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Hello forum users, I am in need of your assistance with my girlfriends focus that is having some problems. I drive a VW, so this car is not that easy to troubleshoot..plus this seems like an electrical problem which i am not very good at.

Car: 2002 Focus ZX3 Zetec 2.0L DOHC MFI Automatic
Mileage: 188k+
Modifications: none, car is completely stock

The car makes alot of noise, drive like poo pretty much. I believe the passenger fan that turns on when coolant temp is high is shot..when we sit in traffic or drive that fan turns on and it sounds like the bearing is either gone completely inside or the fan is way out of balance...the car does overheat when standing too long. Coolant level is good.

Today we were driving to see a movie and at a red light while it was idling the car decided to turn off completely. It just dropped off like we turned the key to off position. There was no struggle to stay alive. I put it in park, turned key and it luckily started back up. Me and my girlfriend were a bit stunned but continued on our way. After the movie we realized that we may have left the inner dome light on. Later that night we stopped by advanced auto parts to pick up some Castrol oil and a Purolator filter so we can change the oil. Got to the driveway, put the car up on jackstands. Dropped the oil and oil filter, refilled the thing with 4.5 Quarts of oil (soaked filter with oil). I asked her to start the car so some oil can reciruclate and i can check the level...she started the car and about 15 seconds later the car did the same thing..it just died.

This time when you turned the key the dash lights were barely on. The only real visible light was the red oil light on the right side. The airbag light would come on for a second and then go away. Security light is flashing.

Observations:

Relays clicking inside engine bay behind airbox and under the dash (mainly under the dash when the door is open).
Car does not attempt to crank
Battery has 12.9 V
When we connected jumped cables from one car to the focus the Dome light came on with door open and as soon as we put key in to try and turn key it went dead...dome light disappeared and the same relay clicking happened.
OBD2 port does not work when key is all the way is starting position.

This car has had a history of issues, engine mount failures, electrical starting issues. The battery has a terminal spacer because the terminal would get lose and not start the car so it required a wiggle.

Things it may be
Ignition switch
Ignition Relay
ECU dead (when she was sold the car they mentioned ECU had a problem)



Anyone can lead me in the right direction? I am waiting until tomorrow to start looking at it, its been late tonight. Any help is appreciated tremendously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
bump

tried differnet battery that is known to be good, same thing

as soon as i open the door the battery saver relay R24 starts to click. Swapping relays with the next one doesn't help.

No lights, no radio, no odometer reading, only a dim oil light and airbag light

When i take the battery relay out and put the key in the door chime goes on, but it still acts the same way.
 

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Get good battery cables on it and go from there. Sounds like you are losing power to everything and you have mickey mouse cable ends on it. I'd start there.
 

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so i have simalar to this... went to store then went to turn car on hesitated... but then i stopped and turned it over again then started i got about half way home engine started making a clunking noise >.< sux i know but my oil light is on or flshes im like scared to run my car.. dont wanna blow it up does anyone have any sugestions to do with this? i just bought everything for this damn tranny fluid change now this happens... all my fluids are in the back seat of my car so i added .5 quart of oil now the light is flickering but the oil is a little high? what the heck is going on here? please do not tell me i need a new motor
 

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first of all do not resurrect a 2 year old thread

second, does your car have the zetec or the sohc? (I assume zetec, right)

third, if the oil light is blinking or turns on at all, don't run the engine.

Maybe your oil pump died. Or something else happened. But if you run the engine for any length of time with low oil pressure your courting a rod bearing failure, and if that happens your engine turns from repairable or a rebuildable core to scrap metal.

Call around in the morning, find a garage, maybe they can tow it, or maybe you have AAA. Oil light red and a clunking noise from the engine is not something to fool with, and you can always take your stuff back to the store with your receipt.
 

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well i have been trying to post a new thread and cant find out how...
so yes im not running my car at all its crazy.. i believe the oil pump did die? but it looks like sludge in the oil so maybe just the screen is blocked would that cause the oil to not circulate?
the oil looked fine when i bought it 2 weeks ago now i look and im like wtf is this crap...

but yes i have a zetec motor

also im leaning more towards a pump gone? please tell me there is some hope if i just drop the pan and clean filter it would be ok?
 

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Not the way it works, if screen clogged then clogged from garbage from worn parts. They 99% of the time do not simply clog with no other effects.
 

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so your saying just replace the pump? No hope in just cleaning the screen?... i have to rip the whole motor apart.. not really looking foward to doing this. Might as well just bought a new motor.. the pump it self is 289.99 at my local store. i could get a motor same as mine with same miles for 150-200 just put it in..
 

