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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

My cruise control suddenly stopped working. Nothing happens when I try to turn it on. I've checked all the fuses and relays. They look fine. I've checked the brаkе pedal position switch. It works.
One thing that I've found out (and maybe that will give you an idea what could be the problem) is that when the gear box is in every position except park the brake lights are shining high all the time. It doesn't matter if I press the brake pedal or not (they are bright all the time). If the gear is in park position the break lights are working fine. It makes no difference if the headlights are 'OFF' or 'ON' on any of the 2 'ON' positions.

I hope someone had had the same problem before.
 

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There might be a problem with your hatch wiring umbilicle, in that the wires will break, short and what not and affect your cruise control because there is a short [or whatever] on your brake light circuit

The following is from another poster here and I included his handle

Cruise Control
By 6SPD_soul
I just had some issues with my CC and have sorted that out, but I found there is a really slick self diagnostic procedure for the cruise control. You don't need a diagnostic scanner to do this either, just the car. From what you describe I think the cruise control servo (motor with a spool of cable that controls the throttle body for CC) is bad, but this test will tell you for sure where the problem lies. This self diagnostic test will work on all Foci from 00-05, in addition to many other Ford models in those years.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.

So I guess try to run the test. It's pretty quick and easy once your thumbs get the button sequence down. Then you should at least have a better idea where the problem is coming from. Post back here with results, I'm curious where the problem is for you. Mine was the brake deactivation switch which I'm putting in soon.

Yeah, the above was my post and you should run the test, but there is a vehicle speed sensor that reads off of the transmission and is a crucial part of the cruise control. That would be the likely point of trouble if you just had the transmission replaced. Everything I wrote in parenthesis about the flashes was my interpretations and I can no longer alter the post, wheel speed sensors don't affect cruise control operation but a vehicle speed sensor would.

The cruise control servo sits at the back of the engine and is fairly protected, shouldn't have been affected unless somebody were reckless changing the transmission.

Do the self diagnostic and see what you get from it.
__________________
Check the switches attached to the brake pedal, and clutch pedal if you have a manual trans. Those switches commonly pop off sometimes for no apparent reason. I have seen it numerous times, so it is just something easy and quick to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

Thanks for the fast response.
I've checked the brake lights again and I've found out that the third brake light is not working at all. After I've opened it I saw that it is burned. I assume that it gave short.
I hope that this is the problem that cause the malfunction of the brake lights circuit and the cruise control.
I've purchased a new third brake light. After I'll install the new third brake light I'll post the result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi,

The third brake light is working OK but the problem with the side brake lights is still on.
I've changed the brake light switch and nothing change. I've checked the umbilical cord on the hatch and all the cables are OK. I've made the cruise control self diagnostic test and it showed 3 flashes so that means 'Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged'.
I can't check all the wires so I have to go to the dealer for that.
But I want to try one last thing to check 'the brake deactivation switch'.
Do someone know the position of this switch and how does it look like?
 

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Here's the thread where I originally wrote that self diagnostic writeup http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253080
Further down in the thread I made a longer post about how to access the pedal assembly and assorted switches, and how to identify them. That's bad news about the brake lights still not working, my problem was with the green brake deactivation switch and it didn't affect brake light functions at all so it's unlikely to just be a matter of replacing the switch
 

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Do any of you think that replacing my 3rd brake light to LED would cause this to happen also? I just replaced the stock bulbs with 2 10" LED strips, top and bottom of lens and now my Cruise won't work. I am going to try the test procedure as listed above, but I was wondering if anyone had experienced the same?
 

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Yes. LED lights do not generate the same resistance as "normal" bulbs do in the electrical circuit. It's been posted on FF before. Add a resistor to the brake circuit. Sorry, no idea what the value of the resistor(s) should be.
 

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Hmmm
I bet the cruise control senses current
A 12 watt light bulb on 12 volt requires 1 Amp , 24 watt=2 Amp. Also the resistance on an ordinary bulb cannot be measured cold because when current is applied the resistance goes up [Volts x Amps = Watts]
Measure the current, on an ordinary brake bulb using an ammeter section on a multimeter, the scale should be 10 Amps unfortunately this separates the $2 Harbor Freight special from more expensive meters.
Now measure the current from the LED light.
To increase the current you need to place a high wattage resistor in parallel with the LED light. Then you have to figure out a place to stick that resistor so it doesn't melt any plastic etc
You would be a glutton for punishment to go this route better to stick with OEM light bulb
 

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The oem bulb set up melts all the time a led set up would be safer if done correctly
If anyone figures out the resis. Let us all know thanks
 

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Your resistor should be 6 ohm. You can buy resistor "kit" at O'Reilly (found right next to their LED bulbs) with a high-wattage 6 ohm resistor, about 12 bucks each. There should be one in parallel with each brake light bulb replaced.

EDIT: And yes, the cruise DOES depend on proper brake circuit impedance. My educated guess is because of the cruise control cancel is activated by that circuit (when you touch the brake cruise control cancels).
 

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6 ohms assuming all available LEDs are the same resistance (not trying to be sarcastic, I don't know much about LEDs)? Are you basing this off a brake light for our generation of car?
 

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I've never understood (or much thought about) why the stop lamp would be tied into the system and not just rely entirely on the brake pedal position switch. I happen to have Alldata right now and here's some explanation from Ford:

"Stop Lamp Switch
If the brake pedal is tapped lightly while the speed control system is active, the actuator receives an input from the stop lamp switch. This causes the speed control actuator to close the throttle at a controlled rate. The system is put in stand by mode."

"Deactivator Switch
If the brake pedal is depressed rapidly while the speed control system is active, the speed control servo receives a input from the deactivator switch. This causes, the electromagnetic actuated coupling to disconnect from the stepper motor and deactivate. This allows the cable and throttle to close under throttle return spring control. The system is put in stand by mode."

So apparently they do it to make the transition between modes either feel seemless or immediate, if I'm interpreting that correctly.
 

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12v with a 3 amp bulb is about 4 ohms. LEDs run about 20 ohms, so a 6 ohm resistor in parallel with the LED will get you "close" to 4 ohms. Since 6 ohm high-watt resistors are easy to get (also used in HID light applications) it's "good enough" even if it came out a little bit off. I know 6 ohms work with my LED bulbs in my brake lights.
 

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Thanks to all posters, just installed a LED 3rd brake light (Orig. one was been working but cracked years ago) and noticed my Cruise no longer worked, went to eBay and ordered some resistors to try, just search for "12v LED resistor". Will post results when they come in and I install them.
 

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Do what I did and just add 1 single 194 peanut bulb into your 3rd break light housing and wrap it with electrical tape so it doesn't shine through the lens. That's what I did and the cruise worked like a champ.
 

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Hmm, cool idea, will try that, thanks! Will use the resistors on the turn signals if they ever blow or I feel like starting another problem.
 

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I replaced that 3rd brake light assembly (CHMSL center high mount stop lamp) and have all new bulbs in there.

Nothing. Cruise doesn't even turn on "ready"
 

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It's been inoperative for 6yrs because I'm a p*ssy!

I rewired mine for EDM tail lights (which also need 6ohms wired in to run euro bulb impedances or the housings get melty)... that's scared me out of trying to fix it. I also shorted to the frame trying to replace my recall-relays for the wipers; the horn stopped working that day. I stopped taking long trips because of this.

I might as well smash my face against this issue and post for all to see while I teach myself.
 
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