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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I had a couple of quick questions regarding the Cold Air Intake I just did for my '07 Focus with the 2.0 Duratec engine. The installation had a couple of snares, however I think everything came out well. The CAI is well supported, is not binding or rubing the two transmission lines that sit under it, and sounds amazing. When I went to first start it up, no CEL (Holy Crap!!), nothing abnormal about the idle, everything sounded good. While on my way home, I hit a couple stop signs/lights. For the first couple of stops, when I was fully stopped, the engine seemed to have a slight stutter at idle. Like the RPM's would drop, but then recover. When I would go to accelerate, nothing similiar would happen, and I even seemed to feel a seat of the pants change in acceleration. Felt pretty good. However, I did notice on one hill when I gave it some gas, up towards about 4250 RPM, it seemed like the engine hesitated for a split second, but recovered and shifted into O/D when I let off the gas slightly at the top of the hill like normal. Any other times, no hesitation of any sort. Get home, pull into my spot, go into Park, and let it sit. No idle jumping like before. Nice steady idle at the usual RPM. Even gave it gas a couple times; revved up, then came back down to normal idle. No idle jump.

Is this normal? All hoses were hooked back up that were unhooked (basically only the PCV breather hose), and the MAF sensor is in it's stock housing with the little white screen still in the bottom of it, and is pretty much in the same stock location except the housing is rotated slightly. Otherwise, same spot. No CEL, no stalling, nothing except what I mentioned above. I also plan on unhooking the battery tomorrow (Negative first, Positive Second) for about half an hour to reset the PCM. Then start the car and let it idle to operating temperature. Sound good? Thanks for any help!
 

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Moved to Duratec Performance Chat. Ford Focus Technical Chat is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls.

Thanks for posting!
 

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No, because purely and simply put, I was an idiot. That's why I was gonna do it tomorrow.


Meh, it happens. FYI, You only need to disconnect the negative side, and You only need to disconnect it for maybe 3 minutes, not 30. After You reconnect, start her up and let her sit for 6 minutes(the time it takes for the ECU to reset), and if You have the time, go take about a 50 mile mostly highway drive. You don't have to do that last step right away, but soon. This allows all faults on the ECU to reset as well, and allow any CELs to pop up, if any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Moved to Duratec Performance Chat. Ford Focus Technical Chat is for technical discussions relating to general maintenance, electrical issues, engine trouble, and recalls.

Thanks for posting!
My bad. I had wondered if I should've posted in the Duratec section since all the CAI threads were there, but I thought the technical section would be my best bet for the idle. Irregardless, thanks for putting this in the right section for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Meh, it happens. FYI, You only need to disconnect the negative side, and You only need to disconnect it for maybe 3 minutes, not 30. After You reconnect, start her up and let her sit for 6 minutes(the time it takes for the ECU to reset), and if You have the time, go take about a 50 mile mostly highway drive. You don't have to do that last step right away, but soon. This allows all faults on the ECU to reset as well, and allow any CELs to pop up, if any.
Ok, so just pop off the negative cable, let it sit for 3-5 minutes, reconnect, start, let run for 6 minutes, then take for a drive? I can't take a 50 mile drive off the bat, however a 25 mile drive (mostly highway) to and from my old man's house may be possible, and I will be going to visit family this weekend for my birthday about 3 hrs away. Will that do?

Also, by your suggestion of the proper ECU reset procedure, I take it the symptoms I am experiencing are normal for a car that hasn't been reset?
 

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Yeah, that's most likely what it is. The ECu can relearn to a small extent(some more so than others, I have found) the air/ fuel ratios, but not always well enough to keep a CEL from coming on. I'm sure a 3 hour trip will allow everything to reset properly, but until You run that 50 or so mile run, your car won't be able to read all of it's sensors and on-board diagnostics, which could come in handy should something crap out along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, that's most likely what it is. The ECu can relearn to a small extent(some more so than others, I have found) the air/ fuel ratios, but not always well enough to keep a CEL from coming on. I'm sure a 3 hour trip will allow everything to reset properly, but until You run that 50 or so mile run, your car won't be able to read all of it's sensors and on-board diagnostics, which could come in handy should something crap out along the way.
Thanks for the help and advice! I will then be sure to do the reset procedure tomorrow, and will either drive to my dad's house tomorrow or the day after, which is a 50 mile round trip with 95% being highway. No CEL yet, but I imagine the reset and test drive will be the real teller of the tale. Thanks again! Much appreciated!
 

