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Discussion Starter #1
I changed my daughters passenger side motor mount Sunday. The rubber piece came apart in 2 pieces.

In putting the new mount on I realized there is some adjustment in the mounting bracket. How do I correctly align the mount?

The reason why I ask is now my daughter reports that occasionaly when at a light and she puts her foot down to go the transmission (automatic) won't engage (lockup). my first thought is that the mount is placing additional tension on the t/c.

Another question that has me worried is that the rubber mount only fits to the mount bracket by bending 2 rubber tabs around it. Is this correct? I read in numerous how-to's that there should be 2 bolts holding the rubber part to the bracket.

I aslo only changed the passenger side mount could the tansmission amd torque mounts cause the transmission to not lock up? There is still some vibration in the car so I assume the other mounts need replacing but before I do this I would like to make sure the one I replaced in in correct alignment.
 

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i would drive it myself to see whats up. i have had people tell me the car won't move well and revs a bit at a stop light trying to take off and the persons a 2 foot auto driver and not taking there foot completely off the brake before trying to go.

and how old is the fluid in the trans, could need replacing (ever 40k i beleive)
 

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i would drive it myself to see whats up. i have had people tell me the car won't move well and revs a bit at a stop light trying to take off and the persons a 2 foot auto driver and not taking there foot completely off the brake before trying to go.

and how old is the fluid in the trans, could need replacing (ever 40k i beleive)
30k for the tranny fluid and filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's not the tranny fluid. It was changed 15K ago when the ATX needed a new first gear as it had shattered. Fluid still looks bright red.

I really want to know how you align the motor mount, especially on the passenger side. I just went out there again and with the jack holding the weight of the engine I can move the mount back and forward and side to side quite a bit when I loosend the 3 bolts.
 

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30k for the tranny fluid and filter.
40k km or 30k miles.


anyways, how did you destroy 1st gear? maybe who ever installed the new gear didn't set up the clutch packs/bands, ect correctly leave a bit of a gap?


i have had all my mounts off multiple times each time i just bolted them back down. then loosened them slightly started the engine let it run for a bit and tighten them where ever they settled.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Same deal. She was sitting at a red light pressed the gas to go and the vehicle wouldn't move. It did throw some codes (can't remember which ones).

We had it fixed at a Transmission Shop in town which is reputable. This was about a year ago.

So you don't think the alignment of the motor mount I put in has anything to do with the transmission not engaging?

I just went out and shifted the motor mount back towards the firewall and out further to the rhs - to see if the issue goes a way.
 

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i dont see how it would since the trans/engine are mounted together and will move as one.

as for the gear did they say what cause it to fail?

usually things like that don't fail unless abused. (assuming the gear is what went and not a shift solenoid).

does it do the same thing in D as it does in 1st?

throwing a CEL now?
 

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I'm sorry I don't personally know how to align the motor mount. FYI: If we'd advised you, our experiences with the Anchor front engine mount have been mostly not good. If you got a solid mount- you'll be ok. It would be denoted by an "S" behind the part number. Their hydraulic filled mounts do not last as long as the Motorcraft mounts. Some have gone out as quickly as 2 weeks. If yours goes out that quickly I highly suggest that you contact the company for a warranty replacement. They should stand behind their product, and also be interested improving the product. We can only hope so. Another advisement we'd have given you was to replace all 3 mounts in the same repair- not at the same moment of course, but it's been our experiences that when you replace one bad mount, that puts strain on the other 2 mounts that are mostly bad, causing them to go bad as well. On that note, we've had no problems with the other 2 Anchor mounts. Unfortunately, Anchor is the only aftermarket OEM manufacturer that makes these mounts unless you want high performance (and high $$) polyurethane mounts.

We need to know those DTC codes. That might have to do with the transmission. It is extremely possible that you're experiencing the "evil coincidence".

The only thing the motor mount is going to affect is the shifter linkage, so check that. I'm sure you've already checked the fluid level as that is typically what causes pausing in shifts. Another thought is that a wire might've been loosened on the valve body when changing the filter. I would've expected to see that immediately or within the first week or so of driving, so that's a wild assumption there. I would check to see if perhaps the transmission behaves differently in 1 instead of D- that would help verify if you have a shifter cable issue due to the motor mount- or changing the motor mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did agree with Mike_Mac that the mount should not effect the motor/transmission. But.... I did the following:

I moved the mount as far back and out to the right of the car as I could. I couldn't back the car out of the garage. As soon as I put the car in reverse it stalled. So I pushed the mount as far forward and intowards the engine as I could. I did manage to get the car in reverse put as soon as I gave it gas it would stall. So I put the mount in mid position for back to front and left to right. I could back the car out of the garage now. On my driveway I went back and forth about ten times. It went forward in D ok but in reverse it stalled on 3 out of the ten times.

So it seems to me that alignment of the mount is doing something.

I will change the other two mounts this weekend as the dash is still vibrating.

From what I have read in this forum I believe you don't think the mount and transmission problem are related but I did read that bad mount s will put a strain on other components. So what are those components? Transmission?
 

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Will the car roll in N with the mount pushed all the way to the rear?

I have a factory service manual, and there is no mention of aligning the front engine mount. It simply says remove the bolts, remove the mount, installation is the reverse of removal.

It is nice to know that some people might be experiencing AT problems with Anchor front mounts. I think you're sliding it back so far that the driver's side axle is hitting part of the differential that doesn't move. That's why I wondered if it would roll in N.

