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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So back in January I bought some 5000K 55w DDM tuning HID ballasts/bulbs to eventually upgrade from my 35w kit. I bought the relay harness, but I was thinking...

How many people who have DDM Tuning 55w bulbs & ballasts actually use the relay harness? Is it really even needed, or is the stock wiring able to handle the initial draw?

If you use the harness, where the heck did you store the thing? It has a really long distance to travel from my right headlight to my battery, and I certainly don't want it to get caught on moving parts or melted by something hot. Regardless of what people answer, I'm probably going to use the relay harness since I paid for it, but I'm just interested in what everyone has to say. [wrenchin]
 

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Having background from electrial engineering I highly recommned to use the relays! :)
Better output & steady DC current.
Connect the relays directly to the battery terminal. Found helpful?
 

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Focal Distortion
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I'm using a relay kit on my car, but only for a 35w kit. I ran the wires along the front of the car behind the grill and zip tied it to an existing harness. Also ran it right off the battery.
 

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i'm using a relay kit on my car, but only for a 35w kit. I ran the wires along the front of the car behind the grill and zip tied it to an existing harness. Also ran it right off the battery.
x2!!
 

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the relay is the safest way. doesnt overload your stock harness and if your lights have ever flickered when the car is running but not when just on battery power this will fix it.

the car my have voltage stabilization and when a hid kit starts up it draws different voltage and current then switches over once ignited. with the relay the car will only see one voltage and current and thus not have to compensate.

a relay may run hot and you will get what you pay for. i hear a relay only plugs into one of the light pigtails leaving the other open. again if the car is equipped with a bulb indicator in the dash the unused harness may turn it on so some kits come with a resistor to correct that. this being a focus you may not have to worry about it.
 

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I have the 55w 8k DDMs and have for over a year now and have no relays or any additional wiring. The stock headlights run at 55w I was told. I've never had problem, no flickering or anything. My car reacts more to rolling down a window than turning my lights on. It's simple plug and play. Lights to ballast to preexisting headlight wiring.

EDIT: I was one of the first few to get these projectors/HIDs back in the day as far as I know. Most of us run it as I do and there has never really been a reported issue. This kit is meant to be true plug and play, don't over complicate it. PM me if you have any more questions.
 

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I have a VVME kit that I'd like to install (still) ... I've had it for months, but when I first got it I didn't know/couldn't figure out how to remove the headlights ... so I never installed it ... lol

Since then, I've done a lot of things to the little FoFo, including replacing the OEM headlights for tinted ones, so I'd love to finally install HIDs ...

Just how involved is the install on these cars ?



.
 

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Too involved if you don't have projectors. Cause it's illegal. Please don't put HIDs in stock headlights, even tinted. The scatter is ridiculous. Spend a lil extra and get projectors to focus it and put it down without blinding everyone else.
 

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ok since this is a semi recent hid thread im gonna thrtead jack it. my ddm d2s kit just showed up for my machs but im kinda confused on how to hook up their ballast with out the relay harness. theres 2 plugs on the ballast one is for the bulb and one is for power. the power one looks like this

is there a plug on the car that should plug into that or ami going to have to find a pigtail from the junkyard? help lol
also if it matters my car was never wired for machs this a a retrofit of sorts i got genuine hella housings and projectors but they came with no bulbs or ballasts
 

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pig tail or hard wire it in. sorry. nothing is ever pnp. you can get a pig tail from your ford dealer for ~$30 ea. or go to the junk yard and get a pair for $5. your dealer will have a wire connector catalog where they can match it up. just hope it isnt on back order.
 

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Too bad yours is not pnp, I second the idea of going to the junk yard for pigtails if you need them. My HID Nation kit was a direct plug in, worked great.
I'm no longer using them as I was just not happy with the light output in the stock housings. The kit was great though, H13 8K BiXenon, Paid $130 new. I'd sell the whole thing with relay harness for $100 shipped if anyone needs/wants it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I installed my 55w kit with the relay today, and had a trial by fire tonight. It was raining and I had about 40 miles to cover. All seemed like it was going great, until I stopped for coffee. When I came out of the shop, started the car, and then turned on the headlights, the bulbs fired, but then stayed dim/went out. I turned the switch to parking lights and then back to headlights, and then they ignited just fine.

...so for the rest of the drive I was being really careful and mindful of where the shoulder was, since I was preparing for the lights to either flicker or go out at any moment. Luckily they stayed on just fine all the way home.

