Focus Fanatics Forum banner

481 - 499 of 499 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
so i replaced the side chip as it was getting the hottest, applied new thermal paist and it was still doing the crackling, and so i went and applied thermal past on the out side of the unit case directly on the other side where the chip is. and mounted another heat sink using the oem screw. as shown in the photo. so far after doing this it has been working great. all day granted this is only day one. i do be leave just the radio chassis is not enough for this chip though.

the heat sink i put on is pulling a ton of heat from the chip. as can be seen with my temp gun.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
how long did it last ?

also what install kit did you use ?. and what would i need for the base mode radio install kit to retain steering wheel controls ?
I replaced the stock radio with another from a junkyard. I plugged it in to make sure worked, then put really good thermal paste on it and it's been perfect since (about 5 months).

I can't say about the install kits etc., but know there is am iDatalink Maestro kit that makes installing an aftermarket kit pretty painless from a wiring standpoint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
My replacement came a day early. I popped out the old radio, swapped plugs over to the new one, slid it in place and re-plugged the connector for the face panel and it started making AM radio buzz even before I put the key in :)

I reprogrammed my FM1 radio stations, linked my phone to the new radio and viola! I'm back in business. Played songs from my phone through Bluetooth audio also. Here's to hoping they'd figured out the issues with the radios by 2016.

One change to the software that I do like, they changed the curve of the digital volume control. So now it's about 1/2 what it used to be. No more trying to decide if "6" is too loud and "5" isn't quite loud enough. "11" is like "5.5" on the old radio. Combined with the volume compensation with speed and I likely won't be adjusting the volume much, tho I am also getting reacquainted with my steering wheel controls as I'm not afraid the radio will randomly malfunction.
Reporting back that my MY 2016 replacement radio is still working in my '13.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
will mine is out did not last 1 month i really think there is a bad component in the circutes some ware making the amp chips burn out, mine still gets hot but its 100% unusable to the point i have to keep the fuse out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I replaced the stock radio with another from a junkyard. I plugged it in to make sure worked, then put really good thermal paste on it and it's been perfect since (about 5 months).

I can't say about the install kits etc., but know there is am iDatalink Maestro kit that makes installing an aftermarket kit pretty painless from a wiring standpoint.
what thermal paste did you use and how is it doing so far ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
nullrout***




For those that are wanting to swap in a eBay radio here is the reference I used. Enjoy
something i noticed if you use a plug n play siriusxm radio. look at the antenna jack and compare that to the on on the radio, different connectors but same ports i thank and im going to try it in a bit that factory antenna will work on my plug in play, i have the base unit, and i thank the antenna is the sat radio antenna
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I noticed a few months ago while I was driving my radio would randomly just cut out and the entire radio would completely lock up. Before it cut out, it would make a horribly loud sound. Restarting the car would fix the problem. It starting happening more and more and now my radio is completely useless. Now there is a constant noise that sounds like whistling and crackling and it doesn't stop, even if the volume is down and the radio is off. Even turning off the car won't make the noise stop. When this is happening the entire radio locks up. I ended up just pulling the fuse so I don't lose my mind and my eardrums (the noise gets incredibly loud at random times). I plan on taking it to the dealer, but I just wanted some input from you guys. I managed to get a video so I can show the service department.
Here's the video:
Same issue as many others with radio malfunction. Two components inside the audio control module are prone to become excessively hot. When they overheat the radio malfunctions. Static, loud popping, controls don’t work. Appears to be a built in defect with a poorly engineered solution. Some engineer apparently “solved” the issue. The overheating components are clamped to the inside of the metal case and have a very thin layer of thermo conductive paste between the component and the case. I added heat sinks between the components and the clamps. I also added additional thermal conductive paste to the contact points inside the cabinet. 🤞
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
I replaced the stock radio with another from a junkyard. I plugged it in to make sure worked, then put really good thermal paste on it and it's been perfect since (about 5 months).

I can't say about the install kits etc., but know there is am iDatalink Maestro kit that makes installing an aftermarket kit pretty painless from a wiring standpoint.
WHERE did you put the thermal paste?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
WHERE did you put the thermal paste?
Thermal past goes between the component that gets hot (the amp chip) and the heatsink. It fills the small suface imperfections to help heat transfer. It would go bedind the two chips that look like the linked pic.
IC Chip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Just to note, I posted earlier that I did the thing with the thermal paste after doing a thermal scan of the unit. I did several experiments using a highly thermally conductive paste for ECUs and I even added a large aluminum plate to better spread the heat versus the steel chassis. It worked in the short term, but what I ended up learning is that ANY time I remove the radio from the car, it 'recovers' during the period it's not connected to the car. Eventually, the radio will start acting up again.

My best solution before I bought a newer (2016) version of the box was to install a switch to turn the power to the radio off when I shut the car off and was leaving the car for a while. Doing this, the radio always worked, albeit the radio forgets where it was and starts in "AM" radio mode. Worth the few seconds required to switch to FM.

Below is a picture of the place where I snipped out part of the connector and soldered wires that were connected to a switch. Any sort of switch works, I actually used a house light switch for a while.

305586


It's not an ideal solution, but it worked fine until I found a newer radio on Ebay and that's been working ever since (went from 2013 radio to 2016 radio, same basic P/N)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
i thank there is another component on the board that feeds that amp chip that may went bad, in return is pushing way too much power to it. i replaced the chip to have the 2nd go out with in a month. same way. i don't have another good working unit to test with and no schematics makes it harder. so if any one with more board level know how can look at it and they may be able to figure it out.

i replaced the thermal on the new chip i put on and it all melted away diffidently getting too hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
OK so you folks have definitely almost got this figured out IMO.
In my experience simply disconnecting the radio for a time DOES in fact somehow temporarily CURE the problem.
But the darn thing GETS SO HOT i am surprised it has not caused any FIRES in these cars. (Or maybe it has, ambitious ambulance chasers pay attention). And looking at the build of the radio it appears that IN FACT FOR KNEW ALL ALONG that htis was an issue and tried to cure it with the thermal paste and a slightly thinker aluminum plate!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Sellers on Ebay saying : “THEFT LOCK CODES & DEALER PROGRAMMING MAY BE REQUIRED TO FULLY FUNCTION,WE DO NOT PROVIDE ANY "

Has this been as issue for anyone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
No worry about the codes I think.

I swapped in a 2015 model into my 2013 and VOILA!!

THANKS everyone for the advice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have a 2015 Focus SE that has the crackling/popping noise, sound issues plus the screen in my car will sometimes freeze up. Aboug 72,000 miles. Any suggestions for the 2015 Focus issues?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Sorry: i spoke too soon!
The radio works of and on. No popping or crackling at least. It just silently shuts down and then restarts on its own a few minutes later. A whole different problem...HAS ANYONE else seen this behaviour?
 
481 - 499 of 499 Posts
Top