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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I've got an 01 Focus and my dash lights just stopped working. Odometer light works, and the radio works. But the rest of the lights don't. If the key is on, the headlights work and the fog lights work but the tail lights do not. If I turn the key off then none of the lights work, even the headlights and there is no buzzer to alert me the lights were left on. The break lights work when the break is pushed and all blinkers work as well as revers lights. Just not the dash lights and the tail lights. I've checked all the fuses and they were fine. Anyone come across this or something similar? Thanks.

Mike
 

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Are you sure you checked all the fuses? In the past Ive had the same issue, and solved it with a blown fuse to the instrument cluster.
 

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Is it a hatch or wagon? Check the wiring harness between the gate and body for breaks. When your taillights go out the dashlights go too so you know you're invisible from behind.
Very common problem with that age of Focus.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Is it a hatch or wagon? Check the wiring harness between the gate and body for breaks. When your taillights go out the dashlights go too so you know you're invisible from behind.
Very common problem with that age of Focus.
^This
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's a 4 door sedan ZTS. I checked all the fuses that were associated with any lights with a multimeter to make sure they were good. I'm not sure what a gate is though. A couple weeks ago the dash lights didn't work when I turned the lights on, so I turned them off and back on and they worked. I didn't think anything of it until now. Guess I'll start in the trunk and work my way forward on the harnesses.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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There is a harness that passes through from the trunk lid/hatch into the body. Pull the boot back and inspect the wires for cracks/missing insulation. Many electrical gremlins arise from that one area.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
freemind, I had to cut away the rubber insulation, but I didn't see any wire cracked or damaged. They were all very pliable. I did see some bad corrosion on one of the license plate lights. I'll have to check that out tomorrow. I did find two wire harnesses on the left wheel well in the trunk. Unfortunately the wiring diagram I have doesn't show them, so I'll have to look at each color and determine what should be hot and see if my problem is before or after these harnesses. What a pain.
 

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Vince your Moderator
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Do you have a ZX3/5 or sedan?
 

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He said he was a 4 door sedan ZTS.

Have you had the tail lights out recently or anything? I know on my hatchback, I had a problem before of the wire getting pinched behind the assembly, and causing shorts.
 

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Ok, so I changed all the bulbs and nothing. Checked all the wiring and didn't find a single break. Like I said they were all pliable. I completely removed the license plate lights, cleaned all the corrosion and still nothing. I checked for voltage on the wires that should be hot coming from the switch to the tail lights and there was no voltage. I checked for voltage at the fuse box for the tail lights and there was voltage. So I moved on to the switch. I got voltage going to the switch with an org/blk wire as the wiring diagram says I should. But when you turn the switch on there should be voltage on the org/yel wire and the org/blk wire coming out but there is not. Org/yel go to the 7.5A fuse then down to the tail lights. The org/yel goes to the central timer module and the license plate lamps. Since there is no voltage coming from these wires when the switch is on, could it be a part of the switch is bad. The diagram shows two parts. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Little more info. I checked the brake pedal switch fuse. The fuse is fine, but at the fuse box, it's supposed to be hot all the time. It's not hot until I turn the key on. Then I get 12V; if I then turn the headlights on it drops to 11.8 or so.

I also checked the head light fuse for voltage. It should be hot all the time as well and is not. I get .342V or so. If I turn the head light switch on, I then get 12V. Doesn't matter if the key is on or not. So frustrating!!!!
 

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DTC P0606
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Ok, so I changed all the bulbs and nothing. Checked all the wiring and didn't find a single break. Like I said they were all pliable. I completely removed the license plate lights, cleaned all the corrosion and still nothing. I checked for voltage on the wires that should be hot coming from the switch to the tail lights and there was no voltage. I checked for voltage at the fuse box for the tail lights and there was voltage. So I moved on to the switch. I got voltage going to the switch with an org/blk wire as the wiring diagram says I should. But when you turn the switch on there should be voltage on the org/yel wire and the org/blk wire coming out but there is not. Org/yel go to the 7.5A fuse then down to the tail lights. The org/yel goes to the central timer module and the license plate lamps. Since there is no voltage coming from these wires when the switch is on, could it be a part of the switch is bad. The diagram shows two parts. Thanks.
Your diagnostic procedure is correct. You have no voltage with the switch in the on position as expectedd so that indicates the switch is faulty. Bypass by switch to test and supply 12V power directly to the wires orange/blk (outbound) for tailights and orange/yellow for license plate lamps.

btw, brake lights won't come on without ignition on. Headlight fuses won't get power until relays are energized.

Fairly confident your switch is kaput but test before replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bypassed the switch. I removed both wires from the plug and supplied 12V to each. When I applied the power to the license plate wire, org/yel, they worked and the lights on buzzer sounded. When I did the same for the tail lights, they worked as well. New switch is on order. Will replace tomorrow and let you know if it fixed the problem. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It was the switch. All lights work as they are supposed to now. Just wish I hadn't torn half the car apart looking for a short. [;)]
 

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Your diagnostic procedure is correct. You have no voltage with the switch in the on position as expectedd so that indicates the switch is faulty. Bypass by switch to test and supply 12V power directly to the wires orange/blk (outbound) for tailights and orange/yellow for license plate lamps.

btw, brake lights won't come on without ignition on. Headlight fuses won't get power until relays are energized.

Fairly confident your switch is kaput but test before replacing.
It’s definitely your dash switch
 
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