleeve in but dremel down those two nubs that held the flap in place. I could see it having sealing issues without.

id be willing to bet that the inside of the sleeve matches up well with the port on the head, where the unsleeved one wont and looks bad for flow (sharp edges, weird shape)
 

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Will you need to re-tune the car? I know on the 2005-10 mustangs they had those flaps and needed a re-tune. Think the 2012 focus has those as well?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Well i guess im committed on this one now. No going back now. Next is to figure out how to plug it up. I have an idea but ill have to think on it a bit more.



Plugs and "quick steel" i found at oreiley. The plugs looked like they might fit but i got the quick steel anyway its a putty you can need and it starts to mix together and setup. I figured i could roll it up stuff it into the intake holes and then slide the sleves over it. Since the holes on the intake are about .45" and the hole on the sleve is .27" the sleve will keep the plug in. Then when you bolt the intake to the head the head pushes on the sleve and holds it in.

I also found some rubber plugs that i got to slide in with a little oil and they are an automotive rubber so i think it will hold up just as good. I just need a few more.



And i got one inserted.


edit: Used the quick steel putty to plug the PCV inlet, the 2 vacuum ports one on the front and one on the right side of the intake near the TB and then i plugged the port where the actuator arm went in. I plugged it on the inside with those rubber vacuum plugs then the quick steel over top of them.

It hardens like JB weld and i dont see any of it being sucked in to the intake in these areas.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Will you need to re-tune the car? I know on the 2005-10 mustangs they had those flaps and needed a re-tune. Think the 2012 focus has those as well?
Yeah im sure i will because it will probably change the way it runs and idles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
id leave the sleeve in but dremel down those two nubs that held the flap in place. I could see it having sealing issues without.
That wont work


Ill need to find something larger that will fit into the intake but larger then the sleve. The sleve will holed the "plug" in the center between the 2 port.

Cant use glue or anything stupid, if the fuel breaks down the plug and it sucks it into the head it will detonate.

I think im playing with fire [scratch]

id be willing to bet that the inside of the sleeve matches up well with the port on the head, where the unsleeved one wont and looks bad for flow (sharp edges, weird shape)
I wondered about that when i did my PCV delete, look where the intake matches up with the head. The head actualy needs ported to match the intake.

 

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I wouldn't worry about plugging the whole left by the rod. It just goes to the next runner right?
 

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I wouldn't worry about plugging the whole left by the rod. It just goes to the next runner right?
Wouldnt that mess with the air flow? The point of removing these is to get more flow of air not have it restricted and "bump" around? But i could be horribly wrong and not filling them might not matter. Dyno and get some sensor things so we can see numbers! [popcorn]
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got my pipes in thursday so i ran around all day trying to get it installed no one would do it so ill have to wait till monday which is who quoted me the price and stuff anyway but i hoped i could get it done today.

I think i want to plug them between each runner, also at the end where the lever from the actuator was attached to the rod.

Im not quite sure how it will work without them being plugged i just think i should.
 

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Say, Ronnie your car will run & sound great w/ your new exhaust installed! What are you trying to do by deleting the tumble flap's? You will probitley gain some top end, but at the exspense of lower end torque, specialley w/ your header & exhaust system. You have a 20 motor, so it's going to be more noticeably than a 23 motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Say, Ronnie your car will run & sound great w/ your new exhaust installed! What are you trying to do by deleting the tumble flap's? You will probitley gain some top end, but at the exspense of lower end torque, specialley w/ your header & exhaust system. You have a 20 motor, so it's going to be more noticeably than a 23 motor.
Just open up the intake a little more. Have it tuned like the add on intakes. Get rid of a few of the extra gadgets that control and monitor the flaps.

Just tear it up i guess [rolleyes]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok i found the plugs, i need to pickup a few more and that part is out of the way.

Now im stuck on the 2 items mounted to the intake.

One is the actuator, should i just leave it connected and functioning? I mean how will it know if its working or not?

I also have this thing below the IAC which looks alot like the MAF its bolted to the main intake runner and has a little tip that fits down into the air stream. Is it another air sensing module of some kind? I dont think anyone has ever talked about it or what it does.

Says: 4S4G-9F479-AB on it and a google search says is a "MAP" sensor. I guess ill need to leave that?



There is a vac line in the center front of the intake that goes down under and around into this other unit and that goes into the actuator.



I would think since im not using the actuator thing that controls the flaps (if thats even what is called?) i could bypass it unless it throws a code the cossie doesnt use any of this stuff so i would think i wouldnt have to for this mod either?
 

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The sensor is the MAP. The other thing you have circled is the solenoid that works the tumble flaps. You can see the vacuum line that goes from the solenoid to the diaphragm. Since your deleting the tumble flaps you don't need any of this stuff. Yo do need the MAP sensor though. However, you definitely going to need a tune and you're definitely going to a CEL until you have a new tune file loaded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The sensor is the MAP. The other thing you have circled is the solenoid that works the tumble flaps. You can see the vacuum line that goes from the solenoid to the diaphragm. Since your deleting the tumble flaps you don't need any of this stuff. Yo do need the MAP sensor though. However, you definitely going to need a tune and you're definitely going to a CEL until you have a new tune file loaded.
Yeah i already talked to Tom about it, so i dont need them hooked up?

What if i just hook them up normaly but i remove the arm that connects to the tumble flaps? The solenoid with the 2 vacuum lines on it one comes out of the intake goes into the solenoid then out to the diaphram and that has the arm that rotates the flaps. I could just remove the arm and then everything would still function or think its functioning but not actually move anything.

I would rather remove everything for less clutter
 

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Since you took out the tumble flaps, finish it off and take the rest of it out. Dtecs have way too much junk/clutter on the motor. Removing them should deffinitly help air flow in the higher rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Since you took out the tumble flaps, finish it off and take the rest of it out. Dtecs have way too much junk/clutter on the motor. Removing them should deffinitly help air flow in the higher rpm.
Yes they do, and while i was at it i cut off all the crap on the intake as well.

There is vacuum inlet lines in 2 different places im not going to use, im going to fill those. It also had tabs and push in connector things scattered all over the thing ive cut all those off. Also the intake runners have these little fins on the top front i cut those off and sanded them all down.

I have a few more things to do then im going to paint it and throw it on. Im thinking Wednesday. My brother got an exhaust in today so we will do that first then finish mine up. Hope i can get a fune tunes in it before the weekend.
 

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yeah you don't need any of it. It's all gets taken out when you install a Cossie also.
 

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this is a cool thread. the 2.3 intake mani has two of those vacuum things, one for tumble flaps and one for runner length control. its an even more cluttered and tight fit. i just pulled mine over the weekend for the pcv delete. pulling PSUrivie's '09 2.0L mani was a lot easier i thought.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well after buying my exhaust and a new cluster with a tach im tapped on my budget or ide go and get a dyno run before i put this one on.

Ill have it all painted up and finished tomorrow. Maybe i can put it on later if my brothers exhaust on his car goes ok.

maybe next month i can do that.
 

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Don't match the head to the intake, you may cause more problems by doing that.

By all means let us know what kind of power you gain, and if you lose any fuel economy.
 
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