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Depending on what CAI you went with, if its an oiled filter you may want to clean your maf afterward too. The auto stores sell a maf cleaner in an aerosol can. You just spray the sensor a few times and it will clean off any oil that might be on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So after reseting the ECU, everything seems to have smoothed out a little bit. However, at the occasional stop, I will still get some slight RPM jumping. Nothing drastic, but noticable. I have not taken that 50 mile drive yet, so I'm wondering if the ECU just hasn't had that final step to set its parameters. But, I did drive interstate 5 miles to get back home. No issues there, even above 4k rpm. Smooth as silk, angry as a caged tiger. I also considered the MAF sensor. I went to AutoZone to ask them if oil could have coated the MAF, and one of the salesmen said they were doubtful because they dont have that much oil on them. However, their advice has been questionable before. Thanks again for all the help everyone! I'll have to get some pics of my setup on here.
 

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When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter or spark plugs? Those both could explain the slight rpm jumping as well.


What CAI did you go with? I know on my FSWerks one that uses the ITG filter, I will clean the maf after cleaning and recharging the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter or spark plugs? Those both could explain the slight rpm jumping as well.


What CAI did you go with? I know on my FSWerks one that uses the ITG filter, I will clean the maf after cleaning and recharging the filter.
Spark plugs were replaced with AutoLite Platinums maybe 3 months ago. Triple checked the gap on each one. No issues when I changed them nor after, just old plugs a slightly lower fuel economy.

Fuel filter is another story. As far as I know, when my old man bought it a few years back, he didn't change it. Prob not a bad idea to change. But wouldn't this have been an issue prior to the CAI?

I went with a cutom built CAI using parts from AutoZone (Spectra):

1) I couldn't afford a $200+ kit. And I didnt want an ebay knock off.

2) Where I live, snow and rain are issues, and I needed a custom CAI that brought the filter up a little rather than right behind the splash gaurd.

I retained the stock MAF housing and only modified the ends to accept Spectra couplers. The MAF stayed pretty much in the same spot. I know the filter comes pre-oiled, so maybe production lines just spray oil like no tomorrow, the MAF just needs cleaned off?

So I guess this is my list:

Clean MAF sensor (I imagine I can just unscrew it from it's location without dismanteling my CAI?)

Replace fuel filter.

Take for the 50 mile 'Reset' drive.

Any other ideas or advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Also, I don't know if it matters, but I did not reinstall the Hydrocarbon Trap because I didn't have a port to stick it in, and also I wasn't for sure if it could even just be put in an open bend considering it was in its own little section of the stock resonator.

This really has my brained wrapped. If I kept the MAF sensor in the same basic location WITH its stock housing AND the little screen in the bottom, then what could be causing this? Isn't that the only sensor that can be in play here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Uh, I dont know what's causing it, but it seems theres a technical error everytime I try to post now. It even says on my screen my last post at 3 pm, when I posted just a little while ago. If ya'll don't see post number 14, this is what it says:

Post #14

"Also, I don't know if it matters, but I did not reinstall the Hydrocarbon Trap because I didn't have a port to stick it in, and also I wasn't for sure if it could even just be put in an open bend considering it was in its own little section of the stock resonator.

This really has my brained wrapped. If I kept the MAF sensor in the same basic location WITH its stock housing AND the little screen in the bottom, then what could be causing this? Isn't that the only sensor that can be in play here?"
 