So here's the deal. When I installed the new bulbs/ballasts/relay, this was the wiring flow:

1. Stock harness
2. Relay
3. Ballast
4. Bulb

The two circular tabs from the relay that connect to the battery weren't labelled positive/negative like the installation instructions said they would be, so I had to guess which was which. The tab connected directly to the included fuse is the one I attached to positive, and the other I attached to the negative. Both tabs have red wires, so I'm completely baffled as to which should go where.

Is it possible that my headlights would still work even if those two tabs from the relay were placed on the incorrect battery terminals?

I should also note that when I touched the second tab to the negative terminal, the bulbs lit up, but then immediately went out. I have a strange feeling that's not supposed to happen. It's just annoying that I bought the relay so that there would be no problems igniting the bulbs, and yet that's the only problem I had...

Yeesh. Any help/troubleshooting is appreciated!
 

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I use a relay harness on my 35W kit. As far as how mine is setup is Stock plug to Relay, Battery to Relay, Relay to Ballast, ballast to bulb. The relay has Two inputs for power, Main positive from battery and positive from stock plug to activate Lo/Hi beams relay.

My ballast is grounded individually.

As far as your last post, you connected it right. The Red fused is always positive. Even if you installed the polarity incorrectly it wont damage the ballast (only if its a newer style ballast). Many new ballast have reverse polarity protection. Also for the relay, if the polarity was backwards nothing will happen or work. No damage.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks - that at least makes me happy to know I installed it correctly. It just concerns me that the relay was installed to prevent an ignition problem, and yet I had an ignition problem!

Ah, well. It sounds like I'll just have to be careful for the next few times I drive at night until I work up enough confidence that it was a one-off event.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
But while I'm thinking of it, does anyone want to venture a guess as to why I had a failed ignition? I've tried it a few other times since then and it works fine, but I'm still not a 100% sure WHY that happened.
 

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Dude, I honestly don't know why it happened. Did you turn on/off/on your headlights while the bulb was warming up? Did you atleast do a 30 minute burn in time for the new HID bulb? Did you clean the HID bulb with alcohol pads before installing? Did you touch the bulb with bare fingers?


Thats all i can think of right now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dude, I honestly don't know why it happened. Did you turn on/off/on your headlights while the bulb was warming up? Did you atleast do a 30 minute burn in time for the new HID bulb? Did you clean the HID bulb with alcohol pads before installing? Did you touch the bulb with bare fingers?


Thats all i can think of right now...
  1. I always wait at minimum one minute before turning the bulbs back on after turning them off, to allow the salts to solidfy again.
  2. I'm supposed to do a 30 minute burn in for new bulbs?
  3. I didn't clean the bulbs with alcohol, but they came sealed in plastic
  4. I always wear nitrile gloves to prevent oils from my fingers from getting on the glass

Maybe because the bulbs are new I didn't wait long enough in between ignitions. It must have been a solid 5 minutes between the time I turned them off and then tried to turn them on again, but maybe they just weren't burnt in like you said? Not sure. I'll try them again tonight to see what I can find!
 

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  1. I always wait at minimum one minute before turning the bulbs back on after turning them off, to allow the salts to solidfy again.
  2. I'm supposed to do a 30 minute burn in for new bulbs?
  3. I didn't clean the bulbs with alcohol, but they came sealed in plastic
  4. I always wear nitrile gloves to prevent oils from my fingers from getting on the glass

Maybe because the bulbs are new I didn't wait long enough in between ignitions. It must have been a solid 5 minutes between the time I turned them off and then tried to turn them on again, but maybe they just weren't burnt in like you said? Not sure. I'll try them again tonight to see what I can find!
When I first got into HIDs, a lot of people told me with Brand New HID bulbs the first time turning them on you should let them run for atleast 10-30 minutes before turning them off. Why? I dont know. But I still do it anyways. Also, I always use my lights whenever I drive to allow my bulbs to reach full Burn-In (Achieve actual color) for atleast 150 Hours.

Why I asked about cleaning them is because you want to remove any dust, dirt, or oil from the bulb glass to prevent any immature failure. Even if they came in the best packaging, I still wiped them down with alcohol pads.


What jinstall posted, you may also want to look at your OEM headlight pins to check for dirt or corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Now I'm boggled. It's happened two more times where they failed to ignite. In one case I tried it a second time and it still didn't ignite. But then I turned off the radio and the fans/vents, tried it again, and they turned on no problem.


I'll still have to check the connections, but I HIGHLY doubt it's dirt or corrosion. I use bulb grease on everything, and my car is a 2011. It's not like the wiring is old...

Sigh...I will have to admit, I'm starting to like my 35w kit more...
 
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