Have you considered checking torque on the transmission to engine bolts? I'd start at the bottom to see if it was tight. You might need to jack up on the engine slightly like you've been doing to take those out of a bind if they are in a bind.
 

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The Mount position SHOULDN'T effect the shift cable, BUT if it's mis-routed, OR hung up where it shouldn't be, Moving the engine WILL effect shifting....

Check the trans. shift cable adjustment & routing, holders etc. CLOSELY, as the engine is SUPPOSED top be able to move "normally" without effecting shifting....

Luck!
 

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to align the mount correctly you need to do the following: (i've removed this mount 4 times now)

When you jack the engine up from the oil pan to remove the mount, put on the part of the mount that bolts to the engine (you MUST use a high torque thread lock glue, its red, on the bolts)

then with the bolts in and only slightly tightened, you must jack up the engine some more until the bolt holes align with the holes in the body of the car... screw them in... torque all bolts to spec.. lower engine .. torque bolts AGAIN

This is the right procedure.

btw .. torque specs for the engine bolts is 60 ft-Ibs .. body bolts is 35 ft-Ibs
 
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Discussion Starter #15
oblivion2kx,

That's exactly how I put the mount back on. But the part of the mount that screws to the body has 3 elongated holes and that mount can shift about an inch back and an inch forward. Plus it can go, not as much, side to side.

Anyone who knows about ATX's reason why it is stalling when I reverse versus it seems to drive ok forward? I know it is not completely kosher going forward as it was the stalling at red lights/stop signs that got my daughters notice in the first place.
 

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The elongated holes are to allows for variances in manufacturing the body, which isn't as precise as the machined parts of the engine. Heck even the rubber mounts aren't exactly "precision" pieces, so you need some adjustment room SOMEWHERE....

As a prev. post mentioned, you hook up the "hard points" (engine & trans. sides of mounts ) FIRST - then let the whole assy. settle in to a "natural" position, THEN tighten the body side of the mounts. All this is to let them sit in a "neutral" position to start with, not "preloaded" in any one direction. With the factory soft mounts this allows the engine to vibrate without passing much on to the body....

Now, as to the "stalling" issue, the first system I would check when this happens ASSUMING the tranny isn't operating strangely (like slamming into gear) would be the IAC (Idle Air Control) - since this is a common problem area.

Checking actual rpm using the odometer gauge function is the easiest way to get real numbers to know what is happening.

Engine should idle high on initial cold startup, then drop down to a normal idle rpm as it warms. This is a "gross" function of the IAC, and MAY work even when the IAC is no longer able to make "fine" adjustments - BUT it's a first check. The next function of the IAC is to bump up idle speed whenever there is an additional load on the engine. The Focus is quite sophisticated in this regard, since it bumps up the throttle setting to maintain a consistent idle speed for automatic trans. engagement, variations in alternator load, and even higher loads from the power steering pump.

If idle does NOT remain stable during any of these activities, you've diagnosed the problem system, and we can give advice on repair...

Luck!
 

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I hate to tell you this... but you need to dump that Anchor mount and get Ford OEM mount which will fit precisely.
I don't see Anchor going back to re-engineer their mounts, because to the best of my knowledge, 2004 was the last year of the hydraulic mount [correct me if I am wrong] and why should they spend engineering money on a dwindling fleet of cars?

Very likely, there is something else wrong and this mount is a coincidence or added to the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I will check out the IAC and make sure the shift cable is not mis routed this weekend.

But Sailor did mention something about the tranny slamming into gear and this has always been the case with this car. What's the diagnose here for hard slamming in reverse and maybe drive (can't remember).
 

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Slammin'

I will check out the IAC and make sure the shift cable is not mis routed this weekend.

But Sailor did mention something about the tranny slamming into gear and this has always been the case with this car. What's the diagnose here for hard slamming in reverse and maybe drive (can't remember).
ONE possibility is too high an idle speed, so you are right back to the IAC checks to see what's going on, B4 guessing at other possible issues....

Luck!

[cheers]

P.S. - Other possibilities are more esoteric (and expensive)...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Not sure if I should start a new thread here but here goes...

I did what Sailor asked about the IAC checks.
1. when cold rpm around 1200-1400
2. then drops to 730-780 when warm
3. switch a/c and rear demister on and rpm seems to drop for a brief instant but remains at 730-780 ( I would have expected it to idle higher but I guess the load is not that significant)
4. Switch off a/c and rear demister and engine rpm increases for a brief second and then drops to 730-780 range.

I am asuming this is normal so I have a decent OBD2 meter and it has a KOER test which it can run. Results are:

P1464 - A/c demand out of self-test(ST) range - this might be due to a/c being on during test. I need to rerun this with a/c off. But a/c does work ok.
P1550 Power steering pressure sensor out of selftest range
P1703 Brake Sw out of ST range - need to check brake lights are ok
Now for the biggy:
P1780 - Transmission Control sw (O/D cancel) circuit out of self test range.

This link http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech/426113-all-dtc-ford.html
says the TCS has to be cycled during the test. How do I do that?

So to sum up my situation:
- IAC tests seem to be ok.
- Put car in drive - it moves but will stall ocasionally
- Put car in reverse now and it will stall immediately or move a few feet and stall.
- Even when car is warmed up, a/c is on and transmission in P, I hear the engine "surge" sometimes. Rpm doesn't seem to change when this happens - much.
- With engine just idling I do feel a vibration through the steering wheel - not as bad as when the transmission is in R or D.
- And of course the result of the KOER tests above.
 
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