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May sound dumb but I think I wanna cut my steeda springs to get more low. Is that a really bad idea or would it be so so of any idea? It will only be till I can afford coil overs
 

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Once you cut springs there is no going back-think of re-sale value once you get the coil overs.
That being said the cutting of coil springs for lowering purposes has been going on for decades and somehow the world kept turning. I personally have done it for that extra bit of lowering. Would I recommend it? No-for legal reasons only!!!
 

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I say leave them..cutting is never recommended. Just wait for the coil overs to get your lows
 

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The only reasons not to cut them are it is hard to know how much lower you're likely go for a given cut, and if that lowering will work well with stock dampers. And or if the car will bottom fairly easily (also hard on dsmpers). Some of which depends on how low you wind up. Don't forget about suspension geometry or bump steer issues.

If you're willing to take your car apart a couple times and work in small increments, you can probably get where you want to be, but I'm old and not patient enough. All those suspension engineers have already done the work, and I'm happy enough to pay them for it...

The most important point, as referenced earlier, if you take too much off, you're toast!

Heating them with a torch is a no no.

I'd recommend living with it until you get coils. Best of luck whatever you choose!
 

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AND the ends of some are bent differently to fit the mounts. No Bueno when they won't fit.

Did anyone mention the SOFTER ride once cut?

You get lower, but there's LESS resistance to bottoming out while also having less travel to work with.
 

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AND the ends of some are bent differently to fit the mounts. No Bueno when they won't fit.

Did anyone mention the SOFTER ride once cut?

You get lower, but there's LESS resistance to bottoming out while also having less travel to work with.
Forgot about ends, definitely need to view those. IIRC, the 14 strut wouldn't lend itself well to funky ends.

I don't think the ride gets "softer" since I believe that cutting "active" coils off increases spring rate, but, because the rate increase will usually be small(ish), reduced travel with not enough spring rate means this is almost guaranteed: "there's LESS resistance to bottoming out"
 

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Aw go ahead and cut. Just keep the cut pieces. If the cutting doesn't work, that's what JB Weld is for. (Just kidding all).

Actually (guessing here) about 15 years ago there was a video circulating the net (BMW?) of someone who tried JB Weld on a control arm. I think they tried some track time in the vehicle in question. The JB Weld actually held. For awhile.
 

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Aw go ahead and cut. Just keep the cut pieces. If the cutting doesn't work, that's what JB Weld is for. (Just kidding all).

Actually (guessing here) about 15 years ago there was a video circulating the net (BMW?) of someone who tried JB Weld on a control arm. I think they tried some track time in the vehicle in question. The JB Weld actually held. For awhile.

Dont even give him the idea lol
 

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Dont even give him the idea lol
Worse, i've seen people riding with vise-grip on brakes lines (because of a leak)
 

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Worse, i've seen people riding with vise-grip on brakes lines (because of a leak)
As long as they JB Welded the vise-grips on the line, they'll be fine. [:)]
 

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Moved to "Brakes, Suspension & Chassis" for reference.
 
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