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Since your custom CAI is shorter, that does put the filter closer to the maf. So that could increase the chance of some oil getting on the maf. The maf cleaner is like 5 bucks a can, so that would be a good start, imo. I havent used Spectra filters, so no idea if they come heavily oiled or not. Here is a how to clean the maf. They give you two options; one with the spray cleaner and the second with isopropyl alcohol. Our mafs will look different than whats in the how to though. The spray I bought says maf cleaner on it but its probably the same as the electronic cleaner

Yes, you should be able to remove the maf fairly easily. Just disconnect the plug going into it and then unscrew the two hex's. Just be sure to not over tighten them when you put it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Since your custom CAI is shorter, that does put the filter closer to the maf. So that could increase the chance of some oil getting on the maf. The maf cleaner is like 5 bucks a can, so that would be a good start, imo. I havent used Spectra filters, so no idea if they come heavily oiled or not. Here is a how to clean the maf. They give you two options; one with the spray cleaner and the second with isopropyl alcohol. Our mafs will look different than whats in the how to though. The spray I bought says maf cleaner on it but its probably the same as the electronic cleaner

Yes, you should be able to remove the maf fairly easily. Just disconnect the plug going into it and then unscrew the two hex's. Just be sure to not over tighten them when you put it back on.

Well, bad news. I cleaned the MAF with liberal amounts of proper cleaner, was very careful spraying the wires, and let dry for a good 20 minutes. I still have this same issue. When the engine is cold, there's no problem. It will idle with no jumping. As soon as it reaches operating temp, it does the idle jump. But doesn't do it any other time. Acceleration is crisp, when I slow down, the RPM's just slowly go down like normal with no jumping. It's only at idle. No CEL, which I guess eliminates a misfire. I'm at a loss. I'm going to replace the fuel filter today and see if that does anything. I'll also post up some pics of my setup as well as a video showing ya'll whats going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So much for the video. My phone has proven that it fails at recording any type of video. The best way I can entirely describe the issue is this:

1) While cold and warming up, in open loop mode, there seems to be no rpm jump. Not at idle, not while driving, nothing.

2) When the engine is warm, and enters closed loop mode, thats where the jump seems to start. And it is only at idle.

3) When I say jump, I mean the RPM's while drop from normal idle RPM down sometimes as low as the next white line, other times just a slight movement. The jump is worst while in Reverse or Drive, and you can feel the car jerk as the engine recovers. In Park, the jump isn't as bad. The needle doesn't move as much, and the car doesn't jerk, but you can still hear the engine, basically what sounds to me like it's skipping a beat.

Here are the pics of my setup. I am yet to find any loose connections or wires that may be causing this. And don't flame too much. I know it isn't a top dollar CAI from a name brand company, but I have taken every possible precaution in doing my own CAI, and it seems to work. Def sounds better, and take off/acceleration are improved. I used the stock mount with a spacer to insure there will be no severe vibration or bouncing, especially because the filter is close to the tranny cooler lines. There is a small amount of space between said cooler line and filter, however for added assurance I did wrap (not too tightly though) some conduit around the tranny cooler line to prevent any possible rubbing.







I guess I'll post back later what happens when the fuel filter is replaced. I am still hopeful this can be fixed.
 

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I've been reading on my Alldatadyi subscription about those same symptoms and it sounds like it could be the IAC- Idle Air Control valve .

It seems that once you get up to normal driving temps , that there is a shutter type effect then it clears up and then maybe a little further down the road it has the same symptoms ?
 

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Well, bad news. I cleaned the MAF with liberal amounts of proper cleaner, was very careful spraying the wires, and let dry for a good 20 minutes. I still have this same issue. When the engine is cold, there's no problem. It will idle with no jumping. As soon as it reaches operating temp, it does the idle jump. But doesn't do it any other time. Acceleration is crisp, when I slow down, the RPM's just slowly go down like normal with no jumping. It's only at idle. No CEL, which I guess eliminates a misfire. I'm at a loss. I'm going to replace the fuel filter today and see if that does anything. I'll also post up some pics of my setup as well as a video showing ya'll whats going on.
bummer, i was really hoping it would be something that simple for you...
 
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