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Worn oil pump with rest of motor in good shape is an old wives' tale. How can pump wear with motor not doing so? Think it out..........the pump gets the first and cleanest oil and oiled heavier than any other part.

Pump wears from trash coming from rest of motor--no trash, no wear. I often have reused pumps on rebuilt motors if the pump hard to get or too expensive, they will often be in very good shape inside. On the flipside, if motor is crap inside and lots of wear, then pump will be dead too. Pump worn out shows you quick what the rest of the motor will be like inside, as in the same way.

I watched person after person come in demanding the pump only, even when this explained to them, can't think of one who didn't come back saying problem was fixed by pump alone. They don't want to admit the errant thinking but apply the prybar and they said it didn't fix the problem. Had one dumba-s come in for 4 pumps, claiming all 4 were defective and warranty, we finally ran him off as a customer. Business can't afford people like that. He had done stupid things like that before. I bet he was good at removing and reinstalling oil pans though.

In many cases, pump not even bad, they buy it because of faulty thinking, more likely motor has worn enough to leak faster than a still serviceable pump can refill. Soft aluminum/copper bearings wear faster than the pump does.

Only way it could be pump alone is if light on solid and stays on, could be broken drive there. If light flickering on and off, more likely motor bearings have opened up to leak too fast, pump ain't gonna fix that, if so, then will last maybe a month and go back to doing it, or wasted time.
 

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but what im trying to get at... and if u read it u will get what im saying... ok listen please without trying to tell other stuff...i understand your point and yes i believe it 100% but before i got the car they guy did a oil change from a shop... not sure how they did it or what i have no idea. but when i looked in there. SLUDGE so what im trying to say is ... right now my oil light is on all the time.. i will not run my car

there for the pump is not working... the oil is not getting to the top of the motor ok?.

so what im asking is... since the oil is not getting to the top and considering the SLUDGE at the bottom of the pan would it clog the screen and stop the pump from circulating the oil. that is what i am trying to ask. so if i am correct then the pump would probley still be good considering the oil has not hit the pump and its clocked inside the screen and tube. get it? so oil light is on cause its clogged and not reaching the pump to get to the top of motor..... let me know your input
 

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About 15 years ago I had a motor rebuilt and had someone else do the in-and-out. (yes I know very stupid but I was desperate to have it done quickly) It had thrown a rod. I drove the car out of the garage with the new engine in it. 3 miles away the oil light is flickering and I drive it right back to the garage. They hadn't used my original oil pump they used some remanufactured piece of sheit. I read them the riot act on that one.

If you have sludge in the oil it quite often happens as a result of coolant leaking into the engine. Often coolant leaks come from a failed head gasket. Coolant doesen't lubricate bearings. Very likely this engine has had a flickering oil light for months and the prior owner drove it into the ground.

I personally believe you have a shot rod bearing. I have seen this before it is very typical. What happens is someone gets a minor coolant leak, they start losing coolant and don't know where it could be going they can't find any leaks. That's because the coolant is leaking into the oil then the water is evaporating leaving the additive package behind in the oil which forms sludge. This goes on for months and the oil/water/sludge mix wears the bearings out very rapidly. Then the bearing clearances get too big and the oil pump is no longer able to keep the pressure up at low RPMs so the oil light starts flickering at idle. Then with the lower oil pressure now not even the sludge/water/oil mix keeps the bearings lubricated, and the rod bearings hog out the fastest (because they have the most power running through them) and you start getting a bad thumping or knocking from the engine.

People who persist in running the engine in this condition merely succeed in pounding the rod end cap bolts right out of a rod and then the next thing that happens is that the end cap flies off and the rod flies off the crankshaft and gets rammed through the side of the block, destroying the block and bending the crankshaft.

In my case I lost a rod because the engine was a poor design, it had nothing to do with the coolant. It was too small oil passages drilled in the block, the rebuilder said it was a known issue.

In your case, you need to just find a replacement engine from a wrecker, they are not
that expensive.
 

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ok so how will i know if the motor is good or not?... thats my problem im not sure what im going to be doing now... i seen some today there all rust and stuff i really cant leave my car not done for a month till i can find a motor...
 

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I'm sorry but anything you can do to fix you car will:

1) take a lot of time
2) take a lot of money.

In the words of the immortal Monty Python, it is an "ex car"

if #1 and #2 are incompatible with your needs, then your only choice is to buy another car.

if you can park it and come back to it later, do so.

Some people have room in their lives for a project car. But not everyone does. Be realistic.
 
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